sonic
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| posted on 3/6/16 at 08:39 PM |
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How do you fit a type 9 gear lever position extension
 
Description
Hello
Could some body give me some help on how to fit a gear lever extension to my 2006 MK Indy
I had a look tonight and I assume you have to remove the dust cap off the end of the gearbox, my problem is it looks like it still wont fit due to the
chassis cross member as seen in the photograph.
Do I need to cut it out ?, and pictures or help would be appreciated
Thanks
[Edited on 3/6/16 by sonic]
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baz-R
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| posted on 4/6/16 at 08:28 AM |
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Core plug or cap needs to be removed
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JMW
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| posted on 4/6/16 at 08:45 AM |
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As said, core plug needs to be removed. But it does look like the cross member is in the wrong place. If you can give the distance to the front face
of the cross member I could check. I'm presuming you don't actually have a gear lever extension to hand to offer up to check yourself?
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anthony1
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| posted on 4/6/16 at 02:33 PM |
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Fitting gear lever extension...
My MK Indy had the same problem......I spoke to someone at MK and they confirmed that it was OK to remove the small cross rail from the chassis . I
had considered welding another further back , but they said it would be fine without. I masked everything with tape and old rags etc. then carefully
cut it out with the angle grinder , dressed it off and the repainted it. The extension fitted perfectly.
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Adamirish
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| posted on 4/6/16 at 07:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by anthony1
My MK Indy had the same problem......I spoke to someone at MK and they confirmed that it was OK to remove the small cross rail from the chassis . I
had considered welding another further back , but they said it would be fine without. I masked everything with tape and old rags etc. then carefully
cut it out with the angle grinder , dressed it off and the repainted it. The extension fitted perfectly.
This is what I did too. Just for my own piece of mind I will weld a new brace further up the tunnel(towards the dash) at some point. I just
haven't got round to it yet.
As for fitting, it takes 5 mins. Take out old gear lever, 12" 3/8 extension in through the top and hammer out the plug on the end of the box and
throw it in the bin. I've left mine open and I know most, if not all people do.
Remember to take the the saddle off the gear stick and put it on the extension too.
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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sonic
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| posted on 4/6/16 at 07:52 PM |
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Thanks for the replies guys
You have confirmed what I though about removing the cross brace, it just nice to have a second opinion before cutting it. I will reweld it further
down just for piece of mind.
Thank you
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sonic
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| posted on 9/6/16 at 08:28 PM |
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Hello guys
I have fitted the gear lever extension tonight as said above, the only problem I have is that it seems to go into reverse very easy.
I can get all of the gears but when selecting first it doesn't take much to select reverse instead, in actual fact its harder to select
fifth.
Have I done something wrong?, I knocked out the metal piece at the side of the stick in the gearbox, removed the plastic saddle on the end of the
gearstick and refitted to the extension end although I am not sure I got this the right way round.
Any help would be appreciated
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Mash
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| posted on 9/6/16 at 08:53 PM |
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Did you have the "easy reverse" problem with the box before?
May sound like a stupid question, but mine doesn't have an extension, and I selected reverse by mistake twice last time I drove it (Tuesday) 
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Adamirish
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| posted on 9/6/16 at 09:42 PM |
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Not a problem I have had to be honest. Sometimes it baulks going into reverse but with the detent it's virtually impossible to get reverse
instead of first. Unless you are pushing the lever down at the time.
I have however selected 1st instead of 3rd a couple of times but that's just my kack driving!
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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sonic
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| posted on 10/6/16 at 04:35 PM |
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No didn't have the problem before and it still selects all the gears ok but between 1st and reverse seems to easy, as said there is more
resistance going into 5th.
on the plastic saddle that sits over the shaft which way should the flat side sit? towards the driver or passenger
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Andy D
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| posted on 10/6/16 at 06:15 PM |
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You could try shimming it with washers so it sits higher on the box? There's a reverse lock gizmo that you should need to overcome by pushing
down on the stick? It could be missing it? ..hard to explain.
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Adamirish
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| posted on 10/6/16 at 06:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Andy D
There's a reverse lock gizmo that you should need to overcome by pushing down on the stick? It could be missing it? ..hard to explain.
That's the detent. It's a block on the RH side(iirc) underneath the extension which matches a notch on the lever. This means you HAVE to
push the lever down past the block to select reverse. The only thing I can think of to get past that is if the spring is missing off the lever.
As for the saddle, I can't remember which way round it goes off the top of my head. I would take mine off and have a look but that means taking
the seats out which is a ball ache!
