snowy2
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| posted on 3/10/15 at 07:08 PM |
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i hope it is of use to you, any problems you can PM me.....Dave
sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.
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snowy2
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| posted on 6/8/16 at 10:03 AM |
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This would be the article your looking for.....
sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.
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axle
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| posted on 9/8/16 at 09:21 AM |
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Thanks Dave and everyone else it has been great
quote:
Originally posted by snowy2
quote:
Originally posted by Hector.Brocklebank
I fully agree with you, but maybe it might be prudent to inform the non-professional, who is thinking of undertaking their own wiring, of some of the
higher quality, more acceptable types of consumables that are available, instead of only (correctly) advising against those horrible cheapo style
scotch locks.
Again i could have advised the use of the better quality ones.....except i am also tracing faults on our fleet of new (2 year old) hgv trailers which
use these connectors frequently for the LED side lights, and after replacing the INOP side lights i have checked some of them and found them to be OK,
it was the connectors that were faulty....... (not all of them, but enough)
My advice stands.
Besides i offer this article as a helpful aide to the hobby i have been involved with for over 20 years now and i have noticed that electrics are the
most frequently quoted "problem". i am not affiliated with any company and have no axe to grind, nor do i feel i should give any extra
advise on alternative connection devices when those i recommend are easy to get, cheap to buy and reliable in use.
Again why would you use these "snap" connectors? they are primarily to save time in commercial applications, over a week they can make a
considerable time saving and the connections will last as least as long as the warranty. We are building cars for our selves and we expect the best
job we are capable of. If electrics are not your strong point your fault finding isn't going to be any better. You don't need to save time
in your build (an hour or so in a build of several hundred hours is no saving at all.) so why not do it properly and save the potential problems for
the commercial operators and their time saving dodges.
Dont get me wrong, i not having a pop i like the banter, and a healthy debate can lead to a better understanding of the issues.
Regards Axle
IVA passed 1st time thanks to the Forum members.
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snowy2
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| posted on 9/8/16 at 07:12 PM |
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well done Axle......hope my little article was of help....and that you gave it a try ;-) 
sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.
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snowy2
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| posted on 9/9/17 at 06:41 AM |
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Here it is....
sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.
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snowy2
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| posted on 9/9/17 at 07:54 AM |
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Been told the link no longer works....
So here is a link to my google drive.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2jAUFXnhFYCTm1IU1NhTENoSEVNMk95akw1UzFZR3NmckxN/view?usp=drivesdk
Hope it still helps someone...
sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.
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krestudon
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| posted on 8/5/18 at 03:00 PM |
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Now working. And useful!
Thank you very much!
--
MK indy R1
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snowy2
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| posted on 11/5/18 at 08:41 PM |
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Glad it's still of help....
sometimes you are the pigeon, most of the time the statue.
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 15/6/18 at 04:18 AM |
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Hi Snowy.
I bought a Summit Racing Harness, and it comes with its instructions, but I have some thoughts that I am quite sure I have read this in the forum, but
can´t find them.
- I plan to install Terminal blocks to join the Fuse Block to the actual harness. Is this a good Idea?
The above means that I will have a very short run to the terminal block, and then to the appropriate electric component.
- I plan to use a Megasquirt and plan to do the same thing with it too. Is it a good idea? Or is it better to have one run of cable even from the
sensors/ijectors, etc to the ECU?
- Is it worth it to do so with the Dash?
- Somewhere I read to install the electrical component first and trace cables back to fuse box; doing so will leave excess cable bunching up near the
fuse box, leaving the option to cut and splice or use the Terminal Blocks as above.
I Have got to the point where chassis is almost finished, but still have uspension, Brakes and fuel lines uninstalled. Do you think it is wise to
carry on with wiring at this point or do you reckon it would be better to install everything else before attacking the wiring?
Thank you very much for your time and contribution to this forum.
Angel Acevedo
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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rodgling
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| posted on 15/6/18 at 10:10 AM |
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If you want to go a bit non-locost, lots of interesting ideas and reccomendations on wiring
here.
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 16/6/18 at 10:59 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
If you want to go a bit non-locost, lots of interesting ideas and reccomendations on wiring
here.
Thanks, but most of that is totally out of my budget...
Even the waxed thread is too expensive for my liking. I thought it was cheaper.
I will make a budget for tie wraps and see how it compares.
I am planning to do my connections as in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BvFHA1xY10w
In my mind it should be cheaper than MIL grade connectors.
And to the collective, your comments to my other questions would be very appreciated.
Thanks.
AA
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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