shortie
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 07:36 AM |
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Good Weekend
Well this weekend was one of those when it pretty much goes to plan, fairly rare but nice when it comes together.
A couple of things I need a spot of advice on.
Firstly close up pics of the cycle wing bracket fixings would be handy, especially the MAC#1 ones if poss as I have them but any would be useful.
Secondly can someone just confirm which way round the track rod ends should be fitted or does it not matter, should the little pointed bit point
towards the front or back?
Thridly I am going to grind all the sierra bits off my colum but wanted to check how much I can remove, can I remove the whole lot?? Again, any pics
would be handy.
Also for SVA is it accetable to use tie wraps and\or stcky tie wrap mounting blocks where it's not possible to use a rivetted tie wrap block, I
am thinking of areas such as for the number plate light wiring and such as the accelorator cable to keep it in place.
Also I know each SVA centre is different (I will ring them and check) but just wondered whether it is ok to get the chassis number engraved in a plate
and rivet it to the chassis or does it have to be stamped on the chassis aswell.
All help\thoughts much appreciated.
Rich.
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zetec
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 08:10 AM |
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Re the use of sticky mountings for cable ties. I think you will find they are fine for places that won't get battered with oil/water so what you
are asking sounds fine. I don't think they are the best thing to use for the accelerator cable as it will apply pressure to the mounting in use
and it will come unstuck in time, I cable tied mine around a chassis tube and that passed OK.
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shortie
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 08:12 AM |
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Thanks for the advice Zetec will probably just tie wrap the acc cable or maybe use some riveted blocks aswell.
Rich.
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ReMan
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 08:40 AM |
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Re. Track rod end, im sure it does matter, but they don't all have a point on them. The first pair I was supplied with one had a point, the other
didnt , so I sent them back for a pair that were the same without points! Thought it might be more SVA friendly.
The pair I have now do have a part number on them the last digit one one is R and on the other L if that means anything to you? 
Pic shows RH, sorry It not brill but it shows which way it cants.
 
Rescued attachment rodend.jpg
www.plusnine.co.uk
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Fozzie
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 08:54 AM |
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Rich,
In my experience, the chassis has to be physically stamped too. The DVLA's take on that, is that should it be stolen, it makes it easier for the
tea-leaves to remove the plate, and harder to hide if it is actually stamped.
I made the plate for the engine bay, and also stamped the chassis where it is a bit (only a bit) harder to be seen, however I did take the DVLA
inspectors advice, and stamped the chassis...a few times, where no one but me, would ever think of looking/know about.....
HTH Fozzie
'Racing is Life!...anything before or after is just waiting'....Steve McQueen
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shortie
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 08:58 AM |
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thanks guys (and girls),
My TRE have points and just wondered if anyone else's did and which way they had them.
Fozzie, don't mind stamping the chassis but trying to think of the best place where it won't dent.
Rich.
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jimgiblett
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 09:04 AM |
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When you say grind the bits off the sierra column are you talking about the ali casting.
If so DON'T !! 
Never use a metal grinding disc on aluminium. Ali melts under grinder heat and then embeds itself into the abrasive wheel. It has been known that
subsequent use and the heat can explode a disc with potentially very nasty consequenses. Much better is to use a hacksaw and file.
As for stamping the chassis. Pedal box is a good area, its best to use a dolly on the back.
Cheers
Jim
[Edited on 13/6/05 by jimgiblett]
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Hellfire
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 09:12 AM |
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If you do use a grinding wheel on Aluminium make sure you clean it properly using an Industrial Diamond or as stated it will explode. Due to extra
force to get required removal of material it will compromise the structure and eventually the wheel will give-way.
As always please, please wear adequate designated eye protection when using this gear!
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Fozzie
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 09:20 AM |
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Rich, U2U sent
Fozzie
'Racing is Life!...anything before or after is just waiting'....Steve McQueen
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Guinness
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 09:54 AM |
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I had pointy TRE's on my Indy. When they were on facing forward they just skimmed the inner edge of my wheels (14" donor alloys), so I
turned them round so the pointy bit faces backwards.
Don't know if that's right but it gained me an extra bit of clearance that should allow me to use 13" alloys.
HTH
Mike
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shortie
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 10:34 AM |
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Thanks for the advice guys, won't grind it then!!
Will cut main bit off with a hacksaw and then use the lathe or maybe a flap wheel on the grinder.
Rich.
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mac1ZR
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 11:09 AM |
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heres the mac1 wing bracket
 
Rescued attachment wing.JPG
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Jonr
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 11:14 AM |
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If your worried about denting the chassis with stamps could you use one of those electric engraving jobbies and engrave it? You have to have access
to one of course.
Failing that stamp up a steel plate and weld it on. Yeah you can still grind it off, but you can grind off a stamp as well.
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Fozzie
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 11:25 AM |
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yup agree, there jon have also got a welded in plate....'somewhere', both ways a lot safer/more acceptable to Mr SVA man than a rivetted
plate......so I have been told by Mr DVLA inspector
Fozzie
'Racing is Life!...anything before or after is just waiting'....Steve McQueen
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mad-butcher
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| posted on 13/6/05 at 06:34 PM |
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if you're worried about denting the tubes how about on the steering rack mounting plate especially underneath no theiving get would think of
looking there
tony
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