prawnabie
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| posted on 22/12/15 at 07:30 AM |
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Nice size garage! i built my westie mazda in a single garage - it was of the things that really pissed me off about the build.
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micksalt
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| posted on 22/12/15 at 08:24 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
Just check the transmission tunnel is offset......
I'll take a tape measure to it either tonight or tomorrow and check that it is.
quote:
Originally posted by l5tuy
The 4.4m van length came in handy for me, I slept in it :-)
Kwan green, good choice. Same as me, interesting as I was told they hadn't done now in years, plenty room for another 2 in the world:-)
I struggled with storage space for the tub, still am if I'm honest.
Good luck.
Stu
I thought it odd when Chris said that the 4.4 m van was the biggest he'd seen, because I could have sworn someone else had collected using the
same Sprinter. That other person was you of course. The green was actually my wife's choice, and I couldn't be happier with it. I was
going to go for Thomas the Tank Engine blue originally. A friend is building an S2000-powered SR2 in the same green, so that'll be two
Yorkshire-based kits in that colour in North Staffs / South Cheshire. I've got options where to put the tub, there's a big shed behind the
garage where it can go, or I might string it from the roof.
quote:
Originally posted by prawnabie
Nice size garage! i built my westie mazda in a single garage - it was of the things that really pissed me off about the build.
This is a single garage, it's just a very generously proportioned single garage. Not the previous owner of the house, but the one before that,
he used to build, race and maintain go-karts, which explains the big garage and large workshop shed to the rear.
One question for the MNR colective, are the internal panels just glued on? They're not aluminium, so I suspect they would split if I attempted
to rivet them. In fact, I would prefer to keep holes drilled into the chassis to a minimum. Thanks in advance.
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theduck
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| posted on 22/12/15 at 01:00 PM |
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Mick, this might sound a daft question, but did you used to be a postman?
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micksalt
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| posted on 22/12/15 at 01:10 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by theduck
Mick, this might sound a daft question, but did you used to be a postman?
I did not, newspaper boy was about the closest I came. Am I reminding you of someone you once knew?
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theduck
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| posted on 22/12/15 at 06:43 PM |
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Just knew someone that was once a postie and now lives, I think, in Stoke and is called Mick salt. Close but no cigar.
[Edited on 22/12/15 by theduck]
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jim87
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| posted on 22/12/15 at 09:42 PM |
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quote:
One question for the MNR colective, are the internal panels just glued on? They're not aluminium, so I suspect they would split if I attempted
to rivet them. In fact, I would prefer to keep holes drilled into the chassis to a minimum. Thanks in advance.
The plastic the panels are made of it pretty tough. I've no doubt riviting them would be fine. I did what it sounds like you want to do though,
and just glued them on with tiger seal. Slop a load of it on, and it's pretty strong stuff.
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micksalt
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| posted on 24/12/15 at 06:49 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
Just check the transmission tunnel is offset
Transmission tunnel was offset, didn't even have to get the tape measure out, it was very obvious. 
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micksalt
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| posted on 27/12/15 at 09:58 PM |
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Just rearranging the garage and I've just realised that I shouldn't have given away the brake servo. I now have no means of attaching the
master cylinder to the pedal. Now of course, there is no need for vacuum assistance, so I could just source a replacement servo and block off the
vacuum port, but is there a way of doing it more elegantly, perhaps even removing the servo altogether?
Not to worry, I've figured it out. You use a bolt underneath the pedal to act as a limit stop, and then recycle the push-rod from the old clutch
slave cylinder since the supplied Wilwood clutch cylinder already has a push-rod.
[Edited on 27/12/2015 by micksalt]
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sdh2903
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| posted on 28/12/15 at 11:58 AM |
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It'd funny you mention this as I was having the same head scratching moment last week. I've seen a couple of pics of the pedal stop but it
just doesn't rest easy with me that the bolt is a bit of a bodge on the pedal that will save your life. I emailed MNR about it who must be aware
of the issue as Marc is looking at turning up some new pushrods in the new year. Quite how he plans to retain the rod in the cylinder I'm not
sure.
I'm actually 50/50 on ditching the mx5 cyl and buying an aftermarket cylinder with a proper retaining fork and clevis pin.
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l5tuy
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| posted on 28/12/15 at 11:48 PM |
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I'm planning on disecting the servo in the next few days to reuse the crevice. Interesting to here that MNR are looking to into it, there are
numerous build logs that detail 'solutions' which makes me feel this problem has been reported back to MNR a few times. Think I'll
raise the question, I need to talk to them regarding the clutch reservoir anyway. Chris informed me this was offset to prevent clash with clutch slave
however now it clashes with brake reservoir.
STU
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sdh2903
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| posted on 29/12/15 at 04:27 PM |
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Ive had another look at this earlier. Im still not overly happy with the bolt stop in the floor, while i'm sure it would do a job it just
doesn't rest easy with me. Another thought i had was fitting a tether to the pedal maybe a steel cable to add a secondary device to prevent the
pushrod coming out.
Im actually straying towards ditching the mx5 master cylinder altogether as its quite a large bore for a non servo car at 22mm which in theory will
give a softer longer throw pedal and going for a westfield or catering van master cylinder. Maybe westfield dont use the mx5 cylinder in the sdv for a
reason.
Perhaps anyone who has used the mx5 cylinder in a kit could comment on how the brakes feel in the real world?
