melly-g
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| posted on 8/3/16 at 10:55 AM |
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Duratec
I know Ive asked this before.
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=198339
But does anyone think if I put a 2 litre duratec in my old Cmax to replace the 1.8 i would have any real problems with ECU and fuelling?
I believe the ECU could learn after a while?? I presume from lambda sensors ETC.
The 1.8 is using a bit too much oil for my liking and the 2l is supposedly not as prone to this issue!
[Edited on 8/3/16 by melly-g]
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nick205
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| posted on 8/3/16 at 11:21 AM |
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Haven't read the other thread, but for my money I'd sell the C-Max and buy something else. Engine swaps in tin tops are never as straight
forward as they sound.
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peter030371
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| posted on 8/3/16 at 12:50 PM |
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I doubt very much that the ECU would learn a complete new map and that's if by chance all the sensors, injectors etc are exactly the same.
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chillis
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| posted on 8/3/16 at 06:58 PM |
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The ecu is most likely based on torque modelling so even if you can shoe horn in the 2.5 duratec and everything else matched it wont have any more
performance than the 1.8. If it has electronic throttle then that's a cert.
Never under estimate the ingenuity of an idiot!
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melly-g
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| posted on 9/3/16 at 10:41 AM |
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I wasn't trying to get more performance, I had heard that the 2l didn't suffer with oil consumption like the 1.8 does.
But looking again last night it happens to both of them so I'll check out the valve stem seals first and go from there.
Cheers for the replies.
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 9/3/16 at 01:22 PM |
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If its running OK just keep adding oil until it dies.
Or if you are desperate to keep it on the road for many years fit another 1.8 which is a good known engine.
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nick205
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| posted on 9/3/16 at 02:15 PM |
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It can be a pain, but there are tools available to allow you to replace valve stem seals without removing the cylinder head - could save replacing the
head gasket and quite a bit of time.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 9/3/16 at 02:33 PM |
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I'm told its just as likely to be caused by a dead / blocked / stuck PCV valve or stuck rings...
Obviously the PCV valve and its associated manifold bits are the easiest thing to check / change - so that's what I'm about to do on my
one....
If that doesn't solve it then a leakdown test is probably the next thing to check the rings (I would do it first, but I don't have a
tester at the moment)
[Edited on 9/3/2016 by mcerd1]
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melly-g
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| posted on 9/3/16 at 11:06 PM |
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Yes I've got the tool for doing valve stem seals with the head on, just worried about timing with no keyways! I've got the locking
pins/bars required but still a bit worried never done a modern engine with timing chain.
Is there an easy way to check the PCV valve without taking it off, as the inlet manifold has to be removed first. Can I check for pressure somewhere
like the dipstick or filler?
[Edited on 9/3/16 by melly-g]
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mcerd1
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| posted on 10/3/16 at 08:51 AM |
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From what I hear its probably best to take it off just to check for cracks in the plastic or leaking gaskets etc...
(I'm hoping that this is my problem as I sometimes get other air leak like symptoms and the oil seems to drop so far then stop)
I can't think of any way to check otherwise, it it was stuck shut then you'd likely get some pressure in the crank case, but that would
make it hard for the oil to get out that way too (although the pressure might force oil out of other places...)
Oil in the TB is a potential sign of a dead PCV valve, but that still means stripping it down a bit...
I should say that I'm in no way the duratec expert, I'm learning as I go. (I'm much happier playing with my pinto  )
[Edited on 10/3/2016 by mcerd1]
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melly-g
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| posted on 10/3/16 at 10:41 AM |
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(I'm much happier playing with my pinto )
Tell me about it!! simple old school tech Love it!
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