So, while I've been preoccupied with Zero#2, zero#1 has obviously been feeling a little left out.
On the way back from the garage the car overheated. We pulled over and let her cool down, discovering on once home that there was a leak in the
cooling system. However, with the leak fixed and no obvious damage to anything else, the car is no longer starting. Its turning over absolutely as
normal and fuel is getting through but the ignition system no longer seems to be working. Removing the plugs and earthing with the engine shows no
spark but I;d be surprised if the coil pack had packed up.
Where do I go from here? Could it be a relay?
The only other thing I can think of is that the heat has fried some wiring but I;m not sure how best to diagnose the problem.
Of course, it could be entirely unrelated to the overheating but the car has never had starting issues before so it seems odd.
Many thanks,
Ron
It's really not been your day, has it!!
What loom are you using?
quote:
Originally posted by turnipfarmer
It's really not been your day, has it!!
What loom are you using?
big_wasa is the guy to sort that one out for you, faster than I ever could!
For a start see this Scannerdanner video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex1ChpWG1go&t=3s
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
For a start see this Scannerdanner video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex1ChpWG1go&t=3s
According to emerald:
"When wired correctly the ECU LED status light will be red when the ignition is on, and will go green when the ECU registers the engine turning.
If it stays red when you're cranking, then the ECU is not seeing the engine turning"
We are getting red then green so that would suggest it's not a crank sensor problem.
The standard ford coil pack has a 3 pin connector, centre pin should be 12v switched live. Pins either side are earthed via the ecu to fire cylinders 1&3 ,4&2 in pairs. If you are getting no spark at all and no misifes this would indicate a faulty 12v supply to the coil pack or complete failure. I would first check you are getting 12v on the centre pin of the coil pack plug with the ignition on & the ecu earths are good. The coil pack is triggered via the crank position sensor but as you have stated this is working correctly. If you have 12v on the plug then I would swap out the coil pack. If you don't have 12v then some wiring may have got wet when you overheated and blown a fuse...or got the coil pack wet and nackered that.
saw a clip on you tube where a ford engine was prevented from starting by a faulty engine coolant sensor.....it showed up in the fault code reader as a really low temp when the ambient temp was some 30 odd degrees higher and high voltage (4.5V) on replacing it the engine started immediately.
Both suggestions seem logical. The coolant sensor was something I was wondering about. Which of the various sensors on the engine need to be working correctly for the engine to run? For example, if you unplugged the air temp, oil pressure and coolant temp sensors, would the engine still run?
The engine needs crank position & throttle position to run, if you unplug the coolant or air then the emerald will just use a default value. But
the engine should still run all be slightly rough when cold. I would not think the coolant sensor is causing you issues but if you plug in a laptop to
the emerald and look on the live adjustments screen you should see a temperature reading
Regardless a faulty coolant sensor would not cause you to loose spark. It would only effect the fuel mixture. The only parts that can cause spark
issues are the Crank position sensor & coil pack