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micksalt
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| posted on 29/12/15 at 04:32 PM |
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To be fair, the bolt in the floor pedal stop is used in the Chris Gibbs book, but the pedal has a dedicated nub to engage with the bolt. I think
I'll leave the pedals until I see what Marc has come up with, then I won't have any unnecessary holes in the chassis.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 29/12/15 at 05:31 PM |
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Yeah am waiting to see what Marc comes up with, but he did say it would be end of Jan before he mastered his new lathe and am not sure if my
childlike patience will hold.
Anyway I'll stop filling your build thread with my ramblings!!
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jim87
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| posted on 1/1/16 at 01:04 PM |
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Yes, will be interesting to see how marc is going to fasten the push rod into the mx5 master cylinder.
Have you see this blog ?
http://fastcraft.biz/blog/?p=856
Its essentially just a pedal stop again, but might give you some ideas
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sdh2903
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| posted on 1/1/16 at 03:32 PM |
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Yeah have read that. Ive decided I won't be using the mx5 master cylinder. Its 22mm which is a bit big bore for non servo and will give a bit of
a dead pedal and I'm not comfortable with the bolt in the floor. I've gone for a fiat uno 19mm tandem master cylinder which should give a
better feel pedal. Has a retained push rod and is a brand new item. For the master cylinder, Pushrod and reservoir it's come in at less than 50
quid.
However depending on the next few days I may not need it as I may not carrying on with the build at all, so it might be available if you want it!
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micksalt
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| posted on 1/1/16 at 03:50 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
I've gone for a fiat uno 19mm tandem master cylinder which should give a better feel pedal. Has a retained push rod and is a brand new item. For
the master cylinder, Pushrod and reservoir it's come in at less than 50 quid
Can you point me in the direction of where you get these from? All the Uno ones I can find are non-retained. Cheers!
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sdh2903
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| posted on 1/1/16 at 03:54 PM |
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I got mine here
eBay Item
Pushrod here
eBay Item
It doesn't physically show the retaining circlip but I've been assured they do have one. I'll soon find out when it arrives in a few
days.
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sdh2903
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| posted on 1/1/16 at 03:56 PM |
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Advantage over the fiat 124 one which is popular is that it has standard M10 x 1.0 ports where's the 124 one has oddball coarse M10 x 1.25
ports.
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l5tuy
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| posted on 2/1/16 at 09:24 PM |
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I'm going standard mx5, couldn't decide on what alternative to use so went with the challenge of utilising the donor part. Bit of cutting
and welding, I'll post pics when I get a chance.
Stu
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micksalt
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| posted on 4/1/16 at 08:08 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
I got mine here
eBay Item
Pushrod here
eBay Item
It doesn't physically show the retaining circlip but I've been assured they do have one. I'll soon find out when it arrives in a few
days.
Let me know of the push rod is indeed retained, and what modifications you need to do to the bulkhead (if any). That could be the way I choose to go
too.
Yesterday was a very productive day. I had a bunch of administration work to do for the heritage railway event I'm organising
(shameless plug, but heck, it's a charity). Didn't get out to the car until 14:00 and thought I
wouldn't get much done. Instead I got the engine, front hub carriers, engine mounts and exhaust manifold sufficiently clean to take paint. Even
found my 1/4" 9 mm socket that had gone missing when I had dropped my toolkit a few days ago The only snag was that I'd positioned the
chassis with the front facing the garage entrance, and the engine and engine crane were behind it. Ended up having to drag the engine along the carpet
to the correct end of the car, Doh!
[Edited on 4/1/2016 by micksalt]
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micksalt
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| posted on 4/1/16 at 06:45 PM |
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Here's the problem I have, in the original Mazda pedal box that I photographed, the pedal was offset to the left, giving plenty of room to put
the stop-bolt in:
 
OldMazdaPedalBox
Probably in response to feedback that the brake and clutch master cylinders were too close together, the Mazda brake pedal has been updated to a more
central position. The only problem with this is that the chassis tube now prevents the use of a bolt-stop. I have confirmed with Marc that this is an
updated pedal design rather than a case of the wrong pedal being sent.
 
NewMazdaPedalBox
I've emailed Marc for advice, but they've got more pressing issues since there's no electricity to the workshop in the moment.
I'm sure a solution will come along shortly, I have every faith, particularly since there's talk of an updated push-rod too
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micksalt
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| posted on 5/1/16 at 11:09 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by jim87
http://fastcraft.biz/blog/?p=856
I've just read that properly and I'm not convinced that's a great solution. I can see that pedal stop bending and eventually
snapping with fatigue.
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jim87
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| posted on 5/1/16 at 11:21 AM |
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I did think the same actually. If I'd done that, I think I'd try to make it a bit sturdier
Is your pedal box welded to the chassis ? It looks like it is in your pic
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micksalt
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| posted on 5/1/16 at 11:30 AM |
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It is indeed welded to the chassis. I've noticed quite a few detail changes compared to the car I took reference photos from.
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micksalt
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| posted on 5/1/16 at 09:26 PM |
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As much fun as the prospect of building a kit car is, what is not so appealing is having to service the daily driver whilst lying in a puddle since
the garage is occupied.
However, having finished with the daily driver (just an oil change this time, nothing exciting), I got distracted by the kit again, specifically how
to seal my steering column top bearing from the elements. And then I had a great moment of
inspiration.
I love this hobby
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