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Author: Subject: Sierra CV boots - replacing them (push in type)
Mr Whippy

posted on 2/11/20 at 12:45 PM Reply With Quote
Sierra CV boots - replacing them (push in type)

Made a bit of a job for myself really with this one.

One of the CV boots had a small nick in it from something like a grinder (not me honest) so I thought I'll just get a new boot and split the joint, easy. Cut off the old boot and then I looked a the the Haynes manual... Oh wonderful the joint doesn't split (it's the drum brake model), only way to get it off is to replace the whole joint. Did think of using a cone to stretch the boot over but damn it's tough even heating it up in boiling water anyone done this a better way?

Thanks

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nick205

posted on 2/11/20 at 12:56 PM Reply With Quote
I bought CV overhaul kits when reconditioning my Sierra donor drum drake push-in drive shafts. You had to split and remove the metal canister as well and the kit came with new metal canisters. Time consuming, but satisfying job. Once done mine never leaked or caused and issues. FYI I got the o CV overhaul kits from my local Ford main dealer. They were new old stock. No idea if the kits would still be available now though. I'd scan Ebay and speak to the likes of Burton Power to see what options are out there.

I once let a local mechanic near me fit one of those wrap around gaitors and it failed within months - rubbish!

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Mr Whippy

posted on 2/11/20 at 01:08 PM Reply With Quote
ahh thought as much, I should have used superglue... particularly annoying seeing that they are so low miles what a stupid design

Thanks

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MikeR

posted on 2/11/20 at 01:30 PM Reply With Quote
the proper seirra kit isn't available - i got the last ones from my dealer about 10 years ago.

J&R drive shafts (birmingham) do replacement drive shafts that fit but are a little different. They don't do replacement / repair kits. The diff side 'can' on the new drive shaft is bigger which means on my setup you can't pull the drive shaft out of the car but have to remove the 230ftlb nut, split the joint and remove the drive shaft by pulling it towards the road wheel till it gets stuck (and thus free from the diff) and then push it back over the diff.

Pain in the arse!

However it does mean somewhere, some car has a replacement can that will fit the joint and a rubber boot that fits the can ..... we just need to find it. For some reason i think its VW but i have no evidence of this.

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ianhurley20

posted on 2/11/20 at 03:25 PM Reply With Quote
I used the cone method, plenty of lubricant and push - messy, so don't wear your best clothes, but not difficult






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rusty nuts

posted on 2/11/20 at 04:31 PM Reply With Quote
Have a word with your friendly local garage and ask if they have an air powered spreader, takes seconds and no struggling.
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nick205

posted on 2/11/20 at 04:55 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
Have a word with your friendly local garage and ask if they have an air powered spreader, takes seconds and no struggling.



Always pays to be friendly with a local garage. I've a couple locally who will do jobs for me that require hydraulic presses (I don't have one). Also pays to be friendly with a local fabricator for access to the odd bit of metal here and there.

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DavidW

posted on 2/11/20 at 05:22 PM Reply With Quote
I've replaced them with stretch boots. Not difficult, just requires a bit of strength.
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Mr Whippy

posted on 2/11/20 at 05:24 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks that's a good idea, I'll ask the garage up the road to fit it. I should have thought of that...
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DavidW

posted on 2/11/20 at 05:26 PM Reply With Quote
I've just remembered that I butchered either a plastic bottle or a funnel to use as cone.
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rusty nuts

posted on 2/11/20 at 05:40 PM Reply With Quote
If you do go ahead using a cone then cut it to size , use the correct lube (KY jelly works well ) support the driveshaft in an upright position , turn the boot inside out and wear a pair of gloves (not disposable) pull the boot over the cone without stopping before turning it so it’s outside out . The first time I ever saw a stretch boot fitted that way it was a mere slip of a girl demonstrating them . Before then it was like putting a condom on an elephant!
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Mr Whippy

posted on 2/11/20 at 07:18 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rusty nuts
If you do go ahead using a cone then cut it to size , use the correct lube (KY jelly works well ) support the driveshaft in an upright position , turn the boot inside out and wear a pair of gloves (not disposable) pull the boot over the cone without stopping before turning it so it’s outside out . The first time I ever saw a stretch boot fitted that way it was a mere slip of a girl demonstrating them . Before then it was like putting a condom on an elephant!


We are still taking about CV boots here....?

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Dingz

posted on 2/11/20 at 11:21 PM Reply With Quote
I’ve used the split glued ones, they have been fine for years.





Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.

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nick205

posted on 3/11/20 at 10:40 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dingz
I’ve used the split glued ones, they have been fine for years.


I'm sure they can be - probably as much to do with the way they're fitted. Making sure everything's clean and the bonding is done well with time for it to cure before allowing it to flex.

I guess I've been put off with a bad experience. There are some good and many bad mechanics out there though!

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Dingz

posted on 3/11/20 at 10:53 AM Reply With Quote
Cleanliness is the key





Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.

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steve m

posted on 3/11/20 at 12:09 PM Reply With Quote
Ive used the split covers a couple of times, and they appeared to be ok, but cleanliness is the key, and no grease any were near the rubber, untill its set hard
What i did, was get the old boot off, clean up the joint with petrol to get all the muck and old grease out, once clean cover the whole joint with cling film

Assemble the split cone over the shaft, and glue, tie string around all the ribs, to aid in its setting, once dry run a bead of super glue on the inside joint

once happy, a good hour later, remove cling film, fill the boot with grease, and fit the boot. and then remove the string

The last one i did was on a neighbours sierra. a good few years ago, and the boots went on for a few years

The split cv boots never worked well with front wheel cars, to much moving with steering and suspension, yet rear wheel drive cars have minimul movement

steve





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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Mr Whippy

posted on 3/11/20 at 12:31 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the replies

After further thought I left it with the local garage to deal with...

He said it would be ready to collect tomorrow

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