Fred W B
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 05:49 AM |
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Help please with wheel selection dilemma (pictures) for CANAMSA
As those who have been following my posts will know, I am building a midengined car that I want to look like a 60's period Canam sports racer,
mainly inspired by the Lola T70 spyder, although I am not trying to build an absolutely exact replica.
Originally, the T70 spyder used 15" x 8J (front) and 15" x 10J (rear) wheels (As the Lola's got older, they were fitted with even wider
wheels). These are Halibrands
 
donahue 70
Others used wheels like this.
 
Inspiration - Lola T70 Spyder
Halibrands are of course available as replicas, but I would prefer not to have to pay approx 250 pounds plus per wheel. Also I am using a Cortina
front upright, with Audi front hubs modified to Ford PCD at the rear, and the Halibrand reps available all seem to be 5 stud fitment, to suit
Cobra/GT40. So, in order to get on with the build with a view to upgrading later, I bought some cheap aftermarket steel wheels usually sold for
Landrover etc, in 15" x 7J and 15" x 8J. I modified the centres to suit the Ford fitment and had them painted.
 
29oct05 engine in
Problem is, I ended up with a front offset of almost zero, which means I will probably have to modify the Cortina upright (or the wheel) to get a
sensible scrub radius. Or make a completely new upright?
So I had pretty much decided to buy a set of 7J and 8J Supalites, as made by Performance Wheels in Australia. The 7J's are available with a 25 mm
positive offset, which helps a lot. I think the Supalites will look great in the charcoal colour, with a polished lip. Unfortunately, they are not
available in a 15 x 10J. (The steel wheels will not be wasted, as I can use them on the rear, fitted with slicks I have available, if I want to run
the car on the drag strip)
 
supalight
But then the SA agent of Performance Wheels suggested their Challenger model, which is available in 15 x 10J. Unfortunately, the Challenger 8J is only
available with a 9 or 24 mm negative offset, so I will have to use a Challenger 7J on the front, which has only a 8 mm positive offset.
 
chall platt
 
chall 8
Initially, I thought they were ugly, but they are starting to grow on me. They do (maybe) look vaguely similar at a glance to the wheels on the blue
lola above and the Foreman P4 used similar looking wheels.
 
foremann
 
p4 engine
So, do you guys think the Supalites are the way to go, or the Challengers, in which case I can have my 10" rears, without paying spilt rim
prices.
Rereading my post, I think that the challengers might actually look great with the rim polished, but the spoke edges left charcoal?
Cheers
Fred WB
[Edited on 8/2/06 by Fred W B]
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Sven
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 06:21 AM |
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Panasports or Super/Mini lites seem to work on just about anything. But those Challengers are the way to go for looks, IMO.
-Steve
"Lightheadedness through quickness"
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Danozeman
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 06:35 AM |
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I like these.
[img][/img]
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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donut
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 07:35 AM |
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Super wide Supalites look the biz imho
Andy
When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/andywest1/
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Hammerhead
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 07:37 AM |
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I like these aswell ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
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ditchlewis
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 08:25 AM |
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it's the superlite for me all the way. they have allways been retro and look good on any car modern and old. (look at audi with their RS wheels,
very Minilite looking).
imho first impressions last and are usually right. got for the superlite.
Ditch
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jimmyjoebob
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 09:04 AM |
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Superlights look awesome. In choosing wheels in the past, I have superimposed wheel pic onto side image of vehicle in 'Paint'. Gives some
idea if not entirely convinvced!
If at first you don't succeed, hide all evidence you ever tried!
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Fred W B
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 11:11 AM |
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Thanks for replies guys, looks like its 50 / 50 so far.
I found another pic of an original
 
