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pluming help
smart51 - 13/10/18 at 02:10 PM

Minor disaster. I've taken off a piece of skirting in the bathroom to find that the builders had nailed it on through a central heating pipe. Water was pouring through the lights into the kitchen below. I've turned of the lighting circuit and drained the heating and I've soldered up the hole in the pipe. Is this likely to hold, or should I get someone in to cut out the pipe and fit new?


perksy - 13/10/18 at 02:21 PM

Copper microbore or 15mm? Or plastic pipe?


*If* its copper I'd cut a small section out and either solder in a straight coupler or if you've the room and don't fancy soldering use a mechanical straight coupler

[Edited on 13/10/18 by perksy]


smart51 - 13/10/18 at 02:32 PM

15mm copper. The pipe is right next to a stud in the wall. The piece would have to be hacksawn out. No chance of getting a pipe cutter in. Will be tricky to solder as there's no access to the back or side. I'd have to yet a yorkshire (?) fitting, heat the hell out of it and hope the solder flows all the way round.

I might be able to persuade a compression fitting in but not without ripping a big hole in the plasterboard to get the spanners on it. Hidden pipes are lovely until some knobhead nails through it.


jossey - 13/10/18 at 03:10 PM

If there is room in the cavity then I would replace with a push on flexo hose.

I small ish hole in plaster should allow you to replace the damaged area.

If it's close to the rad it flows to I would replace the damaged pipe with a new section to behind the rad where i can rejoin to main system and not have the added stress of cutting plaster out.


mark chandler - 13/10/18 at 03:29 PM

Cut a small section out of another bit of 15mm pipe, 1/2" long and cut in half longways then solder this over the top of the hole as a patch.

Absolutely no need to cut out the hole and introduce a straight join or similar, this will carry more risk of leaking once you start yanking and disturbing everything.


smart51 - 13/10/18 at 03:31 PM

quote:
Originally posted by mark chandler
Cut a small section out of another bit of 15mm pipe, 1/2" long and cut in half longways then solder this over the top of the hole as a patch.

Absolutely no need to cut out the hole and introduce a straight join or similar, this will carry more risk of leaking once you start yanking and disturbing everything.


This sounds like a plan.


gremlin1234 - 13/10/18 at 04:21 PM

self amalgamating tape
https://www.screwfix.com/p/self-amalgamating-rubber-tape-black-25mm-x-3m/2115v
or
solder on patch
https://www.screwfix.com/p/flowflex-copper-click-fix-pipe-repair-patch-15mm/5962v


smart51 - 13/10/18 at 05:09 PM

quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
self amalgamating tape
https://www.screwfix.com/p/self-amalgamating-rubber-tape-black-25mm-x-3m/2115v
or
solder on patch
https://www.screwfix.com/p/flowflex-copper-click-fix-pipe-repair-patch-15mm/5962v


Perfect, thanks. I'll go to screwfix tomorow. Job done.


big-vee-twin - 13/10/18 at 07:22 PM

Cut it out and replace pipe using push fit fittings, don't bodge it with tape.

[Edited on 13/10/18 by big-vee-twin]


JeffHs - 14/10/18 at 09:49 AM

Consider using a multitool to cut the pipe. I had to replace an old 1 inch pipe in the airing cupboard when I changed the hot water cylinder. The old isolation valve would not close. It was tight against a brick wall so impossible to hacksaw, but the multitool did a great job of making a dead square cut so I could fit a modern valve.


joneh - 14/10/18 at 10:59 AM

Late to the party but JG do a pipe repaired push fit section. Makes it a doddle.

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