bi22le
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| posted on 12/12/22 at 03:10 PM |
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Decent full chassis back rebuild blogs
If I do what I want to then its going to be a full back to chassis rebuild. . .
So, does anyone have any decent links to blog where a used se7en is stripped all of the way back to the are chassis and back up again? Key things I am
interested in:
- How to clear out the old revet backs
- Tricks on cleaning off the old ali-panel mastic bonding
- Did they get the whole chassis sand blasted and re painted?
- What modifications should be done; Bushes, full cage, prop catcher, seat rail mounts, ARBs (On a RAW Striker)
- Other tips and tricks.
I am open to advice from individuals. Also I would consider buying an unfinished striker chassis is someone has one. New unused only.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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nick205
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| posted on 12/12/22 at 04:20 PM |
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Not something I've done or can point you towards.
WRT to removing the old rivet backs, short of either...
1. An open ended chassis tube and tipping them out or
2. Cutting into chassis tubes to retrieve them and welding the chassis tubes closed again
...I'm not sure how you'd get them out.
I'd be inclinded to stick a dose of cavity wax in the chassis tubes and (with a friend) lift and roll the chassis around. That would stop the
old rivet backs from sliding around and rattling.
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bi22le
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| posted on 12/12/22 at 04:49 PM |
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Regarding rivet heads, I asked the question on another forum (I won't mention it as this is the best forum 😂 they suggested drilling
a decent sized hole at one end and from the furthest rivet hole feed in compressed air. Weld up the big hole after all of the ends have come out.
I guess I would have to tap up all of the other holes. Also I wonder if I could connect up some thin tube to a can of air duster and just feed in a
long length. . .
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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obfripper
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| posted on 12/12/22 at 05:53 PM |
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I can't help you with any specific links, but refloored my striker about 15 years ago.
I didn't remove the old rivets, tbh i have never heard anything from them but did waxoyl the box section while the floor was removed so
they're likely all stuck to the inside of the box section.
If you're considering a full chassis removal/sandblasting then a 10mm hole in the end of every section that is capped off (probably 5-7 holes)
combined with compressed air should help to remove them, then just weld up the holes after sandblasting as the chassis will fill up with sand that
you'll need to get out as well.
A sharp chisel will peel off a large proportion of the mastic/silicon/pu adhesive, but you may well find that the powdercoat comes off with the floor
panel anyway as that seems to be the way.
A knotwheel on a grinder will remove any residue pretty effectively without removing metal (you need full ppe for this!), roloc strip and clean type
discs also work ok but you will get through quite a lot of discs as they tend to clag up with powdercoat.
I used the old floor panels to drill the holes into the new panels to get the holes pretty close, i also increased the rivet size to 4.8mm so it
didn't need to be spot on first time, and used flange headed rivets as the originals had standard heads that had fretted through the floor
panel.
I then dry fitted the floor with skin pins and drilled to the new rivet size, and deburred/prepped/primed all the box/floor faces to be bonded, and
did a couple test rivets to see how much the pu adhesive would squish and how many operations the air riveter would need to pop the rivets.
Once everything was ready, i applied the pu to the chassis and placed the rivets with a small amount of pu under each rivet head to keep them in
place, once the panel was aligned with a handful of rivets i then held it up with a couple blocks/wedges and placed the rest. With all rivets in place
i worked centre outward with a single riveter operation pass, then did a second pass popping all rivets, just leaving cleanup of the excess pu.
This is definately easier with the chassis removed, but i was only concerned with the droopy floor that could be felt while driving so did this with
the car on axle stands which was hard work even with an air riveter.
If you're going with the full chassis refurb, it's worth keeping all the old panels for template use for both the panel sizing and hole
location to not have to drill more holes than already present.
I would get all the panels and modifications dry fitted and ready before powdercoating is done to get the best out of it, mods after the chassis is
cosmetically finished are a pita.
Dave
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obfripper
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| posted on 12/12/22 at 08:50 PM |
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There is a couple pics here, and threads linked from the pics, might help with the arb, also look up Rob Farley on here and the SSC site, he used to
make an arb kit that fitted all the inboard sprung Sylva designs.
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/photos.php?action=gal&user=lsdweb&folder=Striker
Dave
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peter030371
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| posted on 13/12/22 at 12:55 PM |
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I purchased my current striker already stripped and part rebuilt. Rather than type it all in again the advert with lots of details and pictures is
still on this site https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=185628
The old rivets are still in the chassis and have never been a problem. The holes were all welded up after the chassis was stripped prior to re-powde
coating and I then fitted all new ali/carbon panels with new holes rather than try and match the existing holes.
