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Author: Subject: Chassis Repaint
dellyend1

posted on 25/1/20 at 04:03 PM Reply With Quote
Chassis Repaint

Just thinking about getting under the car to inspect the chassis, rub down and re-paint as needed.

Just wanted to ask the collective on any tips, preferred paint etc before I commence.

Many Thanks

Jeremy

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se7ensport

posted on 25/1/20 at 06:01 PM Reply With Quote
Doing this at the moment, engine and box out, removed suspension, brakes and wiring.

Covered the chassis in Autotek ATOOOPS500 Paint Stripper Aerosol, leave for 15mins and then use a paint scraper. Repeat, then used angle grinder with wire wheel.

RX-90 red oxide in a can. Then ZH-90 zink in a can. Then finished with WRTH UNDER BODY UNDER SEAL PROTECTOR STONE CHIP GUARD BLACK.

Did the same to the rear of the car last winter, very happy with the result a year later.

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jester
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Building: brought Jester.building a Jester own a Striker

posted on 26/1/20 at 12:06 AM Reply With Quote
I asked the same question last year about painting the underside/axle (lots of rust)

What seemed to come up was what ever you do dont use hammer rite it's crap I had all ready painted the rear drums in it a few weeks before and yes it's crap it

chips very easy & rust's up again in a few weeks so a lot of time/money spent cleaning it all down for nothing

I have used POR 15 as a lot on here rated it on the back tubing it not cheap for all the parts you need but it goes of rock hard & give an excellent finsh

Not been able to finsh of the under floor pans as I have no heating or power so it's cold wet metal no good for painting .

Good luck with what ever you choose

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Angel Acevedo

posted on 30/1/20 at 12:08 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by se7ensport


RX-90 red oxide in a can. Then ZH-90 zink in a can. ...


Sorry for thread hijack.
Why Red Oxide before Zink?

In humid environment Id think the zinc rich coatings perform better than red oxide.





Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....

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MikeR

posted on 22/3/20 at 08:20 AM Reply With Quote
I'd also assume zinc first. What was the logic for red oxide first?
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rusty nuts

posted on 22/3/20 at 11:43 AM Reply With Quote
I used POR 15 probably ten years ago followed by Hardnose. topcoat , Its still as good as the day I painted the chassis
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MikeR

posted on 22/3/20 at 10:07 PM Reply With Quote
What prep did you do before painting?

I keep reading wire wheels polish the surface and make a bad prep surface

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rusty nuts

posted on 23/3/20 at 07:11 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by MikeR
What prep did you do before painting?

I keep reading wire wheels polish the surface and make a bad prep surface


I totally dismantled the car then stripped the chassis and all suspension components before using paint stripper and scrapers to remove the original powder coating. The chassis was then shot blasted before being prepared following the instructions on Frosts website. Apparently shot blasting bounces off powder coating without removing it except where it is loose.

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steve m

posted on 23/3/20 at 08:22 AM Reply With Quote
A good rust preventive primer/base coat, and then a good make of normal house hold gloss paint, as told to me
by a car restorer neighbour about 45 years ago,
He passed away years ago, but his Austin 7 that I helped rebuild with him about 46 years ago !! is still on the road,
and still looks like the day he finished it

steve





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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