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AGM and the WLR is back
StuartBJ - 6/3/16 at 04:10 PM

Gents,

For all of you who wanted to build or are currently building an AGM WLR you are now in luck as AGM has been bought out and is under new management.

http://www.agmsportscarsltd.co.uk

Contact me for further details

[Edited on 6/3/16 by StuartBJ]

Ugg10 - 6/3/16 at 05:34 PM

Batman goes to le mans! Would love one of these with an ls1 in it! Good luck with the new venture.

[Edited on 6/3/16 by Ugg10]

[Edited on 6/3/16 by Ugg10]

JacksAvon - 6/3/16 at 08:59 PM

Good luck.

It was always to good looking a car to fade away

StuartBJ - 6/3/16 at 09:15 PM

Thanks guys. We will try to do it justice We already have our premises and a demo car in progress. Just looking for a good fibreglass company or to train some staff in house..... Suggestions welcome.

We've got every mould we know of for the WLR even

- the gull wing moulds
- windscreen moulds
- both the left and right hand dash boards moulds

Spares for cars won't be a problem.

Ugg10 - 7/3/16 at 08:55 AM

Is going to a stock/preferred engine ?

I know a number were made with cossy engines (now becoming harder to find), I think there was one with a ford 302. I guess BMW engines would be easiest to source and have everything from i4 through to v12 but I guess M3 straight 6 would be best suited. However, my choice would be the TVR AJP8 engine in this giving it the race bred engine note to suit the looks.

nick205 - 7/3/16 at 03:02 PM

Great looking car - best of luck with it!

PeterV - 7/3/16 at 07:35 PM

It's good to be back in "current model" status Good Luck

sandhu - 15/6/16 at 06:25 PM

can you tel the suspension set camber, toe, ride height for cosworth agm wlr
thanks

PeterV - 16/6/16 at 10:32 AM

quote:
Originally posted by sandhu
can you tel the suspension set camber, toe, ride height for cosworth agm wlr
thanks


Here is the set up I'm happy with after 3 years road and track testing...

Camber 0.75 Degrees Negative both sides

Caster 3.25 positive (this takes some work because its not adjustable without shims and changes to the mounts)

Ride height for road (and ferry crossing) use 90mm from bottom of front splitter to road surface. I found making the rear end ride height 10mm higher than the front gives the bodywork a greater angle of attack and helps with high speed steering stability.

Suspension damping 5 clicks front and 8 at the rear. But this may depend on tire pressure choice, I run slightly lower pressures for a slightly more forgiving ride. Don't go to low though coz the bodywork and aeros do create down force and at high speed (100MPH+) lower pressures will start to move around.

Watch out for the rear end toe as the chassis is not guaranteed to be square. I started with a horrible squirmy 2.75 degrees toe in at the rear with odd +1 camber near side and -0.5 on the off side. Shimmed and adjusted the whole rear to neutral 0 toe and 0 camber which made violent braking far more stable and it stopped hard acceleration (@ anything above 300BHP) rear wheel steering the car. At around 400BHP from a standing start I could swap ends and find myself gazing into the eyes of shocked on coming drivers. So pay close attention to the rear end set up!

Also make sure you have steel front camber adjusters, as the alloy ones will sheer eventually. My nearside sheared whilst hounding a Porsche through some rough country lanes. Exciting! New pants and steel adjusters were ordered immediately along with sets of half nuts to use as lock nuts.

Dick Axtell - 16/6/16 at 03:11 PM

Quote -"At around 400BHP from a standing start I could swap ends and find myself gazing into the eyes of shocked on coming drivers. So pay close attention to the rear end set up!". - Unquote.

I recall an I. Mech. E. paper presented by Harry Grylls (RR Tech Director), entitled - "Traction vs Stability". Might be worth a read.

sandhu - 16/6/16 at 06:06 PM

thanks for the relpy
i will try setting
as i still have not had sump lowered , think i ll make it over speed humps ?
what tyre presssures would suit track /road ?


still waiting for date with them !!!

thanks again

PeterV - 20/6/16 at 11:09 AM

Tack PSI is down to you and the track. Swapping to slicks changes everything.

For the road my set up is
Tire size---------------------Wheel Size----------------------PSI------- Wheel Spacer
225/40/R18 92W---- 8 x 18 PCD is 4 x 108 offset 35----28 Front-------- 0mm
245/40/R18 92W---- 8 x 18 PCD is 4 x 108 offset 38----30 Rear---------25mm

Speed rating of tires is little over spec as my car is absolutely maxed out at 162MPH so could get away with ZR rating.