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Author: Subject: Powder coating cost - or paint?
christim

posted on 27/4/16 at 02:34 PM Reply With Quote
Powder coating cost - or paint?

Hi all,

Does anyone know roughly how much it would cost to powder coat my chassis? I want to get a ballpark figure before I start asking for quotes, so I know I'm not being ripped off.

AND..am I right in thinking that powder coating is the way to go over paint? I've been a'searching on here an some threads are saying paint is better?

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Slimy38

posted on 27/4/16 at 02:38 PM Reply With Quote
I'm going for paint. I'm working on the assumption that at some point in the build (or out on the road) the coating will get chipped, damaged, worn away etc. To touch up paint is infinitely easier than touching up powdercoat.
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rdodger

posted on 27/4/16 at 02:44 PM Reply With Quote
I got my chassis, wishbones etc and ally panels powdercoated for 275.






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nick205

posted on 27/4/16 at 02:49 PM Reply With Quote
Not sure on cost to have a chassis powder coated or painted, but I'm just having a steel MTB frame and rigid forks shot blasted and powder coated for 70.00 all in. That seems reasonable to me given they've got to blast of tough as hell old powder coating first.






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Dave Bailey

posted on 27/4/16 at 03:17 PM Reply With Quote
I got mine done cheap which was 300.00 but it had 50 micron hot zinc spray then semi gloss two Pak. It has been great...

Dave B

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Doctor Derek Doctors

posted on 27/4/16 at 03:38 PM Reply With Quote
I've just had the Single Seater blasted and powder coated for 250 + VAT, my Locost was enamel coated for 300. The powder coat looks better now but I suspect that it wont last as well or be repairable as the enamel coating.





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Matt21

posted on 27/4/16 at 06:03 PM Reply With Quote
I was at a powder coaters getting some small bits done and they mentioned they were setting up another place big enough to take chassis.
I asked for a rough idea on cost and he said it would be around 200!!!

They do stuff like jcb buckets and parts and they electro plate them before powder coating, so if the coating gets chipped it wont rust!

Seemed like an awesome price!, I'll dig the name out for you, they're in the Hartlepool area but I think the new place was nearer Bishop Aukland, if that's any use?





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raptor700
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posted on 27/4/16 at 08:52 PM Reply With Quote
I got mine shot blasted and powder coated it was 250 the guy said he should have charged 350 it had a full cage it is really thick and when I picked it I
Thought it was still wet it was immaculate .
That included 8 a arms as well

When you say paint you mean brush or at a spray shop , neither are anywhere near as good as powdercoat by a mile and wouldn't entertain either .
My opinion tho

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Bluemoon

posted on 27/4/16 at 10:27 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dave Bailey
I got mine done cheap which was 300.00 but it had 50 micron hot zinc spray then semi gloss two Pak. It has been great...

Dave B


That's a good combination; wish I had gone for Hot Zinc spray did the cost include the hot zinc (I guess not).

Powder coat is good but only if done well, as for any finish it's all in the preparation.

Bad powder coats are probably worse than bad paint coating and it's difficult to correct.


Dan

[Edited on 27/4/16 by Bluemoon]

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christim

posted on 28/4/16 at 03:47 PM Reply With Quote
Cheers all. Looks like I'm ok going down the powder coat option then. There's a few places around Leeds so got some options.
Some offer a full 'blast - zinc plate - powder coat' option which should give the best protection I guess. Best get finishing the chassis now!

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Jenko

posted on 28/4/16 at 03:48 PM Reply With Quote
Mine was around 250 for everything (including panels).....

Word of caution, ensure the powdercoaters give it a good shot blast first.





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raptor700
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Building: MK INDY R GSXR 1000 K5. Now sold..... Ready for th

posted on 30/4/16 at 06:10 AM Reply With Quote
I didn't realise you was on Leeds so am I , I got mine done on castle ford and its immaculate and really thick

I use Midas touch for all my boys but there oven isn't big enough so he used his mates oven in ponty.

Highly recommended . My car is on show at stoneleigh

Hall 1 stand 66 MK Indy rr black / white

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christim

posted on 3/5/16 at 08:26 AM Reply With Quote
I had a wander over to your stand (afraid you weren't there at the time) and I had a nosey at the car..the powder coating looks really well done and finished nicely. That's definitely an option for me! Thanks for the advise
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alfas

posted on 3/5/16 at 01:11 PM Reply With Quote
i vote for powdercoating...as long as its done right:

1. blasting
2. de-greasing
3. phosphating (for steel surfaces)
4. powder

thermallicy aplied zinc would be also fine to do b4 step3.


if you hot-dip galvanize the chassis you even save powedercoat and / or paint....and it would last forever with no corosion anymore.

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Mark100

posted on 21/6/16 at 02:41 AM Reply With Quote
i know a good contact for powder coat with nickel base coat and its local to us 100 150 ish
Carnt belive how local you are and I haven't seen you out and about im whinmoor to chap

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Irony

posted on 21/6/16 at 08:42 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by alfas
i vote for powdercoating...as long as its done right:

1. blasting
2. de-greasing
3. phosphating (for steel surfaces)
4. powder

thermallicy aplied zinc would be also fine to do b4 step3.


if you hot-dip galvanize the chassis you even save powedercoat and / or paint....and it would last forever with no corosion anymore.


You can't Galvanize a seven chassis because apparently it'll bend due to heat.

I'd vote for paint over powder coat. I have had bad experiences with powder coat. Rusting underneath the powder coat. When I strip my car I am going to spray with Jotamastic 87 and then Jotamastic Hardtop Flexi top coat. Its designed for extreme rust protection and designed for marine submersion.

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mcerd1

posted on 21/6/16 at 11:44 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Irony
You can't Galvanize a seven chassis because apparently it'll bend due to heat.

^^ if you think you get alot of distortion from welding then just try galvanising - molten zinc is at least 420C

it can get even worse if your tubes are cold formed rather than hot finished ones (eg. EN 10219 rather than EN 10210)

[Edited on 21/6/2016 by mcerd1]





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coozer

posted on 21/6/16 at 02:39 PM Reply With Quote
And galvanizing will double then weight of your chair!!!





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christim

posted on 21/6/16 at 09:10 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mark100
i know a good contact for powder coat with nickel base coat and its local to us 100 150 ish
Carnt belive how local you are and I haven't seen you out and about im whinmoor to chap


Still building mate (see Chris' haynes build thread for progress!) hoping to be finished for next year, and will definitely be on the roads a lot then

I've got a couple of places lined up. One Guisely one Castleford, not one of those is it? Could you U2u me the details?

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