newbie here with an xr3i with a 2.0 zetec E in it.
All started well and stripped a donor Mondeo taking out everything necessary. Using the guide on here I've linked up the ECU to try and get it
running but to no avail.
Right now I have the fuel pump running no problem and I have the master key so no issue with PATS.
I can get the engine to crank but it doesn't seem to be sparking. I've double checked the timing and seems OK. I've plugged it in to
proper diag kit and do get some codes but nothing that seems to suggest I'd have a spark issue. I also don't think it's fueling
either oddly...
Codes im getting are;
P0443 evap (not connected)
P0135 02 malfunction
P1401 differential pressure (not connected)
P1409 EVR control malfuncton (not connected)
P1000 not all obd checks complete
P1116 coolant temp sensor out of range
P1650 power steering (not connected)
P1474 low fan control (not connected)
P1479 high fan control (not connected)
Sorry if it seems vague. Just really unsure what to try next...
Cheers, mark
Hi, cheers for the reply. I do have the LED wired up and it goes out just fine. Flashes as it should with the key removed. Hence I'm a little
stumped. I figure the lambda had been knocked about between me moving house etc.
More wondering what could possibly stop it from sparking or what tests I could do to check that and the fueling problem
The classic why the f##k won’t it start is the use of an engine from an automatic. The crank position sensor housing is differant and the sensor won’t
reach the trigger wheel in the flywheel.
No crank signal = equals no fuel and spark.
This also happens if you have the wires in the cps the wrong way around.
Suppose I jumped the gun on this hoping for an easy answer (one can wish) ...So here's a little more detail.
The engine and ecu came from a manual car so not sure that would be an issue.
It's a silvertop, with a cvh fly wheel with the bolt holes drilled out, HO inlet and 4 branch black top manifold. Gearbox is from a Mk5 escort
with the rear mounted starter. All the emissions faf is removed. I found a donor 1.8 so it's also got the 1.8 sump, pick up and pulley from that
on on a new water pump. Also got a new cambelt (double checked the timing)
When plugged into the diagnostics I do get a crank speed etc and other signals. It also reads TPS and temperatures OK but to be honest I'm not
100% sure on what to look for. Electrics really isn't my strong point...
Just trying to run it like a stand alone at the minute. Although I do have the wires linked up to the ignition switch perm and switched. Got the
correct relay to the starter which seems to be working as the ECU os the ground for the starter relay and it lets it kick over. The car is a MK4
escort.
To be honest I keep wondering if it's a grounding issue. I do know that a bad connection can make a sub amp look like it's working but
then won't produce power.
Pre pats ecu’s still had an early form of Immobilizer by the body control unit cutting the earth path to some parts.
Just for testing I would isolate the power and earth supply’s. Connecting them direct to the battery but still run the power through a few fuses. Just
a few crimps on to a blade fuse will be fine for testing.
Another obvious but easily over looked one is the engine earth strap. Should be fine if the engine is cranking but it Wouldn’t hurt to stick a jump
lead from the lifting eye to the battery earth.
Again I’ve seen voltage drops from nearly dead battery’s that will stop it from starting but will just about crank.
the original post states “ it doesn’t seem to be sparking” How have you checked for a spark?
Zetec engines don’t like dirty spark plugs ,there’s been a few cases on here where a new set has cured starting problems
CTS fault can and will cause problems ,possibly wetting plugs . Will also cause lambda sensor fault?
First off, cheers for all the replies guys appreciate the help and ideas so far.
So the fly wheel is from an EFi engine which means the car already had the fuel pump fitted. Again, when the key is turned I can hear the pump priming
and am 100% getting fuel pressure as I found out when I hadn't fully tightened a fuel clip (silly mistake)
So the main earth is connected directly from the head to the battery so I'd assume a good connection. Unfortunately I had also tried adding a
jumper cable from the block to the battery too but no difference.
To check the sparks I've simply removed them and held them against the cam cover and didn't see anything when cranking.
I think now you guys may also see why I'm asking for help lol.
As before though I'm not sure it's fueling either. I have inspected the plugs and found plug for cyl 3 looked wet but the other 3 were
bone dry.
Only 1 plug seems to be wet, cylinder 3. Unsure why only the one to be honest
Hence why I'm asking on here, I'm pretty damn stumped.
All I'm wondering is if anyone has an Owls ECU running their setup maybe they could just plug mine in and see if it works for them. Then at
least I'd know it's something I've done wrong and rules a duff ECU out.
I can’t help with the ecu as I’ve moved on to a Zetec turbo on Frs management and a rwd St220 on Oem management.
I am currently making the Zt rwd.
If your is currently stand alone and you can stick it in a box I would have a look over your wiring. Also yourtemp sensor out of range if not
connected will show a temperature of -40 deg. This would alter the timing.
Ok, thanks for the kind offer but have recently just bought an emerald k3 to get things going. The plan was always to throw some R1 TBs on anyway.
So the owls, loom, key etc will be up for sale shortly. I also have many other random bits for sale from the donor car and a spare 1.8 zetecE as well
as the original cvh efi engine etc if anyone is interested. Unfortunately I can't post in the for sale as I'm still too new.
.jpg)
