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Author: Subject: engine positioning
jimbona2

posted on 3/10/07 at 11:34 AM Reply With Quote
engine positioning

this is actually from another thread regarding the engine posiitoning. does anyone think the engine looks higher at the back. Any suggestions why this might be.
Would it be something with the engine mounts or something to do with the clutch area?
thanks Rescued attachment DSCN0309.jpg
Rescued attachment DSCN0309.jpg

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azzacat

posted on 3/10/07 at 11:40 AM Reply With Quote
Yup looks odd, but may be normal for a Tiger, Check your gearbox mount, it just looks like the box is to high to me.
Although it has been known for tiger to send the wrong engine mounts out, pop your exhaust on and if the can is up high then its wrong..
Other than that looks like a nace build!!!
Well done!





Aaron

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jimbona2

posted on 3/10/07 at 12:15 PM Reply With Quote
well i havent got the fuelling system yet although i'm getting that when I get paid!!
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Paul TigerB6

posted on 3/10/07 at 12:20 PM Reply With Quote
have you got a picture of the gearbox mount?? Looks to be sitting rather high to me.

Paul

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flange nut

posted on 3/10/07 at 12:24 PM Reply With Quote
This may be a stupid question, but have you got the rubber engine mounts fitted between chassis and engine?

Geoff

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jimbona2

posted on 3/10/07 at 12:32 PM Reply With Quote
is this okay Rescued attachment DSCN0342.jpg
Rescued attachment DSCN0342.jpg

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jimbona2

posted on 3/10/07 at 12:33 PM Reply With Quote
mounts are there. Rescued attachment DSCN0313.jpg
Rescued attachment DSCN0313.jpg

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donut

posted on 3/10/07 at 12:41 PM Reply With Quote
I had a similar issue with my MK Indy with Pinto engine and they said that the engine should look like it's pointing down at the front so it looks fine to me.





Andy

When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
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jimbona2

posted on 3/10/07 at 12:51 PM Reply With Quote
ok thanks for the vote of confidence. when I get the exhaust inlet i'll let you know..
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AdamR

posted on 3/10/07 at 01:00 PM Reply With Quote
Looking at your pic of the gearbox mount, is it possible to bolt the cross member up to the chassis from underneath? That's how they usually work AFAIK and would drop the box by about an inch by the looks of the pic, thus lining things up a bit better.
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NS Dev

posted on 3/10/07 at 01:03 PM Reply With Quote
As above, bolt the gearbox mount to the underside of the box section, not the top.

It will then probably be slightly nose down but less so. Certainly doesn't look right at the mo.

Mine is a touch nose down but not that much





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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jimbona2

posted on 3/10/07 at 01:09 PM Reply With Quote
will that affect the ground clearance?
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02GF74

posted on 3/10/07 at 01:19 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by donut
I had a similar issue with my MK Indy with Pinto engine and they said that the engine should look like it's pointing down at the front so it looks fine to me.


they just said that to keep you quiet

It probably does not matter that much providing the bulge in hte sump is filled with oil for the pick up to pick up the oil.

.... and a good way to figure out how things should likne up is to look how the original manufacturer fitted the engine. Looks like you have zetec so thatwould be mounted in the frotn, transversely and as far as I am aware, all fwd cars I have seen, whcih is not many, have the cam covere top horizontal hence my initial comment.

Also I would guess the bottom face of the bock should be horizontal.

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takumi

posted on 3/10/07 at 01:27 PM Reply With Quote
Mount the gbox mount under the box section for sure..

I spent a while making my engine and gbox mount for my about to be scrapped chassis.. so my engine and gearbox are dead horizontal and parallel to the chassis.

>just hope they still will be in the new chassis..:S





RobinHood 2B 2.0i pinto, Keihin 38mm Carbs, lightened flywheel, O'Mori remote filter kit, 10 row oil cooler. Modified head, 10.2cr, special valves FR22 cam, 4- 1 header.

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bob

posted on 3/10/07 at 02:14 PM Reply With Quote
I keep looking at the gearstick ..... might be an optical illusion but it does look like the engine/gearbox needs to come back a few inches.

To me it looks like the scuttle may cover the geardtick






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welshavon

posted on 3/10/07 at 02:45 PM Reply With Quote
I went through the same dilema with my Avon, and eventually came to the conclusion that the engine does sit nose down. I've put an image in my archive that shows it. As for fitting the gearbox mount under the chassis rail I was advised against this because if the nuts should work loose the gearbox would drop with dire consequences. With the mount on top and the bols fitted from the top you have a degree of safety should the nuts come loose.

Colin

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Thinking about it

posted on 3/10/07 at 04:19 PM Reply With Quote
Should it be level? So that the output of the gearbox and the input on the diff are parallel.
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bob

posted on 3/10/07 at 04:30 PM Reply With Quote
drop the bonnet and nosecone on to see how much room you have from the top of the engine or cam belt cover, you may be able to space the engine mounts a bit to get the engine a bit more level.

At the angle your at now the prop to diff would be glad there is a UJ at each end, i was told when fitting my eng/box to try and get the prop as level as poss so as to not overwork the UJ's.
Kinda made sense to me






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AdamR

posted on 3/10/07 at 04:31 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by welshavon
As for fitting the gearbox mount under the chassis rail I was advised against this because if the nuts should work loose the gearbox would drop with dire consequences. With the mount on top and the bols fitted from the top you have a degree of safety should the nuts come loose.

Colin


The gearbox mounts/cross members bolt up underneath on lots of production cars out there. You are supposed to be able to remove the cross member from underneath the car to give yourself space to drop the box down and remove the engine/box from the car. I certainly couldn't remove my engine from my 7 chassis without being able to drop the mount off the bottom.

There should not be any problems with nuts loosening.

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AdamR

posted on 3/10/07 at 04:39 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Thinking about it
Should it be level? So that the output of the gearbox and the input on the diff are parallel.


Not necessarily. Ideally there should be small angle in each UJ to avoid premature wear.

Therefore it's a good thing if the gearbox/diff flanges at different heights BUT the mounting faces must be exactly parallel at each end of the prop so that the angle on each UJ is the same.

HTH

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flange nut

posted on 3/10/07 at 05:52 PM Reply With Quote
I've just had a look a Jim Dudley's book and it shows the gearbox mount bolted on top of the box section. It also looks like the front of the engines do point downwards. Looks like it's necessary to get under the bonnet.

Geoff

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jimbona2

posted on 3/10/07 at 07:48 PM Reply With Quote
im reading this like your saying how I have it is how it should be?
one note is that the gear changes are quite hard at the moment, near impossible. granted, there's no oil in the gearbox.. just mentioning this incase it would be resolved if the gearbox was mounted below which might align the clutch and gearstick better...

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bob

posted on 3/10/07 at 07:51 PM Reply With Quote
IS the clutch cable and pedal fitted and working ?

Box if bolted to the engine block is as much as you can do, i wouldnt thik the angle would make a difference to the gear selection.






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jimbona2

posted on 3/10/07 at 07:57 PM Reply With Quote
photo attached. clutch cable fittered Rescued attachment DSCN0088.jpg
Rescued attachment DSCN0088.jpg

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