pekwah1
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 03:53 PM |
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Braking to the left
Alright guys,
Haven't had a massive chance to look at this yet but my car is locking on the left before the right.
It does pull a bit to the left if I don't lock so definitely more braking force o the left.
I can also lock both front quite easily if I smash the brakes so both work.
Have bled the brakes today which didn't make any difference.
Any bright ideas of what this could be?
Regards
Andy
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JimSpencer
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 04:04 PM |
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Corner weights are out on the front?
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steve m
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 04:11 PM |
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M8
While we bled the brakes today, it was the left front that even with the bleed nipple undone, you still had a quite a hard pedal
but we did get some air out ?
Could you have a seized piston ?
Might be worth whipping the wheel off, and removing one pad, put a spanner in to stop the piston coming right out and apply the brakes, then push the
piston back in, using the spanner, I would do this a few times
then do the other pad/piston the same way
This would reveal if you have one side of the calliper possibly seizeing
The other option, is the right hand side working properly ?
Steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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hughpinder
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 04:25 PM |
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I think 'steve m' will be right and it a sticky caliper!
Hugh
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Oddified
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 04:27 PM |
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If it pulls a bit to the left under normal braking as well as locking easier, it's likely to be sticking piston/s on the rhd side, or
contaminated brake pads.
Ian
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 04:31 PM |
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Stuck calliper, if you have old style Cortina/Escort M16 callipers it will either be a pad seized in the calliper or piston siezed.
With floating single piston callipers as on the Sierra it could be the above or the calliper stuck on the guide pins or the retaining steady clip
is missing.
[I] What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 04:34 PM |
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I forgot to say don't use WD40 or similar as it turns the seals hard and is probably what caused the problem in the first place.
[I] What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 04:54 PM |
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I had this problem a little while ago - a REALLY good brake bleeding session sorted it out (I must have had a bubble on one front side).
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pekwah1
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 08:10 PM |
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Cheers for the comments guys.
Ill check out the pistons....
Regardless, should the pedal be rock hard even with the bleed nipple open?
It was hard work pressing it with the left nipple open, all other brakes bled fine without a rock hard pedal...
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mjkh
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 08:15 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
Regardless, should the pedal be rock hard even with the bleed nipple open?
No it shouldn't.
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pekwah1
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 08:18 PM |
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Well obviously it shouldn't :p
But what would cause this??
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 08:24 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
Cheers for the comments guys.
Ill check out the pistons....
Regardless, should the pedal be rock hard even with the bleed nipple open?
It was hard work pressing it with the left nipple open, all other brakes bled fine without a rock hard pedal...
Get some bod to push and hold the pedal down while you remove the nipple and clean it out.
If clearing the the nipple doesnt work I it would point to a braided hoses blocked, a couple of times I have encountered braided lines with the
end fittings not drilled through.
Bleeding is highly unlikely to fix the problem anyway, it was different in the old days of drum brakes where a substantial volume of fluid had
to be moved and the brakes tend to grab because leading shoe type brakes self-servo.
[I] What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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paulf
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 10:46 PM |
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I had the same problem and after messing about bleeding the brakes and removing and freeing off pads it was still the same .I eventually sorted it by
altering the corner weights by winding up the rear drivers side a bit at a time until the fronts locked evenly.Ideally you should use a corner weight
gauge but I just did it by trial and error on a quiet road.
Paul
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steve m
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| posted on 18/12/13 at 11:14 PM |
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Andy,
we have some idea's above !!
steve
Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at
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mcerd1
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| posted on 19/12/13 at 09:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
Regardless, should the pedal be rock hard even with the bleed nipple open?
It was hard work pressing it with the left nipple open, all other brakes bled fine without a rock hard pedal...
^^ go with BT's suggestion and clean out the nipple first
if that doesn't work you'll need to work your way back up the lines, cleaning or checking at each point / union until you find the
problem...
[Edited on 19/12/2013 by mcerd1]
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Peteff
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| posted on 19/12/13 at 10:00 AM |
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Crack a pipe joint and press the pedal just to see if it goes down.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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