graememk
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| posted on 5/8/10 at 07:35 PM |
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ca18det info wanted
any one know much about the engine, i'm also looking fot a dipstick and turbo oil and water lines.
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RazMan
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| posted on 5/8/10 at 07:42 PM |
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Have you looked on
http://www.sxoc.com/
Loads of info and you will get the oil & water lines there too.
Cheers,
Raz
When thinking outside the box doesn't work any more, it's time to build a new box
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Norfolkluegojnr
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| posted on 5/8/10 at 08:28 PM |
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I blew the bottom end on one if that counts
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 5/8/10 at 10:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by graememk
any one know much about the engine, i'm also looking fot a dipstick and turbo oil and water lines.
you know more than you think 
as the engine is a genetic evolution of the CA18 ET 8valver in your car now.
few pros and cons though
DET rods and pistons are tougher, a DET can run 300-330hp if in good nick on std internals (and good mapping).
Bottom end has a crank ladder brace which stops block flex/crank walk, and can in fact be retro fitted to the ET.
Head of teh 16valver is a quantum leap better than the ET 8v motor. Breathes much better at top end, and DET revs to 7.5k as std. Much better inlet
manifold design and volume too.
Cons
most have been thrashed and they have a thirst for big end bearings if abused. To be fair the bearings are identical as in the 8v, but combo of 100k
miles of abuse on cheap oil and a crap sump design compared to the 8v, means that the poor old bearings can fail easily on track or high G
cornering.
Cams on the 16v are very mild, a common trick is to fit a second exh cam on the inlet side with a vernier pulley which along with a T28 turbo from a
later S14 200SX should see good power and better spread of power for drivability too.
i have electronic manuals and parts lists for the engine if you want them, drop me an email or PM.
i run a heavily modified 8v ET (MSA class regs means i cant use a DET 16v) using forged pistons and steel rods designed for the 16v, along with a
trick cam headwork, canadian spec CA20 inlet manifold and KA24 TB with a bespoke Turbo Technics T28 hybrid, but a DET 16v is a cheaper alternative (if
in good nick).
if you want more info or pics etc, drop me a mail
CNH
[Edited on 5/8/10 by CNHSS1]
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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Doofus
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| posted on 6/8/10 at 08:22 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CNHSS1
and a crap sump design compared to the 8v
Is is worth Graeme keeping the 8v sump then? and will it fit straight on?
Same oil pump fitting and bolt pattern?
Paul.
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graememk
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| posted on 6/8/10 at 09:19 AM |
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i think the outer of the sump is the same but theres something different on the inside
oh and 300-330hp thats more than a duratec as well.
[Edited on 6/8/10 by graememk]
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 6/8/10 at 01:35 PM |
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it gets a bit involved swapping some bits between the ET & DET unfortunately. The DET sump is dimensionally almost identical, but the oil pump fit
is different (although both oild pumps fit both blocks...). The problem comes IMHO with the windage splash plate. On the 8v its solid and only has a
small cutout around the pickup strainer with a couple of small slots at the edges. Basically when you create high cornering or launch loads, the oil
cant easily escape to the rear shallow section of the sump. The DET 16v version has a much larger area cut away for the strainer to pass through, and
the splash plate is full of louvres! as the DET has a higher std output and potential for even more (bigger T25 turbo than ET 8v T2) and thicker rods
tougher pistons, when you do launch hard the oil leaps through the louvres and up the back of the sump leaving teh strainer to suck on fumes! Progress
eh?
you cant drop the ET sump onto the 16v bottom end though as the strainer is offset on the 16v and central on the 8v. If you fit the sump, oil pump and
strainer, then the cranknose is a different diameter so that means changing to the 8v crank and flywheel (8vs 6hole, 16vs 8 hole).
teh 16v block does have oil piston squirters though, which squirt up under the spition crown and onto the littel end of the rod. This keeps the crown
cooler reducing chances of engine-wrecking detonation, the trubo engines nemesis.
In an ideal world, use the 16v engine, but with a sump with the baffle plate modified to look like the 8v version and that will improve things 100%.
If you are running slicks on track then maybe an Accusump for safety too.
The DETs a cracking little engine although their rep for big ends is generally through abuse, if you find a decent one (hear it running), then rip the
sump off and change the bearings as a precaution and itll be fine.
as for keeping the 8v, thats what ive done due to MSA sprint/hillclimb regs, and essentially you try and mirror the DET 16v mods. I have the 8v blocks
machined to take the piston squirters, fair bit of head work to improve breathing over 5k rpm, a trick Autosprint cam, DET throttle body and use
either the std DET rods and pistons with a thicker metal head gasket (drops CR a tad) or i run forged pistons and steel rods with a MIG wire ringed
block. Basically you need to decide how many ponies you want and more importantly how and where you want the power (8vs arguably marginally better
low/mid torque). If you have a good 8v ET and want to see a genuine 170-180brake a few cheap mods will do it (most of our championship guys run to
this spec), but my ET 8v with all the trick goodies sees 282hp/266ft/lb but that doesnt come cheap, much cheaper to get a DET if thats the figs you
are aiming for.
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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CNHSS1
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| posted on 6/8/10 at 01:46 PM |
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8v ET block with main oil gallery modded to take oil piston squirters
8v ET sump
16v DET sump for comparison
8v ET fitted with a ladder brace for the main caps that i have made to fit the std ET sump but mimic the cast iron DET version (same stiffness, just
smaller neater and about 1/3rd the weight!!
"Racing is life, everything else, before or after, is just waiting"---Steve McQueen
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TomK
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| posted on 8/8/10 at 11:31 AM |
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Has anyone succesfully fitted a ca18det engine and box to a 7 style kit? If so do you have any info on it.
I've got a fully forged rebuilt ca sitting in the corner of my garage and was considering sticking it in a kit over winter as a track day
toy.
Which kit would be best suited to it?
Thanks for any help.
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graememk
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| posted on 9/8/10 at 06:45 PM |
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i have a ce18et in mine atm and i'm just about to put a det in, theres loads of room.
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PuppiesBalls
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| posted on 1/9/10 at 04:09 PM |
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Ive got a ca18det in my Stylus & it goes like stink!! Ive acutally just finished a complete rebuild including h-beam rods, forgied pistons, tomei
cams & pulleys, new oil & water pumps, all cometic gaskets, custom intake manifold & lots more
Let me know what parts you need matey i've got loads which i no longer need including a dipstick & turbo lines, Heres a list of bits
surpluss bits
Standard Injectors
Standard Cluch & fly
Crank girdle
4x standard pistons & rods
coil pack mount
coil pack
water pump
water pump pulley
turbo elbow
cam belt guides
auto & manual flywheel bolts
flywheel washer thing
Solid alloy pulley
Alloy power steering pulley
Cambelt cover including back plate
I have also got a mount made up for the camshaft sensor meaning you can remove that standard cam cover making it easier to adjust your cams, aswell as
reducing some overall height
Oh Ive got a spare Stage 3 horsham developments chip & socketed ECU which is the limit of a standard CA18det @ approx 330 bhp
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