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Author: Subject: WTD: 1.8 cvh ecu
sprouts-car

posted on 11/5/15 at 03:23 PM Reply With Quote
WTD: 1.8 cvh ecu

I'm looking for an ecu for a 1.8 cvh engine.

Basically to swap with the one I have to see if it makes any difference to engine woes.

Anyone got one and not want silly money for it?

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jimmyd

posted on 11/5/15 at 03:46 PM Reply With Quote
I can help. PM me your details, a small donation of your choice and P&P is all that's required.
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AdrianH

posted on 11/5/15 at 04:46 PM Reply With Quote
I am in Blackburn and have a spare, you can borrow if you wish, but would like to keep it as a spare,!

What issues are you having?

Adrian





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.

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sprouts-car

posted on 11/5/15 at 05:17 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by AdrianH
I am in Blackburn and have a spare, you can borrow if you wish, but would like to keep it as a spare,!

What issues are you having?

Adrian



This was the thread: http://locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=197912





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AdrianH

posted on 11/5/15 at 06:57 PM Reply With Quote
Thought you were a lot closer, don’t know why now looking at your location!

If you are happy that the spark stops before the engine, and you have checked over the points as described above, then I would only suggest one other thing to try before you try another ECU and that would be the gap between the pick up coil and the front pulley teeth, I think less then 1 mm. I used a piece of cardboard from a cereal packet laid over the teeth and the pick-up coil just starting to compress it as a measure.

The sensors are air temp, water temp and vacuum from the manifold on the ESC hybrid ECU, it has an output for a relay to drive a heating coil in the choke and I can not see any of them causing this issue. There are a few wires that set octane, but all dis/connected the unit should still run.

I assume you have by-passed the alarm immobilizer so check the links, but as this is a recent fault then again I assume this to be OK.


On the fuel side take off the fuel line to the perberg carb, point into a jar and have someone crank the engine with the ignition co0il disconnected, if it keeps pumping out after a few seconds then move on to something else. The general problem with the worn bar was loosing it under load when the pump could not keep up with demand.

Again assumption is you are using the original vapour trap system from the Sierra so only a single hose to the carb.

If it is a CFI unit then that could be a different matter, but it would not be the ESC hybrid system, these were used on the 1.8 CVH as well.

Found mine very reliable up to now.

Adrian





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.

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