pathfinder
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| posted on 28/7/05 at 08:50 PM |
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going 2 the scrappy
im off to the scrap yard on sat to get a sierra diff, shafts and brakes. i have read the haynes manual and am feeling pritty confident. what size
sockets will i need? iv got a full set but not sure about the rear hub nut size! any other bits and bobs that i could take with me to make the job
easier?
cheers
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fastenuff
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| posted on 28/7/05 at 08:52 PM |
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Think it was mosstly 19 an d 17 mm sockets and some smaller ones for the brakes. That is asuming you''ll take out the sub frame at the
rear.
Ingmar
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pathfinder
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| posted on 28/7/05 at 08:57 PM |
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was thinking of taking it apart whilst i was under the car, as i dont think i will get the subframe in the back of my car. am i best to drop the
subframe out and then disassemble it????
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NigeEss
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| posted on 28/7/05 at 09:53 PM |
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Easiest way is to remove the beam complete and strip it on the deck.
Propshaft off (13 or 14mm socket), handbrake cables (13mm spanner IIRC), and 17,19 and 14mm to remove the main beam which has three bolts either side
on the floor corner and a U shaped diff support at centre/back. Two 17's for the bottom shockies, snip the brake lines and it's off.
I don't want toinsult you here but it's quite heavy and drops quickly so be safe.
Whip the drum off and use a 13mm socket to remove the four bolts holding the hub on and take the handbrake cable off then pull the
hub/bearing/driveshaft out as one.
I found the long bolts holding the diff on to be absolute b'stewards and had to drift them out with a looooong bar.
One this that pi**ed me off was the lack of drain plug on the diff so there's no option but to spew oil all over the show as soon as the shafts
come out.
Hopfully my memory has served me well here but I'm sure I'll be corrected pretty quickly if it's failed me 
Have fun,
Nige.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 29/7/05 at 07:03 AM |
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if it's a disc braked one, don't forget the torx bit for the driveshaft bolts.............ho ho ho ho ho!!!
(you'll need several, and possibly and angle grinder too for these!)
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James
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| posted on 29/7/05 at 07:31 AM |
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Hold On!
Before you go dropping the subframe out...
Easiest way to get the rear hub nuts off is with the whole thing in the car with the wheels on! Then you've got something to turn it against.
Without the wheels you'll need to lock the driveshaft somehow before you can undo them. And they take 280lbs/ft!!!  Or more if they're
rusted- mine needed 600lbs/ft to undo.
Takes a 41mm socket by the way!
Then drop the subframe out and do the rest. Don't even bother buggering your Torx bits doing the drive shafts. Just grind the heads off and pull
apart. New bolts are pennies whilst new torx bits cost pounds!
Hope that helps,
James
[Edited on 29/7/05 by James]
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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JoelP
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| posted on 29/7/05 at 07:39 AM |
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nige has the right approach. I would recommend taking a full set of half inch impact sockets, hammer, half inch drive wrench and breaker bar, a saw,
and ideally an impact wrench and compressor. Some bolts are very difficult to do, specifically the prop bolts as they are threadlocked and fiddly to
get to. I drop the sub frame off and do these ones last. Also, dont forget the exhaust rubbers. Saw them off, jump on the exhaust and drag the
subframe out over it  I undo the shocker at the top, it usually a lot less siezed and it leaves you a good grip to pull it by.
The one bit i have trouble with is the handbrake cables, never managed to undo them and they are a bugger to saw in two. Any tips anyone? they always
seem stuck on at the wheels, and inaccessable at the lever. 
ditto james, but only necessary if its a disc braked car.
[Edited on 29/7/05 by JoelP]
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 29/7/05 at 08:07 AM |
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Exhaust, propshaft and handbrake cables..............................cordless angle grinder is king!!!
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Jon Bradbury
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| posted on 29/7/05 at 08:56 AM |
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Probably stating the obvious, but...
...if you're going to drop the entire axle out first be very careful as it is quite heavy. Take a trolley jack to support the diff and you
should be able to lower it in a controlled fashion.
(Assuming the bodyshell is raised in some way)
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DarrenW
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| posted on 29/7/05 at 10:13 AM |
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I managed to remove the hub nuts off a beam that i had removed before loosening them. i locked a pry bar in the wheel studs, stood on the pry bar and
beam to hold it down and used suitable socket on a long power bar. It was insanely tight but did come off after a bit of sweat and grunt. Spray some
WD40 on the bolts before you start dismantling, it might help.
I had the advantage of a forklift truck to lift the car before dismantling - this made things somewhat easier (usual safety rules apply).
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