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Brake lights issue

sonic - 25/6/16 at 06:57 PM

Hi all

During a drive out the other night I was told by a chap behind me that my brake lights aren't working, I pressed the pedal and they came on, he said he had followed me for a couple of miles etc and nothing working.

I got a mate to follow me and nothing working whilst driving, it would appear whilst driving I don't need to press the pedal very hard to slow down / stop, if I push pedal harder whilst stood still they come on. if I pushed that hard whilst driving I think It would result in an emergency stop!

So what's the solution, currently wired to a pressure switch in the brake line copper pipe, have a got a faulty switch ?

Smoking Frog - 25/6/16 at 07:06 PM

The info's on here if you can find it. Sounds like you need a different pressure switch.

prawnabie - 25/6/16 at 07:12 PM

is the pressure switch pointing up - could be air there and if it is in the rear line there sometimes isn't enough pressure generated to switch it on!

britishtrident - 25/6/16 at 07:24 PM

quote:
Originally posted by prawnabie
is the pressure switch pointing up - could be air there and if it is in the rear line there sometimes isn't enough pressure generated to switch it on!

Old chestnut Pressure is pressure nothing to do with the medium exerting the pressure.

Issue is the hydraulic working pressure is much lower on Seven type cars than it is on tintops.

tones61 - 25/6/16 at 07:34 PM

change the brake switch to a leccy one as i did,
had same prob on my dax,
use the wires off the original pressure switch/extended, :-)

CosKev3 - 25/6/16 at 07:46 PM

quote:
Originally posted by tones61
change the brake switch to a leccy one as i did,
had same prob on my dax,
use the wires off the original pressure switch/extended, :-)

Same here.

Just get a switch off eBay for a classic mini and then make up a bracket to hold it

bi22le - 25/6/16 at 07:56 PM

Bang on the money by all above. I had exactly the problem. Lights only come on with heavy braking which I never did on the road.

Search on here I posted a FYI detailing part numbers and everything.

SteveWalker - 25/6/16 at 11:31 PM

What sort of pedal arrangement do you have? You may be able to fit a pedal switch, which I'd think would be more simple and reliable.

Bluemoon - 26/6/16 at 06:42 AM

Any photos of an install for mechanical switch with floor mounted peddles such as the MK??

Same issue but have pressure switch in rear circuit (mistake as pressure is lower there)... Not sure it's worth the hassle to try and move or add mechanical switch..

Dan

CosKev3 - 26/6/16 at 07:11 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
Any photos of an install for mechanical switch with floor mounted peddles such as the MK??

Same issue but have pressure switch in rear circuit (mistake as pressure is lower there)... Not sure it's worth the hassle to try and move or add mechanical switch..

Dan

I wouldn't bother relocating the pressure switch,easier to make up a bracket to hold a switch than mess about with brake pipes/bleeding etc imo.

I made up a bracket out of some alloy,and mounted it onto the end of the brake pedal mounting bolt,but the bracket is also sat on the floor of the car.

Then it was just a case of welding on a litte tab onto the pedal to press on the switch .

Description

[Edited on 26/6/16 by CosKev3]

avagolen - 26/6/16 at 06:14 PM

After checking with Steve at Fury Sports Cars about this very subject
He recomends fitting the pressure switch in the front break cct.

It works better. He is using the brake switch from a beetle. :-)

Hth.

Len

Angel Acevedo - 27/6/16 at 11:30 PM

Somewhere here I read that a pedal activated microswitch would be good.
It can be rigged to switch on with very little pedal movement.
This will cause the light to go on even before you have brake actuation.
I don´t know if this would be legal in UK but I Like the idea and most likely my course of action once I get to that point.
HTH

avagolen - 28/6/16 at 08:22 AM

That is a great idea. Problem with my pedals is that they do not lend
themselves to an easy install without potentially preventing the
brake pedal from returning to the fully relaxed position.
I would need to rig a return spring to ensure reliable functions.

Spent a lot of time looking at my setup and I am going to try the hydraulic
switch in the front cct first.

prawnabie - 28/6/16 at 11:36 AM

if you have a 3 way union in the front line replace it with a 4 way and put the switch in there!

Angel Acevedo - 28/6/16 at 01:03 PM

quote:
Originally posted by avagolen
That is a great idea. Problem with my pedals is that they do not lend
themselves to an easy install without potentially preventing the
brake pedal from returning to the fully relaxed position.
I would need to rig a return spring to ensure reliable functions.

Spent a lot of time looking at my setup and I am going to try the hydraulic
switch in the front cct first.

If your pedal is not returning fully, you May have premature brake pad wear.
The microswitch doesn't need to be installed on the pedal it may be installed on the pedal box or in the chassis near the pedal and actuated via a spring lever...
I'm on my mobile now, but when I have access to my computer will try to post link.

avagolen - 28/6/16 at 03:24 PM

Prawnabie - that is my plan exactly.

Angel - the fury does not have what you are expecting.
The pedal has a balance bar half way up pushing
directly on the master cylinder piston rods.

Balance_Bar - Shortened