T70 WHEEL
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Fred W B
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 11:31 AM |
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and this is a replica from http://www.cultsportscars.com
 
red gold 70
"
[Edited on 8/2/06 by Fred W B]
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v8kid
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 12:48 PM |
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Fred,
How difficult was it to modify the centers to ford pattern? By coincidence I need 15*19 &15*8 and can't justify the cost of alloys just to
try out slick tyres for fun. Yoiur solution sounds OK. BTW there are threads on the running gear forum on front upright manufacture by - rorty- I
think?
David
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Fred W B
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 01:22 PM |
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Thanks David, I have been following the upright threads with interest.
To modify the wheels:
The landrover type wheels have a very large centre bore, such that there is no material where you would drill your new pcd.
I had new centres lazer cut out with an undersize centre bore and the outer diameter such that is was bigger than the outside of the existing bolt
holes in the wheels .
The thickness of the new centres were 3 mm more than the original wheel centres
I had a step machined in the thickness of the new centre plates, that was a good fit in the wheel centre, and to the same thickness as the original
wheel centres.
Clamping the new plate to the back of the wheel face, it could be plugwelded to the wheel through the original bolt holes
The outer diameter of the new plate was welded to the back of the wheel face and metal finished off flush
The outer diameter of the step in the new plate was welded to the front of the wheel face (on the edge of the original centre bore)
The wheel was set up in a lathe and the undersize centre bore cut out to the required size, and the bolt holes marked out, then drilled and
chafered
Trust the above is clear. Maybe I should have tried to post a sketch.
Cheers
Fred WB
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v8kid
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 02:17 PM |
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Clear as a bell Fred no need for sketch Thanks David
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tadltd
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| posted on 8/2/06 at 11:01 PM |
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Can't you get the wheels from Cult Sports Cars?
Best Regards,
Steve.
www.turnerautosport.com
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locost_bryan
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| posted on 9/2/06 at 02:59 AM |
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The Challenger looks very like the wheels favoured by a certain Italian marque during the '70s  , and also very like the Globe Bathurst wheel
that was fitted to the Ford Falcon GTHO's that won the Bathurst 500 mile race in the early '70s.
Is 4x4.5" strong enough, when the original Lola had 6 studs? Most production cars go to 5 stud over 2.5 litres.
Bryan Miller
Auckland NZ
Bruce McLaren - "Where's my F1 car?"
John Cooper - "In that rack of tubes, son"
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Fred W B
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| posted on 9/2/06 at 11:31 AM |
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quote:
Can't you get the wheels from Cult Sports Cars?
I just sent them a mail (in New Zealand) - lets see if they reply?
quote:
is 4x4.5" strong enough,
I'll let you know
Cheers
Fred WB
[Edited on 9/2/06 by Fred W B]
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Fred W B
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| posted on 10/2/06 at 05:30 AM |
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Got a nice reply from cult sports cars. I had attached some photos of my project
Quote
"Fred,
Thanks for your email. Like the project. Audi transaxle I take it? What
are the exhaust?
Now on the wheels happy to have your enquiry. The wheels on the Red
original car SL73/130 are made per car and have been getting more difficult
to acquire so we are going to make patterns and cast our own. We agreed to
go ahead yesterday.
They will be to the original spec (15 x 8 & 15 x 10) so I will have to get
the offset numbers. No price or delivery as yet so hard to commit.
I can come back to you when we have more details
Get that car moving and come over and race it with us. Attached is a pic of
a CULT T70 "Period 289".
Regards, David Harvey
Un quote
 
cult motor
[Edited on 10/2/06 by Fred W B]
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Ratman
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| posted on 14/2/06 at 11:59 PM |
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I used Challengers in my build (as in avatar), but I was thinking of changing to "superlite"s (look like minilites) because they have them
in 16".. I think. But I think I prefer the look of Challengers after all these years. Brian
One more thing. With the Challengers, the offset changes with the rim width to maintain a close to zero offset. This means that the
"spokes" slope outwards for a 7" rim and slope inwards for a 6" rim. I've got 6" on the front and 7" on the
rear and this difference in spokes seems to accentuate the rim width difference visually. I quite like the look.
[Edited on 14/2/06 by Ratman]
[Edited on 16/2/06 by Ratman]
[Edited on 16/2/06 by Ratman]
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