JC
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 06:03 PM |
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Mr Madinventions or Ford ECU experts.....again!
Hi Ed, All,
Same problem, different builder!
i'm trying to coax my 1.25 Zetec SE (1996) into life.
I have the wiring loom from the donor largely intact, except for some of the rear lighting. I do not appear to have an earth to the low power side of
the starter relay. Does this go straight to earth, or does it go through any other switches/sensors please?
Hopefully this will get the engine turning at least!
Thanks
JC
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big_wasa
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 06:38 PM |
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Ecu switches the earth as part of the PAT's immobilizer.
Edit It wont upset the ecu if you bypass this function and wire the starter relay inhibitor diresct to earth instead of the ecu doing it
[Edited on 12/8/11 by big_wasa]
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JC
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 06:41 PM |
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I have the clock wired up - the red LED isn't flashing. That indicates that PATS is happy, right?
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big_wasa
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 06:53 PM |
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It will flash nice and steady when armed. It will light up solid for a short while when powered up with the correct key then go out.
If you power it up with the wrong key/ no key then it will flash like the clapers.
By key I mean the paired RDIF chip.
http://youtu.be/pUbV0NPvx4M
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JC
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 07:07 PM |
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OK, I'm getting nothing from mine at all - the engine/loom came from a Mk3 Fiesta - I am looking at a LED next to the clock - I hope it is the
right one! Thanks for the helpful video 
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big_wasa
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 07:14 PM |
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Yeh any Led will do. It needs 12v yours would get this from the clock then the ecu switches it. (switched earth).
My pin knowledge ie the ecu pin numbers and there functions are Mondeo bassed.
Did the ecu / loom / key come from the same car ?
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JC
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 07:18 PM |
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Yes, all from the 1 car - been sat in a box for the last 5 years though with all the labels falling off!!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 07:26 PM |
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just a case of wiring it up then 
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JC
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 07:38 PM |
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'just'!
lol
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big_wasa
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 07:56 PM |
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Get your self a copy of autodata and a multi meter mate.
[Edited on 12/8/11 by big_wasa]
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JC
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 08:26 PM |
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The clock is powered - I'll check the other electrics tomorrow. What is autodata? i am using the wiring diagram from the haynes manual which
cunningly makes little reference to PATs!
Thanks for the help,
James
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Madinventions
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| posted on 12/8/11 at 08:57 PM |
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Hi James,
The '96 1.25 SE is the engine I first had in my Mojo and I've got quite a few notes from the ECU and wiring kicking about. A load of
photos from my notebook are here: <<Link>>
I'd thoroughly recommend getting hold of the 'Ford TIS DVD' which has the wiring info for many Fords of this era, and is far more
accurate than the Haynes manual. All the different wiring permutations of the PATs system is covered in there.
From memory, what big_wasa says about the led flashing is spot on, except mine didn't flash when 'armed'. I had a '96 Fiesta
LX with no PAS, ABS, airbags, alarm etc if it makes any difference. Have you got the black plastic PATs sensor module next to the key wired up? Did
you get the both the red and black keys?
Ed.
Mojo build diary: http://www.madinventions.co.uk
Solo music project: Syrrenfor http://www.reverbnation.com/syrrenfor
View my band website:
http://www.shadowlight.org.uk
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk/
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RichN
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 07:44 AM |
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If you have the loom intact then it should be a case of plugging it back together. Just make sure that the earths from the ECU are connected to
ground.
What has already been stated about the flashing LED is true, although mine does flash when armed. The Ford TIS CD does cover the wiring for it but as
long as you have the keys and the black PATS reader then all should be well.
Make sure that you also have 12v to the ECU, the Haynes manual covers this quite well in the "Starting and Charging" and "Engine
Management" sections.
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JC
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 08:51 AM |
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Ed, Rich: Thanks - I only have the 1 key for the car, the black 1. I will check the ECU power etc and let you know how I get on.
Is the TIS CD readily available (none I can see on ebay!) or is it a dealer job? Also, is it a Windows programme, or a file that I can read on my Mac?
Thanks again, multimeter ready, off to the garage I go!!
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big_wasa
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 09:32 AM |
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Latter ecu's on the mondeo dont flash when idle. Like I say I only do mondeo's. 1.2 doesnt do it for me when there are 2.0 or bigger.
Tis is fords own software and isnt somthing you can buy legit But you can get an old copy on ebay or Torent downlaod. I find the autodata better.
Again its profesional software that you wouldnt be able to buy new but there are old copies floating about.
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JC
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 11:55 AM |
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OK, not sure what I have proved here however.....
I was not convinced that the fuel pump relay was clicking. Removed it and checked for volts across the pins - all 4 had 12v. This confused me as I
was expecting 2 to have volts, 2 not to.
Removed the ecu, tried again, this time only 2 had voltage. Neither of the pins showed resistance when earthed.
Is this because the earth is switched by the ecu?
I have counted the pins on the ECU box - 104. The code is SLIM. Not all of the pins have connections. How are they numbered, is it left to right,
all the way across, or does it go left to right down the left half, then restart at the right half? I have found 12v at some of the pins and have the
pin outs previously posted on here.
As you can tell, there is a reason why I am not an electrician.....
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big_wasa
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 12:02 PM |
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The ecu switches earths it doesnt like to much current.
Be carfull where you prod your meter.
Yep so yours is the eec-v 104 pins. If you pull the black cover of the back you will see first and last in each row are numbered.
There will be one orange wire. This will be a perm' live for the memory. also known as KAM.
[Edited on 13/8/11 by big_wasa]
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JC
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 12:04 PM |
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Awesome, thanks, back to the garage......
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big_wasa
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 12:11 PM |
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Have you looked at Ed's notes ? looks like all you need.
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JC
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 01:12 PM |
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OK, making a little progress. Thanks wasa for the diagram - found a missing earth from the ecu.
PATS light now on for 60 seconds, then flashes 2, pause, then 1. I think this is Less than minimum keys programmed???
So, without the red key, am I bu*****d?
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JC
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 01:45 PM |
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OK, engine now turns - I forgot that I had disconnected the starter motor when I was diagnosing stuff!!!!
No spark though.......investigating!
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RichN
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 02:12 PM |
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Are you using the Fiesta ignition key wiring as it came out of the donor? i.e you haven't started removing unnecessary wiring?
If so make sure that you have it wired correctly as per the Starting and Charging diagram in the Haynes manual.
Also make sure that you have 12v from the Green ignition to the ECU, Vt/Og if memory serves.
There is also a permanent 12v live from the central fuesbox (the one that was in the car) to the ECU via the green plug in the Aux fusebox (the one
that was in the engine bay).
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Madinventions
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 03:13 PM |
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One key is fine... it's all I got with mine. You can get them copied (RFID tag and all) at most key cutters these days.
Mojo build diary: http://www.madinventions.co.uk
Solo music project: Syrrenfor http://www.reverbnation.com/syrrenfor
View my band website:
http://www.shadowlight.org.uk
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk/
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big_wasa
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 03:30 PM |
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One key is all you need but you would need a red key on early models and two keys on latter cars to program any extra keys.
Sounds like your nearly there.
Make sur the engine is earthed.
The centre pin on the coil pack is 12v if you want to stick your meter on it.
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JC
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| posted on 13/8/11 at 03:50 PM |
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Have 12v at all 3 connections on the coil pack.
The fuel pump is not running though - does the ECU stop the spark until it senses fuel pressure?
There is 12v at the pump but it looks like it is not earthed correctly - now looking for the earth for it!
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