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Author: Subject: Underseal?
Cadburys Man

posted on 16/1/14 at 12:23 AM Reply With Quote
Underseal?

Do any of u guys underseal the underneath of your kit cars for the winter?
The reason i ask is cos mine isn't done so i was wondering how many of yours is.

Daz.





Stuart Taylor ZX9-R Locosaki

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dhutch

posted on 16/1/14 at 04:42 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Cadburys Man
Do any of u guys underseal the underneath of your kit cars for the winter?
The reason i ask is cos mine isn't done so i was wondering how many of yours is.

Daz.


When I bought mine it had a coat of what, as far as I could tell, was black waxoyl over the bottom of the car and rear chassis, and that old school gooey repair tape* over the fuel pump, harness joints and other such exposed areas.

It was all a bit of a grungy mess, all over the bottom of the ali floor in about 3mm stick, and the paint was starting to fail and rust behind in stone-accessible areas, so in the end I took the lot off with a scraper, degreaser, and a pressure washer. The rear loom plugs where shot but I suspect there where when they where wrapped and the rest was mint condition.

I don't know what the previous owners use of the car was, and must say the I use it its doing just fine without, but who knows. I make a bit of an effort not to use the car when there is going to be salt on the road, and try to wash it down if I do, but although I dont use it that much in winter it gets out in more weather than a lot

*forget the name, but would remember it if someone prompted me, the stuff your parents/grandparents would buy to do a bodge



Daniel

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cliftyhanger

posted on 16/1/14 at 08:07 AM Reply With Quote
Denso tape is the stuff, and is brilliant at its job. That is protecting things from liquids or indeed wrapping pipework buried in concrete. Also very good for protecting leaf springs from corrosion.

The issue with older underseals is they have a tendency to lift and allow corrosion underneath. And that is made much worse by garages and so on applying it to bare metal. Any metal needs to be primed and topcoated before undersealing.
If you want a protective coating I would clean, etchprime bare metal and then use stonechip. That can then be topcoated in your choice of finish.
Well worth applying wax/oil type products to areas where water may be an issue and areas difficult to access.

Of course, this all depends on car usage, and whether you want a clean underside or a well protected one.

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davidimurray

posted on 16/1/14 at 09:14 AM Reply With Quote
I've bought some of this to protect my aluminium body panels - http://www.everbritecoatings.com/ProtectaClear.htm - but don't see any reason why you couldnt do more of the car with it

Currently have a test piece at home covered in road salt and soaking in water to see how well it works!





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onenastyviper

posted on 16/1/14 at 10:16 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by davidimurray
I've bought some of this to protect my aluminium body panels - http://www.everbritecoatings.com/ProtectaClear.htm - but don't see any reason why you couldnt do more of the car with it

Currently have a test piece at home covered in road salt and soaking in water to see how well it works!


Does that work with it being submerged all the time, I thought the reaction slows down as the amount of oxygen is diminished by the creation of rust?





"If I knew what I was doing then it wouldn't be called research would it?...duh!"

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davidimurray

posted on 16/1/14 at 10:34 AM Reply With Quote
I'm not sure, but you can see bubbles above the aluminium so something must be happening It has had 48 hours (by the time I get home) subemrged in the salt/water solution. Tonight I plan to lift the aluminium out of the water with the salt still on it and then spray it with water every 12 hours or so for a few days.

Some interesting reading - http://www.aluminiumdesign.net/design-support/aluminiums-corrosion-resistance/

[Edited on 16/1/14 by davidimurray]





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Mr Whippy

posted on 16/1/14 at 12:57 PM Reply With Quote
I use underseal on all my cars, unfortunately it has a bad reputation (like body filler) due to it being too good and used to hide rust and all sorts of horrors. Funnily enough I’d not buy a car already undersealed for that very reason.

So long as the base surface is in good condition and well painted it is perfect for preserving the metal. Put it over damp rusty metal and it will just make matters worse. I think MOT inspectors also view it with much suspicion and are more likely to whack the panel with a hammer!

I thin mine down with cellulose thinner not white spirits as cellulose evaporates overnight leaving no smell and rock hard underseal which can then be over coated straight away. It’s messy s$£t though and can render your garage floor a disaster area, sheets of old plywood and latex gloves are a must.

Mind though the most damage aluminium gets on cars is when it is bolted right up against steel, you should always have a gasket or rubber spacer between the too. I rebuild landrovers and the damage to the body caused by a missing rubber packer can be mental.




[Edited on 16/1/14 by Mr Whippy]

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dhutch

posted on 16/1/14 at 04:09 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by cliftyhanger
Denso tape
Thats the one 'orribal gunky stuff but it does work.

That and liberal amount if ACF-50 on moving part, bolts, etc.


Daniel

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mcerd1

posted on 16/1/14 at 04:43 PM Reply With Quote
not for corrosion protection but years ago someone recommended using that lumpy, rubbery stone chip protection paint on the inside of GRP arches to help stop them cracking / staring





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