jps
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| posted on 11/3/16 at 07:40 PM |
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Pocket sliding doors, anyone?!
Neither car, not locost, but it's amazing what people on here know about...
I had one of these fitted about a year ago:http://www.eclisse.co.uk/Products/Single/Single whilst we were having an extension done.
The chippy did not seem confident when he put it in (had never done one before) and now it's knackered...
I *think* the problem is that he cut the door too long, it dragged on the bottom and jumped the back roller off the rail at the top. I've got it
off the front roller too now but can't get the door out of the wall... The instructions for fitting are wonderfully blank about actually sizing
the door, apart from claiming it'll be "easily removable"...
So any advice from someone who has experience with these things would be VERY helpful!!!
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daviep
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| posted on 11/3/16 at 08:40 PM |
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Not fitted one myself but the website seems to indicate that the door is 75mm shorter than the external frame size. See
HERE or
HERE
Cheers
Davie
A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.
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jps
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| posted on 12/3/16 at 10:59 AM |
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Cheers, I guess that measurement is to allow the studwork around the frame to be sized right (once the frame is fitted into the wall the
'top' is not accessible).
I'm not sure what sort of clearances would be normal, currently the door overlaps about 3cm above the door jamb at the top, with about 3mm gap
at the bottom and when it's fully pulled across it is still about 15mm short of clearing the side of the frame... ( hence I can't get it
out). Wondering if it'd be normal for it to have less /no overlaps...
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DIY Si
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| posted on 13/3/16 at 12:11 AM |
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Having just fitted a different manufactures kit to my cottage, once fully fitted the door won't come out. The architrave round the opening
prevents the door from being taken out. If you pull off the pit across the top of the door (it should only have a few thin nails or pins holding it
in) you will see the two carriages that hold the door up, assuming they're still in position. If one has dropped off, it will be back in the
wall. It shouldn't have jumped the rails as the door is more likely to drop off/down. For mine to come out I have to unbolt the end stop and run
both carriages out of the ally track they run in.
Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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scudderfish
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| posted on 13/3/16 at 07:19 PM |
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When it does work, do you ever make Star Trek door noises with it?
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daviep
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| posted on 13/3/16 at 09:06 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jps
Cheers, I guess that measurement is to allow the studwork around the frame to be sized right (once the frame is fitted into the wall the
'top' is not accessible).
I'm not sure what sort of clearances would be normal, currently the door overlaps about 3cm above the door jamb at the top, with about 3mm gap
at the bottom and when it's fully pulled across it is still about 15mm short of clearing the side of the frame... ( hence I can't get it
out). Wondering if it'd be normal for it to have less /no overlaps... [/quote
Looks to me that in all instances the door panel is sized 75mm shorter than the frame work, so if you still have the details of the kit you fitted you
can work out the correct door height.
Looks like to remove the door you need to remove the door jambs first.
Cheers
Davie
A truly great library contains something in it to offend everyone.
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