Chris_R
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 07:41 PM |
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Capping open chassis tubes
I'm gonna weld 2mm plates over the ends of open chassis tubes, but can anyone recomend a good way of clamping them before tacking? Don't
fancy getting my fingers in the way. 
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
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phelpsa
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 07:42 PM |
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Use friends fingers
Adam
P.S. I am not a friend
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JoelP
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 07:48 PM |
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i got a pair of welding gloves, that can take some incredible heat for short periods of times. they do get very hot eventually though. With these you
can easily hold it whilst you tack it in place, then let go (or adjust with the hammer) before fully welding it. failing that, tack the square to a
small bar, then snap and grind?
i must say though, plastic caps and silicone seem better looking back.
[Edited on 20/8/04 by JoelP]
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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Chris_R
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 07:59 PM |
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I'm now onto my second pair of welders gauntlets and you're right about the heat they can stand. Suppose if someone else's done it
before and lived I may as well risk my fingers. they'll grow back anyway.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
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Chris_R
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 08:01 PM |
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Can you suggest a plastic cap supplier? That would be far easier and less time consuming.
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
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JoelP
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 08:06 PM |
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i never did this one myself, but there was a thread maybe 6 months ago where someone was saying they were gonna use them. Someone will come along soon
who knows!
or a square of wood and silione. If you have a tube of silicone it makes sense! bloody good stuff. I got loads in the van for work...
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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Cita
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 08:11 PM |
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You have to cut them any way so i did mine slightly larger and tapped them in with a hammer.Works perfectly
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j_davis
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 08:23 PM |
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For plastic end caps I found this company very good. They seemed a little expensive, but they will do any size order and were very quick.
http://www.abacus-furniture.co.uk/welcome.htm
James.
[Edited on 20/8/04 by j_davis]
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derf
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 08:24 PM |
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Ive been using a vice grip to hold one side to the frame, tack it in place, and bend it down, then weld the rest of it on.
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andyharding
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 08:43 PM |
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I got strips of steel just wide enough to fit inside the end of the tube and then cut lengths off to make little squares that would fit in the end of
the tube. Much less cutting.
I used a magnetic welding clamp to hold them in place while tacking.
Are you a Mac user or a retard?
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Peteff
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 08:44 PM |
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A little speaker magnet holds them while you tack a corner. I used a strip cut off the 16g steel for the floor panel then cut it into squares after.
Cut it a bit smaller one way and it wedges inside to make it even easier.
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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JohnN
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 09:46 PM |
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Capping ends with 1.6mm sheet pieces, using a TIG torch is one of the more satisfying jobs in welding.
Cut slightly oversize, tacked by holding with a gloved hand and then sealed all around by simply melting over the edges - very theraputic and a great
finish. No filler rod required.
JohnN
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Chris_R
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 09:52 PM |
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I have a MIG and Stick welder. Can someone explain the principles of TIG please?
A bit of slapstick never hurt anyone.
http://www.chris.renney.dsl.pipex.com/
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niceperson709
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 10:05 PM |
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what i did was to cut pieces of 20mm 20mm long and then split them in half so i had two u shaped pieces which then fit nicely INSIDE the tube to be
capped weld and tidy up with the grinder = perfect job
Best wishes
Iain
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RoadkillUK
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 10:57 PM |
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I just held the plate in place with the wooden handle of a hammer, tacked 2 opposing corners and removed the hammer.
I found that metal supermarkets sold the plastic end caps, but I think 'real' caps are better anyway.
Roadkill - Lee
www.bradford7.co.uk
Latest Picture (14 Sept 2014)
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scutter
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| posted on 20/8/04 at 11:15 PM |
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i used a tapered slither of steel tacked to the centre of the square and the held this piece to hold the square in the correct postion.
Hope that made sense.
ATB Dan.
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blueshift
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| posted on 21/8/04 at 12:03 AM |
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I seem to remember someone doing a bit of analysis and saying that welded end caps to tubes made an important contribution to stiffness, and 3mm plate
was reccomended to make them out of.. if I remember correctly.
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JoelP
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| posted on 21/8/04 at 12:53 PM |
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good idea there, Syd.
i might add, all my 'structural' tubes have welded caps, the remaining few are not structural and will get plugged with whatever is
closest to hand.
[Edited on 21/8/04 by JoelP]
Beware! Bourettes is binfectious.
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 21/8/04 at 07:22 PM |
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I cut most of the tubes 50mm longer, then cut out most of the spare tube leaving a 25mm long flap of metal at each end. Bend it down and weld around
three sides, job done.
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Spyderman
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| posted on 22/8/04 at 12:32 PM |
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I just use a bit of masking tape to hold the small bits on whilst tacking.
It holds it long enough to do the job and burns off when finishing off the weld.
Either that or the end of the hammer, or whatever comes to hand with a long enough reach to keep my fingers out of the way.
Terry
Spyderman
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James
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| posted on 22/8/04 at 10:55 PM |
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Fingers worked fine for me!
Although, obviously, as a responsible welder I would recommend anyone else away from using fingers!
James
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