nitram38
|
 posted on 29/1/09 at 03:50 PM |
|
|
MotaLeira R1 wiring questions
Only a couple of quick questions.
I started wiring the car today. Most of the runs are done.
Q1. I have an 18" fan for my rad and the R1 fuse is 15A. Is this enough, or will I have to use a relay?
Q2. Is there an output on the ecu where I can pick up a tach wire? Should I just use one off a coil?
I need a tach reading for my veypor dash and my gear indicator.
Cheers Martin
|
|
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 29/1/09 at 04:11 PM |
|
|
I'm running a 12" fan on the standard fuse and wiring. (don't know if that helps).
Adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
cloudy
|
| posted on 29/1/09 at 05:31 PM |
|
|
7.5 or 10A for mine (high power 8" ) so 15 should be about right. Isn't 18" overkill? mine brings the temps down to the fan off
point in about 10-15seconds with a high idle!
James
[Edited on 29/1/09 by cloudy]
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 29/1/09 at 05:39 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by cloudy
7.5 or 10A for mine (high power 8" ) so 15 should be about right. Isn't 18" overkill? mine brings the temps down to the fan off
point in about 10-15seconds with a high idle!
James
[Edited on 29/1/09 by cloudy]
It may be smaller, I am just to knackered to go measure it!
|
|
|
cloudy
|
| posted on 29/1/09 at 05:41 PM |
|
|
ps you sure you can't aim for SVA? sounds like you are just behind me and i'm aiming for end of feb - put it this way SVA + retest, far
cheaper than IVA....
[Edited on 29/1/09 by cloudy]
www.warnercars.com
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 29/1/09 at 05:49 PM |
|
|
I know but I have quite a bit to do and I work 84 hour weeks.
I also have a pending practical 2391 testing and inspection exam coming up so I must not forget how I make my money to build the car!
|
|
|
tks
|
| posted on 29/1/09 at 07:01 PM |
|
|
often there is an tach wire from the cpu which goes to the tachometer on the dash..
manytimes that wire is useable.
if it isn't you van always suply a coul ground side wire but its a far worse signal.
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
|
|
|
Paul (Notts)
|
| posted on 29/1/09 at 07:05 PM |
|
|
I run my vepor2 dash from the coil ..only reason, because it was simple and worked even when I switched to megajolt and twin coils.
Paul
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 31/1/09 at 03:44 PM |
|
|
Right, I have decided to run the tach to the coil as I don't know the pin-outs for the ecu (unless anyone has them?).
I am planning my immobiliser but I have a question regarding the transponder loop and paperwork.
It will be behind an aluminium panel so will it still pick up the tag which will be the other side?
Is there anyone who could sign off the installer paperwork for me?
|
|
|
Meeerrrk
|
| posted on 31/1/09 at 03:55 PM |
|
|
there should be a tacho feed to the original clocks, do you not have a wiring diagram?
For Sale : 2008 Aries/Stuart Taylor Motorsport Locoblade (954 Blade)
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 31/1/09 at 03:59 PM |
|
|
I do have the wiring diagram, but the wires just start and end in a square block without any indication of what they do.
|
|
|
Meeerrrk
|
| posted on 31/1/09 at 04:02 PM |
|
|
LOL thats not a very helpful wiring diagram. What engine is it, i may be able to help
Mark
For Sale : 2008 Aries/Stuart Taylor Motorsport Locoblade (954 Blade)
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 31/1/09 at 04:06 PM |
|
|
2005 R1 inj.
I do have a suspicion that it is one of the yellow with black trace cables that I removed from the connection to the dash plug when I stripped out
the bike loom. I have not cut any of these wires incase I need them. I am running a veypor dash. I still have the exup cables, although I will
probably remove those later.
|
|
|
Meeerrrk
|
| posted on 31/1/09 at 04:09 PM |
|
|
ok gimmie a sec i will just have a quick look at something i have
For Sale : 2008 Aries/Stuart Taylor Motorsport Locoblade (954 Blade)
|
|
|
Meeerrrk
|
| posted on 31/1/09 at 04:15 PM |
|
|
ok, from the document i have, it says tacho on yamaha is yellow/black & here is a bit of info if you are still unsure, to help confirm :
Finding Tacho Signal
To verify a wire is connected to the tacho signal, you need to measure the frequency
(Hz) with a multimeter. Set the multimeter to frequency, put the multimeter’s black
lead on the negative battery terminal and the multimeter’s red lead on the tacho wire. With ignition on and the engine running, the frequency should
vary
with RPM. Some multimeters may have trouble reading the tacho signal.
[Edited on 31/1/09 by Meeerrrk]
For Sale : 2008 Aries/Stuart Taylor Motorsport Locoblade (954 Blade)
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 31/1/09 at 04:17 PM |
|
|
Cheers for that.
There are two yellow with black trace wires but maybe they do the same thing.
Like you said, I will check them first.
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 31/1/09 at 05:55 PM |
|
|
Cheers Chris.
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 31/1/09 at 08:34 PM |
|
|
My immobiliser transponder loop is behind an ally' panel and works fine.
u2u sent.
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 31/1/09 at 08:53 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
My immobiliser transponder loop is behind an ally' panel and works fine.
u2u sent.
adrian
I'm no slouch when it comes to wiring it is just that I like to do things right first time!
I hate having to butcher stuff that does not work.
It is all of these niggly questions that arise once I get started
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 1/2/09 at 09:55 AM |
|
|
I have soldered the "stop" wires together and I am using a start switch for the starter.
I have an FIA switch to cut the battery (except hazards) and I intend to use the secondary switch on the Fia switch to turn off the ignition and so
cut the engine.
The fia switch only has one pair of NO and NC contacts so I have a problem switching the ignition off as I can only switch off one ignition pair.
I am planning to use the immobiliser to cut three circuits. Two of them being the ignition circuits and the other the starter circuit.
If I use this method, will simply cutting the ignition supply to the immobiliser, activate it and kill the ignition?
I don't want the engine to run on!
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 1/2/09 at 04:57 PM |
|
|
You only need to switch the main ignition circuit on your cut-switch. The secondary circuit can be perminently connected or switched through the
immobiliser.
The immobilisers don't normally arm untill 30 or so seconds after the power switches off and require a perminent feed to operate. That might be
a problem with the way your doing yours.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 1/2/09 at 05:59 PM |
|
|
You are talking about the red and brown/blue wires as the main ignition?
I was intending to break just one pair with the fia switch aux but wire both ignition pairs through the immobiliser as well.
I was worried that both pairs of wires had to be broken at the same time.
|
|
|
adithorp
|
| posted on 1/2/09 at 07:02 PM |
|
|
Yes, do it as you intended. Thats how mine is, altough the main switch is through a dash ignition key switch not like your fia one. Red and brown
through the switch as thats the main ignition circuit. The blue/black and blue/yellow wires can connect through the immobiliser (they power the start
logic circuit).
adrian
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
|
|
|
nitram38
|
| posted on 1/2/09 at 07:59 PM |
|
|
Excellant!
|
|
|
