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Author: Subject: Flames?!
lsdweb

posted on 19/5/08 at 04:18 PM Reply With Quote
Flames?!

I've been trying for ages (weeks) to get my R1 (5VY) running. It'll pop and bang now and blow flames out of the exhaust and throttle bodies!

I've checked and rechecked everything, including ignition and cam timing (Haynes manual is wrong), fuel pressure etc., but still with no luck.

I'm using the map from the previous 5JJ motor which I hoped would have been close enough to get it running.

The fact that I'm getting flames from exhaust and induction tells me that I've got the ignition (and hence injection) timing wrong, despite having checked it several times!

The engine spec is stock 5VY with 36/1 crank trigger wheel and running on Emerald K3 ECU.

Any thoughts?

Wyn






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Ivan

posted on 19/5/08 at 04:23 PM Reply With Quote
Are you sure the 5JJ and 5VY have the same trigger wheel numbers?






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worX

posted on 19/5/08 at 04:23 PM Reply With Quote
Do you have the Coilpacks in the correct order?

Steve






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locoR1

posted on 19/5/08 at 04:36 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by worX
Do you have the Coilpacks in the correct order?

Steve


Beat me to it number one is the sprocket end of the engine! sounds like me and Steve have probably done the same thing!





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coozer

posted on 19/5/08 at 05:09 PM Reply With Quote
Are you not better off using the original bike ECU? Then if you want an advantage a Power Commander??





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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lsdweb

posted on 19/5/08 at 05:11 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks Guys

The trigger wheel is (I think!) set up correctly and I've got the coil wiring (coil on plug) right as well (again I think!) 1 & 4 and 2 & 3 are firing correctly and the injectors appear to be firing correctly, and opposite to the corresponding coil.

I've tried everything reversed etc but no go!

I'm baffled!

Wyn






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lsdweb

posted on 19/5/08 at 05:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

Are you not better off using the original bike ECU? Then if you want an advantage a Power Commander??



You're not the first to say that! But, the Emerald (once I get it running right) will give me far more functionality, eg switchable maps, adjustable rev limits etc. Plus I'm now running CAN bus with the dash from the ECU.

I have been tempted but I sold the original ECU and looms anyway!

Wyn






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NS Dev

posted on 19/5/08 at 05:49 PM Reply With Quote
Are the throttle pots the same on both setups?

Just worth a check.

Prob not the issue but I have had an MBE system not run at all other than bangs etc due to having the throttle pot not zerod properly on the map (throttle position calibration map, setting zero throttle to zero opening)

You would think it would run at half throttle but 0.3 volts out on the zero position and it wouldn't run at all.





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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NS Dev

posted on 19/5/08 at 05:52 PM Reply With Quote
Ooh and the other daft one, it is inductive crank trigger not hall effect isn't it?? Daft, but some of the bosch sensors look almost identical but are different types in similar casings, my aprilias have hall effect on the cam phase sensors and inductive on the crank angle.

Again, been there done that, the ecu doesn't like a hall input if its set for inductive.

PS "power commander and std ecu".................what!!

Stick with the proper Emerald jobbie, no question, then you can actually control things rather than guess!

[Edited on 19/5/08 by NS Dev]





Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion retro car restoration and tuning

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lsdweb

posted on 19/5/08 at 06:20 PM Reply With Quote
NS Dev

The throttle pot is correctly calibrated and displayed in the software (and on the dash and logger - no hiding for me from now on!)

The sensor is a two wire and the ECU shows that the engine is cranking although this doesn't mean it's reading the signal correctly!

Thanks for the support on using the Emerald! I get a lot of advice to use the stock ECU and it's nice to hear somebody else who sees the benefits of using an after market ECU!

Wyn






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stevebubs

posted on 19/5/08 at 08:19 PM Reply With Quote
If you're sure all the wiring is correct, I would hazard a guess that you may have got the trigger wheel at the wrong angle....
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David Jenkins

posted on 19/5/08 at 08:25 PM Reply With Quote
As everyone else has said, it does sound like the timing's completely wrong.

I don't know if this diagram will help to check what you've got - I presume that the Emerald unit works in a similar way to EDIS as far as the trigger wheel is concerned.



If it doesn't help at all - ignore me!






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lsdweb

posted on 19/5/08 at 09:35 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks guys

David - great image. I've rechecked the ignition and cam timing and it's all OK.

What I haven't got right though is the 'Tacho Signal Multiplier' figure in Emerald! Presumably this is 0.5 as the crank rotates twice (and fires the sensor twice) for one cycle. I guess having this set to 1.000 would mean the ECU firing the coils and injectors twice as often as it should?


Emerald1
Emerald1


[Edited on 19/5/08 by lsdweb]






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lsdweb

posted on 19/5/08 at 10:02 PM Reply With Quote
quote:

Presumably this is 0.5



Tried it - didn't work. Changed it to 2 - started first time! Runs quite a bit rich but at least it runs!

Wyn

[Edited on 19/5/08 by lsdweb]






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