I have loads more pictures of it if you want them for inspiration/ideas. Maybe send me your email address and I can send a dropbox (or something like
that) link to you?
Mods I would consider are full roll protection if you are going to track it at any point. Twin brake cylinder setup if you don't have one.
Consider going for rose joints if more track than road work expected, allows the springs and dampers to fully control the car and not some aging
rubber bushes do half the work.
I also have a Rob Farley Striker front ARB setup sitting on a shelf some place. It won't fit on my car as the engine is to big/far forward  If
you want it then I can check what I paid (got it off here I think) and would be happy to let it go for the same price?
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bi22le
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| posted on 14/12/22 at 12:28 AM |
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Thanks all for your links and advice. This is super.
I have an early track day next year and then I'll start the strip down. I think I'll just keep on going deeper into a strip down until I
feel I have done enough.
The (Nice I guess) problem is that I have brands GP booked in July '23 giving me only 5 months or so. I'm not a fast worker as I don't
have much personal time so I may do basic strip back and check, then plan what I want to do.
It's mainly track and a full cage is high on the list. I also want to be careful with how much I spend as I also want to get an engine rebuild,
gearbox refurb and new diff.
Not much then! I'm kinda thinking it's easier and quicker to just buy another car and sell this but if I do what I want to do then it will
end up a £12k+ car for about £9k.
Track days ARE the best thing since sliced bread, until I get a supercharger that is!
Please read my ring story:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/forum/13/viewthread.php?tid=139152&page=1
Me doing a sub 56sec lap around Brands Indy. I need a geo set up! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHksfvIGB3I
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peter030371
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| posted on 14/12/22 at 08:01 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by bi22le
Thanks all for your links and advice. This is super.
I have an early track day next year and then I'll start the strip down. I think I'll just keep on going deeper into a strip down until I
feel I have done enough.
The (Nice I guess) problem is that I have brands GP booked in July '23 giving me only 5 months or so. I'm not a fast worker as I don't
have much personal time so I may do basic strip back and check, then plan what I want to do.
It's mainly track and a full cage is high on the list. I also want to be careful with how much I spend as I also want to get an engine rebuild,
gearbox refurb and new diff.
Not much then! I'm kinda thinking it's easier and quicker to just buy another car and sell this but if I do what I want to do then it will
end up a £12k+ car for about £9k.
I went through many of the same thoughts you are going through. I had a working Striker but wanted to change many things. In the end the kit I now
have came up for sale at the right time so I started with that and sold my old Striker. By starting with a complete stripped down car I was able to
add all sorts that I wanted such as fuel injection, ECU linked to digital dash/data logger, better brakes, more power (always more power), better
gearbox and a lighter car at the end.
I built the car with the idea of upgrading the engine further another (winters) day but life has got in the way of that even though I have the head
and cams to take it to circa 220bhp from the current 190 (plus a slightly higher rev range for a little more speed). 2023 might well be my last year
of Striker ownership after having owned them continuously for over 25 years. Things change and I want to do other things but building the current car
was hugely enjoyable and loved doing it to the spec I wanted 
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JimSpencer
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| posted on 14/12/22 at 08:59 AM |
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Hi
I think most of it's covered above, but just in case it helps..
When I rebuilt mine (for the 2nd time..) we did the 'bare chassis' - I did the '10mm hole' for the sand (and as many of the rivet
heads as would play!), which we filled after blasting, but didn't weld and drill the rivet holes, just used the old panels as templates along
with a bit of 'brass rubbing' to create drill patterns as required, worked fine.
Ideal time to do the full cage while it's stripped, I can recommend Cougar Engineering at Redditch, Nigel's done several Strikers, pics in
my archive of the car before and after, NTDWM other than a happy punter.
Prop catcher is very sensible while it's in bits.
If you've not already done the, well known, '12mm to half inch suspension mount mods' now's the time too!
I'd suggest gusseting the steering rack mounts (the standard ones can flex) while its bare.
I'd suggest the ARB is a must..
Oddly I wouldn't bother with seat rails, as it means the seat is higher.? I'd mount it straight onto the floor, I'd go for a seat
insert if you swap with another driver (my brother and I do this at events, works fine)
HTH
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nick205
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| posted on 14/12/22 at 11:57 AM |
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^^^
Ditto to JimSpencer's comment on not adding seat rails. When I built my MK Indy I made 15mm steel frames and mounted my seats with those to the
floor. I'm 5'11" so not tall, but wanted the seats as low as possible in the car. I set the drivers seat position right for me to
reach the pedals (only me driving the car). It meant that with a helmet on the roll bar was still above my head.
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