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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Andy D
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| posted on 10/6/16 at 07:15 PM |
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Btw, I didn't mean the actual detent was missing.. I meant the extension was not correctly positioned so it works as a stop to prevent reverse
being selected inadvertently.
I had to put a couple of washers between the extension and gearbox, on each of the three bolts on mine for this very reason.
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sonic
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| posted on 10/6/16 at 07:53 PM |
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Hi
I knocked the detent out as suggested in the gearbox, the extension sitting to low could be the answer as I don't have to push the lever down to
select reverse just push it left.
When the gear stick was in the gearbox originally it had an alloy spacer about 6mm thick between the flange and top of the box which I refitted to the
gearstick at the extension end.
I will try a couple of washers tomorrow to see if it cures it.
Thanks
Guys
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alfas
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| posted on 11/6/16 at 04:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by anthony1
My MK Indy had the same problem......I spoke to someone at MK and they confirmed that it was OK to remove the small cross rail from the chassis . I
had considered welding another further back , but they said it would be fine without. I masked everything with tape and old rags etc. then carefully
cut it out with the angle grinder , dressed it off and the repainted it. The extension fitted perfectly.
so why its welded by the manufactuere when it can be removed?
if a customer is phoning me i would also confirm anything what he prefers to hear.
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Adamirish
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| posted on 11/6/16 at 12:34 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by alfas
quote:
Originally posted by anthony1
My MK Indy had the same problem......I spoke to someone at MK and they confirmed that it was OK to remove the small cross rail from the chassis . I
had considered welding another further back , but they said it would be fine without. I masked everything with tape and old rags etc. then carefully
cut it out with the angle grinder , dressed it off and the repainted it. The extension fitted perfectly.
so why its welded by the manufactuere when it can be removed?
if a customer is phoning me i would also confirm anything what he prefers to hear.
What's the point in just telling a customer what they want to hear? Surely that's bad practise by yourself? That's a brave thing to
say on an Internet forum. If any of your customers read this, I'm sure they won't be very happy.
A small manufacturer such as MK sportscars I'm sure would have told the truth. If they thought it's a big no no, they would have said as
such. Adding to the fact a lot of people have done the same with no ill effects including myself. 12 months now of fairly hard driving on bumpy roads,
my car hasn't fallen apart, snapped, killed anyone etc.
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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sonic
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| posted on 11/6/16 at 07:04 PM |
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Hi Guys
I fitted some extra washers under the spacer at gear lever mount and it seams to have cured the problem I had, I now have to push the lever down and
across to get reverse rather than just across.
Thank you for the tip Andy D and advise everybody
my next post is to see how everybody has trimmed to tunnel, as the lever is now further back and the base sits higher above the frame I would like
some ideas
Thanks agin
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Adamirish
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| posted on 11/6/16 at 08:18 PM |
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Glad to hear you got it sorted.
I trimmed the whole top of the tunnel with neoprene. The old hole is still there but covered. I've got stacks of it if you want any.
Looks quite tidy in person. I would have used carbon fibre if it wasn't so expensive!
MK Indy 1700 Xflow
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sonic
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| posted on 11/6/16 at 08:55 PM |
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Hopefully this picture works but as you can see it sits above the frame and really near where the frame starts to bend upwards making it harder to fit
a gear stick surround
[img]http://
 
[/img]
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tul214
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| posted on 11/6/16 at 10:30 PM |
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Use a CV joint rubber boot?
1.6 Raw Super6 sold
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Andy D
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| posted on 12/6/16 at 06:09 AM |
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That alloy spacer under the gear lever must be some sort of quick shift conversion? If you wanted to get rid of it, just fit a standard gear lever,
and it'll sit lower, perhaps flush with the top of the tunnel?
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emwmarine
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| posted on 12/6/16 at 05:29 PM |
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can't get my extension to fit.
I've just had one of the ebay extensions delivered. However I get get it to fit.
The yolk that mimics the original gearlever yolk is just too long to fit into the selector shaft where the gearlever would normally fit. The type 9
gearlever yolk is around 10mm ish and the yolk on the extension is a good 5mm longer.
Having cut it down it still doesn't fit properly. each of the prongs on the yolk look slightly too wide.
Building a Dax Rush.
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emwmarine
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| posted on 12/6/16 at 06:24 PM |
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What a fool am I.
Went out again to the garage with my glasses on and realised I hadn't pulled out the little plastic saddle.....
Now i've got a bit of extra vertical movement in the gear lever....
Building a Dax Rush.
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