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Author: Subject: Striker rear tub advise, and Rear wheel arch protectors
t3nay
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Building: Always improving my Sylva Striker, MK2 Escort Mexi

posted on 9/5/20 at 10:34 PM Reply With Quote
Striker rear tub advise, and Rear wheel arch protectors

I’m tidying up the bodywork on my striker and doing a full re-spray. Has anyone had any problems with the rear tub gel coat cracking on the rear corners near the boot cut out?
Any advice on strengthening it to stop or prolong it for happening again would be appreciated.
Also, can anyone recommend a material for protecting the front of the rear arches from stone chips?
Cheers

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nick205

posted on 10/5/20 at 07:36 AM Reply With Quote
Never had a stone chip issue on the rear arches on my MK Indy. If I had I'd have been more inclined to fit some dangling flaps to the trailing edges of the front cycle wings of it to avoid gravel kick up. Just my personal thought by the way.

If you're looking to cover existing stone chip marks then I'd probably cut some 1mm thick. alloy sheet to size (cardboard templates) and rivet it to the front of the rear arches. Personally I'd not bond it on as trying get off later would be a PITA.

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peter030371

posted on 10/5/20 at 08:22 AM Reply With Quote
I have had a few cracks around the boot but only on a 15+ year old striker and they never got any worse than small cracks so I just lived with them. If yours are bad maybe your rear section needs more support to stop it flexing in use?

For the rear wings RAW make covers for not a lot of money, think they start at £45. The rear wings are a compound curve i.e. curve two ways at once so making your own is very difficult unless you are a pro panel beater from recent Facebook messages it's sounds like RAW are making a batch of rear wing protectors now. The protectors get chipped but are cheap enough to replace every few years

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Slater

posted on 10/5/20 at 11:03 AM Reply With Quote
Clear vinyl wrap for the rear arch protectors might be good idea, easy to replace when they get worn. Mud flaps fitted to bottom of cycle wings would reduce the stones too. I have both fitted to my kit.





Why do they call Port Harcourt "The Garden City"?...... Becauase they can't spell Stramash.

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obfripper

posted on 10/5/20 at 01:59 PM Reply With Quote
My rear tub has been damaged in the past, however has not cracked in the places you describe, but it is glassed to the chassis which is very solid but is not removeable.
Has yours had a hood fitted? The holes that are drilled for fittings are a stress riser and would help to cause such damage.

Where mine was damaged i ground out all the cracks and anywhere the tub had delaminated from inside, then built up the inside using resin and csm, then ground the outside where damaged flat, applied csm first to a near level finish, then used fibreglass tissue to build the final layers, before the usual filler, 2k etch primer all over and 2k paint.

I've used real carbon laminate wrap for protection on the rear arches, however when i last replaced it the stonechip damage had gone through the wrap and caused some paint to come off with the old wrap. I just replaced with the same so i didn't need to repaint the backend, but the vinyl part of the laminate is not as durable as required.

For this reason i would recommend solid replaceable stoneguards instead, the clear 3m pu stonechip film may be a choice as it looks to wear well on the back end of Porsches, but i have not tried it myself.

Dave

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t3nay
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posted on 10/5/20 at 08:21 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for all the advise guys, much appreciated.

I have already bought some pvc mud flaps to hang from the front arches. I will look into the options for something to stick over the rear aches.

The cracks are only hairline cracks in the gelcoat, been the since I bought the car and have not got any worse in the last 8 years I’ve had it.
I think Dave’s right laying up some fresh matt on the corners won’t go a miss. I think I might also strengthen across the top of the tub near the boot cut out as this seems to flex easily.

Does anyone know it the boot floor is supposed to be part of the tub?
Mine has been bonded together with a strip of matt, it doesn’t look very well done, just wondered if it’s meant to be like that?

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peter030371

posted on 11/5/20 at 08:46 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by t3nay
Does anyone know it the boot floor is supposed to be part of the tub?
Mine has been bonded together with a strip of matt, it doesn’t look very well done, just wondered if it’s meant to be like that?


No hard and fast rule. My first Striker had the boot section bonded and riveted in and that made it part of the rear tub. I painted it with Hammerite Underbody Seal (smelly stuff and takes a few weeks to really dry but tough as old boots once on, also used it on the inside off all the fibre glass).

My current Striker currently has no boot just a cover. I may fit a boot liner one day but right now I don't need it for mainly track work

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