I am going to be bolting ancillaries and a new sump back onto my Pinto soon, first time i've done this kind of work to an engine. How clean do faces need to be for gaskets? I have attached below a few (bad) pics of the sump surface below.

I've scraped it gently with a razor blade and wiped down with white spirit. Is this the right approach?

I can't discern any lumps and bumps by touch now - is that smooth enough?


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My first step after cleaning/scraping is to run a finger over the surface, you’ll feel any high/low spots.
Next is a straight edge if I can feel anything.
A light sanding is ok but you have to cover everything inside of the gasket face.
I’ll use a thin smear of gasket seal on the sump face and let it set overnight then the same on the block

Ive always used a thin bead of LM grease, on both metal face's never had a problem

steve

If you haven't already got a gasket set get a competition set from Burtons , much better than cork

Cheers guys - yes, i've got the Burton Power comp set, i've seen plenty of threads on here mentioning it. I just want to prep properly so I don't have to buy it twice!

For the sump, I just used a very very light smear of silicone sealant rather than a gasket. This is working nicely with no leaks.

The competition gaskets from Burtons are great on an engine with a cast ally sump, however with a tin sump I prefer a cork gasket, stuck to the sump with Hylomar and when set, put the sump in place without sealant......Use a gasket scraper to remove old gasket and sealant and don't rub with abrasive paper, grit just might get in the engine.....

[Edited on 2/9/18 by redturner]

The area a pinto leaks from is the gearbox end main bearing cap
There are small wedges that come with the sump gasket, hook out the old ones and clean out the gap, put the sealant of your choice down the hole, push in the wedges, smooth the sealant on the gearbox end block face, cut wedges flush.
Next I use a sealant on the rubber seals and push them down, last is the cork gasket