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Author: Subject: OIL GRADE IN 1000RR
limpetminer

posted on 27/1/13 at 07:53 PM Reply With Quote
OIL GRADE IN 1000RR

WHAT IS THE BEST OIL GRADE TO USE IN AN FIREBLADE 1000 RR ENGINE? FULLY SYNTHETIC OR SEMI?
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edsco

posted on 28/1/13 at 07:36 AM Reply With Quote
For racing I use Fully Synth 10w50





edsco

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johnemms

posted on 28/1/13 at 11:25 AM Reply With Quote
Motorbike oil.... not car oil...
I think they are different..





Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"

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MikeRJ

posted on 28/1/13 at 12:04 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by johnemms
Motorbike oil.... not car oil...
I think they are different..


Bike oils never have the friction modifiers that can cause wet clutches to slip. Some car oils do (labeled "energy saving" ), some don't. You can use top quality car oil in bikes with no problems at all, provided you ensure it's compatible with wet clutches.

However, for something like a Fireblade I would want to use a fully synthetic oil, and the choice of suitable car oils is then rather narrower.

[Edited on 28/1/13 by MikeRJ]

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limpetminer

posted on 29/1/13 at 08:30 AM Reply With Quote
CBR 1000 RR OIL

MINE HAS A DRY SUMP OIL SYSTEM,SO THE GEARBOX & CLUTCH WOULD USE SEPERATE OIL TO THE ENGINE?? PLEASE ADVISE IF I HAVE THIS WRONG.I HAVE ONLY JUST BOUGHT THE CAR & HAVE A LOT TO LEARN ABOUT BIKE ENGINES.
THANKS.

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johnemms

posted on 29/1/13 at 10:25 AM Reply With Quote
Motor oil with an 11% zinc amount in it will offer the extra protection needed and this amount is generally added to most if not all motor oils. Motor oil for high revving engines on performance sports cars and air cooled motorcycles should really have a higher zinc content as it will give extended protection of all metal to metal surfaces. Just to emphasise that zinc will not give higher upgraded protection it just protects longer, consider a bike engine working at 14,000 r.p.m whereas most car engines run at 2,500 r.p.m....big difference isn't it!
--------------------------------------------
I have found no cheaper way to go than to use Valvoline VR-1. If you read every label on the automart shelves carrying standard oils that meet today’s requirements, you will probably discover that only VR-1 contains ZDDP. It is only marginally more costly than ordinary current-spec oils, and it requires no additional (and expensive) ZDDP additives. Now that the word is out among flat-cam old car owners, the oil marketers have discovered the profitability of carrying ZDDP-enhanced oils, they have typically charged very high prices for them. VR-1 is still reasonably priced, and I have built four engines recently with flat-cams, using VR-1, without a single failure. Be advised that there is some research out there that claims that older engines that have already been driven substantial miles using ZDDP oils may not need ZDDP oils after the cams are “broken in”, since the ZDDP acts to change the surface of the cams, over time. Unfortunately, I do not know what the recommended minimum mileage is, so I just use VR-1 in all of my older engines. So far, so good.

Higer zinc and phospher is good for my crossflow..
However.. not good if you got a cat & sensors..

[Edited on 29/1/13 by johnemms]





Own chassis & Build - First time pass!!
"7's" aren't really "cars", they are 'experiences"

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adithorp

posted on 29/1/13 at 12:21 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by limpetminer
MINE HAS A DRY SUMP OIL SYSTEM,SO THE GEARBOX & CLUTCH WOULD USE SEPERATE OIL TO THE ENGINE?? PLEASE ADVISE IF I HAVE THIS WRONG.I HAVE ONLY JUST BOUGHT THE CAR & HAVE A LOT TO LEARN ABOUT BIKE ENGINES.
THANKS.


You have it wrong.

A dry sump on a bike engine still provides oil to the engine, gearbox and clutch. The difference is just that the resevoir of oil is in a separate tank and not in the sump. The oil is fed direct from the tank to the oil pump where it is circulated around the engine in the normal way. As the oil returns/drains to the sump, it is reurned to the tank by a scavenge pump.





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phelpsa

posted on 29/1/13 at 03:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
quote:
Originally posted by johnemms
Motorbike oil.... not car oil...
I think they are different..


Bike oils never have the friction modifiers that can cause wet clutches to slip. Some car oils do (labeled "energy saving" ), some don't. You can use top quality car oil in bikes with no problems at all, provided you ensure it's compatible with wet clutches.

However, for something like a Fireblade I would want to use a fully synthetic oil, and the choice of suitable car oils is then rather narrower.

[Edited on 28/1/13 by MikeRJ]


Fully synthetic bike oil tends to be lower viscosity (5w30 rather than 10w40 in most cases) which makes the clutch grabbier. It also works the plates harder because there is less torque transmitted by fluid shear during slipping. I would recommend sticking with 10w40 or 10w50.

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OX

posted on 29/1/13 at 05:47 PM Reply With Quote
You can get most big name motor bike fully synthetic oils in 10/40 . If you change it often you might get away with semi synthetic .

I have to use Motorex Cross Power 10/60 in mine because of the silver nitride coated big end bearings

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