[Edited on 9/3/20 by nick205]
I'm hopefully moving on to plumbing my brakes soon. I have discs all round (and for simplicity want to make this setup work, rather than swap to
drums).
I've seen mention on here of using a Mondeo brake valve - and can see there are some currently available on eBay. Can anyone give feedback on
the success/otherwise of using this - and any tips/hints? I assume it can be fitted 'in-line' part way down the rigid brake line? (I have
seen that the original fitment was straight into the brake cylinder)
The specific part is FINIS 1113725 - although from pics I have already seen, there seem to be variations on the actual part for the same part
number.
I do also have the 'interia' valve from my donor Sierra - I have seen posts on here mentioning some use this (And others declaring it
useless!). However the Mondeo part looks smaller, so presumably will be easier to locate in what is turning into a rather busy part of the engine bay!
My only concern is that the balance valve for a Mondeo is calibrated for that car, with it's factory spec brakes and wheel loading which is
completely different to a 7. I think you'd find it will be very prone to locking up the rear before the fronts, especially with discs at the
back, you could end up at best writing the car off in a spin.
I'd recommend ditching it and fitting an adjustable valve that you can then lock once adjusted correctly so that you can tailor it to the
requirements specific to your car.
Here is an webpage about the subject -
Linky
On my MK Indy (Sierra disc front/drum rear) I used a Fiat Uno valve fitted to a bracket I made to allow adjustment for the rear brake pressure. It
worked fine, got me through SVA and allowed me to setup so the front locked before the rear. Back then I got the valve from an Uno in a scrap yard -
the scrap yard has long since been developed into housing.
[Edited on 9/3/20 by nick205]
The 'problem' with the Ford part is, as you say, there are lot's of different versions.
The basic valve simply limits the hydraulic pressure, at a pre-set non-adjustable value, that exists in the brake line down-wind of the valve. So
making the brakes on the end of that hydraulic pipe less effective at higher pressure.
If you know what the pressure cut-off is for the valve you get and you have done all the necessary calculations then you could use it.
BUT....
It's much easier to buy an adjustable valve and test by trial and error until you get it about right.
Thanks guys - my understanding is that an adjustable valve (even if locked/pinned/welded, etc) just won't wash at IVA? From how I understand the Uno valve works (a rising plunger hits against a stop) it looks ideal - but Google is not helping me find the part!!!
The Sierra valve is an inertia unit which needs setting up at the correct angle for the vehicle. When tested on rollers it won’t do anything.
quote:
Originally posted by Dingz
The Sierra valve is an inertia unit which needs setting up at the correct angle for the vehicle. When tested on rollers it won’t do anything.