orbital
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| posted on 2/6/08 at 08:39 PM |
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Switch Gear
Hi All,
Well I'm slowly getting there sorting out what I'm going to do with new dash. Decided to remove the stalks and move everything onto my
dash, which is nice  Now my mind has turned to what switches and warning lights to use. I first thought of ali Savage switches but when you add them
all up it's seem an awful lot of money for some switch and lights! So I'm asking you, the good folk of the Locost site, what you've
got for your switches and warning lights?
I want something modern to go with the carbon dash, but not £15 a pop like the Savage ones, does such switchgear exist? or am I doomed to have my dash
look like something out of Chitty Chitty Bang Bang 
Cheers
Dave
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worX
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| posted on 2/6/08 at 08:52 PM |
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Hi mate!
First of all, have you let your beady ones wander over THIS post?
And then have a look
[url=http://www.premierwiring.co.uk/index.php?module=Website&action=Text&content=1133393725973-8435&parentContent=1133392767901-3830]HERE[
/url] for some alternative switches. I personally like the Delta range at the top - I know they are in older cars but I think they suit our style and
at £6 not pricey. I also like the Mini rocker switches (11th photo down)
ATB
Steve
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hoots_min
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| posted on 2/6/08 at 09:00 PM |
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I used switches and LEDs from uk.farnell.com
Huge range of options available which is actually a problem - but I like the result. I think my toggle switches were about £7 each but they are fully
IP68 rated as are the push buttons which were about £5 each. The starter button was a bit of a bargain at £2.50. Much cheaper than savage. The LEDs
were about £2 each. I went for IP68 rated switchgear, which is probably over the top and you pay more for this. Huge range out there if you look for
it!
 
Description
Today is a good day: I achieved new heights of ineptitude.
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tjoh84
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| posted on 2/6/08 at 09:09 PM |
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i had same prob but in the just spent the cash on savage
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orbital
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| posted on 2/6/08 at 11:14 PM |
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Cheers Steve (how did I miss that dashboard post!)
Hoots, How many switches! Just had a quick scan through some of them and they look very promising! Some nice gun metal ones which are illuminated and
I think would look very nice indeed. What should I be looking out for to make sure they would be OK to use in a car?
Cheers
Dave
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nick205
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| posted on 3/6/08 at 11:09 AM |
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One thing to consider if you're ditching all the stalks and moving all the switch gear to the dash board is whether you can reach everything
when you're strapped in. Sounds silly I know, but you'd be surprised 
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orbital
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| posted on 4/6/08 at 05:11 PM |
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No your right Nick and I've checked everything is within arms reach. Maan can you imagine how bad it would be if you went to all that work, to
then sit in the car the first day and not be able to reach the big start button
Cheers
Dave
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hoots_min
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| posted on 5/6/08 at 06:54 AM |
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A lot of switches I would agree! It took me a while to go through them and find ones that I liked and were suitable. My main remit was that they were
up to the conditions - wet and bouncy! Generally okay with most of the switches for vibration but they will sometimes say in the technical info that
it is suitable for vibrations too. A lot of the switches are industrial and would be installed on control panels for turbines, etc. so will see quite
a bit of vibration. But it may be worthwhile going for something mid range price wise.
One point to bear in mind is that the voltages for LEDs may not be the same as the switch! One blown LED later and realised this myself! They sell
cheap resistors too! Not sure if you know but the way to work out what resistor you need is: Resistance = (Vsupply-Vforward)/Current and then go up
resistance to the nearest standard resistor.
As I said I went for IP68 which in hindsight was probably a bit much - IP66 or even IP56 would be more than suitable. website telling you what each
means - www.ami.ac.uk/courses/topics/0196_ip/index.html
As you can see my switches are completely dust tight and suitable for deep immersion in water. Why would I need this? Brain freeze!
Great next day delivery and free postage and they resolve issues quickly. Like a free replacement for blown LED.
Today is a good day: I achieved new heights of ineptitude.
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iank
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| posted on 5/6/08 at 08:17 AM |
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Need to be quite careful where you site toggle switches if SVA is required.
Another option would be
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/switches/modular.php
Just looking at switches myself and they are frighteningly expensive for good ones that can take a bit of water.
hoots_min: How did you sort the side/main lights? I can't see an off-A-A+B switch in the range you used. Farnell are excellent.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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hoots_min
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| posted on 5/6/08 at 07:17 PM |
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My wiring was somewhat limited by the through bulkhead connector I used. Also from farnell was a SOURIAU connector which is a fraction of the price of
the same make connector from demon tweeks. But I only had 12 connections so wittled it down to a minimum but had to make a decision - I have
permanently wired my sidelights to be on when the power is on - also a safety feature.
However, the bottom push bottom on the right hand side is the button for the headlights -which is controlled by a relay due to current constraint of
connector. I had a hard time and spent many hours trying to figure out the configuration of the relays such that the head lights and full beam would
work properly.
So I have kind of cheated, I was fortunate my changes have been done post SVA but with relays and separate buttons there is no reason why you could
not achieve the 'off - A - A+B' but just a bit more complicated!
Today is a good day: I achieved new heights of ineptitude.
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Mark G
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| posted on 5/6/08 at 07:34 PM |
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As it happens I've just posted a thread about my switches, Is a cheap method as it cost less than £15 for everything.
CLICK ME
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orbital
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| posted on 5/6/08 at 07:37 PM |
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I like these, Kind of a poor mans
Savage switch
These ones look nice too.
Would they be upto the job hoots?
Cheers
Dave
[Edited on 083030p://1515 by orbital]
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hoots_min
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| posted on 6/6/08 at 11:46 AM |
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Both those switches look fine. My starter switch (which is the button half hidden by the steering wheel above the key) is a Schurter and got a nice
sturdy, industrial feel to them. Current is only 3A so depending upon what you plan to use them for may need a relay, but these are easy to wire up.
I couldn't find decent priced relays on farnell ( I think by the time i came to get some I was tired trawling through the range!) so ended up
getting some from demon tweeks with another order, for about £2.50 each.
They are both IP67 so easily good enough to handle the elements. The second switch is also suitable for fishing equipment/earth moving equipment etc.
so would say suitable for vibration. Only thing is it is a momentary switch, not sure if this is what you would be after. My push button switches are
ones that latch except for the starter switch.
[Edited on 6/6/08 by hoots_min]
Today is a good day: I achieved new heights of ineptitude.
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