luke2152
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| posted on 4/2/15 at 08:46 PM |
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IVA points
Did my IVA today. I managed to sort out most of the points brought up in my previous post. Tester was friendly and reasonable but I still ended up
with a pretty big list of things to sort out. Mostly simple stuff but need a bit of help with a few:
*Evidence of engine age. I had the donor v5 but that isn't good enough anymore. Anyone know who I can write to at mazda to try and get a
letter verifying the engines age. Nothing unusual about it either just an original mx5 engine from the donor.
*Metered emmisions - I failed dismally the first time and was allowed to tweek the map and have one more attempt. I leaned and retarded the midrange
a little and it passed the high idle but failed the normal idle with a large CO reading. Would be interested in any tips on getting it dialled in for
emissions test.
*101dbA. Only allowed 99dbA. So close. Are the plug in your pipe db killers worth a try in this instance?
*Fuel tank leak - It was pretty cold this morning and I brimmed the fuel tank. Then doing emissions test heated the fuel up quite a bit and it
expanded and overflowed out the breather which vents as high up as I can put it. Any suggestions on how to avoid this other then going on a hot day.
Maybe some kind of expansion chamber in the breather hose.
*Self centring steering. Doesn't self centre and I don't know what to do about it as the wishbones aren't adjustable apart from
camber. Also going with that:
*general construction - when on a sharp turn after the wheels pass 45 degees the steering does opposite of self centring to increase lock. In my mind
thats kind of what you'd expect beyond 45 degrees so I guess I might need to look at making some kind of lockstops. Also commented that he
thought the steering was too light but didn't record that.
*Protective steering. I unfortunately thought that you only needed an angle in the UJ if you didn't have a collapsible column or boss. So I
need to incorporate an angle. I'm hoping if I rotate the steering rack in its mounts I might get enough angle but I don't think I
will.
*Fog light. Comes on with the dip beam but not the main. I wired it like that on purpose thinking you can't use main beam in fog. Any before
I rewire it to work on both circuits can anyone confirm that you definitely need have fog working with main beam.
*With the exception of the bezel on my boost gauge I passed interior and exterior projections - happy with that.
*My brake lamp test button was labelled with a sticker which was deemed not durable enough for a car with no weather gear so I have to paint or etch
the label. That's being a bit picky.
*I went to some effort to tidy my wiring and enclose it all in conduit but didn't really secure much of it apart from near the fast spinny bits
so I have a bit of work to do on that pretty much all over the car.
*Few other bits not worth mentioning
All in all I don't think its to bad a list of jobs to do
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maccmike
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| posted on 4/2/15 at 09:07 PM |
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I dont know any answers sorry but look forward to reading peoples views
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Stot
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| posted on 4/2/15 at 09:34 PM |
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You can get the age letter from Mazda UK on 08457 484848. It costs £35 i think it was but they will sort it out. Make sure to tell them you would
like the engine number to be on the letter as I have seen letters that dont include it.
Cheers
Stot
[Edited on 4/2/15 by Stot]
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davidimurray
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| posted on 4/2/15 at 09:36 PM |
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Not a bad fail - a few comments below -
Engine age - google is your friend - http://mx5-haynes-roadster.blogspot.co.uk/2013/01/applying-for-proof-of-donorengine-age.html
Noise - the db killers do work, I used two, one before the silencer and one after the silencer.
Fuel tank - you can buy proper roll over valves that allow air in/out but not liquid -
https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/roll-over-valve-1-4-x-6jic-m-trv67
Self Centring - front tyres pumped up as high as you dare and add plenty of toe out.
Gallery 1 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.116893465324.130778.601005324
Gallery 2 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.245243755324.181913.601005324&l=a9831a9319
Gallery 3 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.440671625324.232627.601005324&l=3f0d42c523
Gallery 4 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.490098255324.297598.601005324&l=efb083b7df
Gallery 5 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150244028550325.366987.601005324&l=583fd5cd3a
Gallery 6 http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150550640070325.430417.601005324&type=3&l=fe779b358c
Duratec Engine Swap https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f " target="_blank"> https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10152527759580325.1073741828.601005324&type=1&l=40aae5e72f
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theprisioner
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| posted on 4/2/15 at 10:10 PM |
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Fuel overflow management.
This was my solution, the track scrutineers don't like fuel on the corners either.
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.co.uk/2014/10/fuel-overflow-management.html
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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theduck
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 08:41 AM |
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Why is your brake fluid test not on the handbrake?
Fog lights must work with main beam.
[Edited on 5/2/15 by theduck]
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theprisioner
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 08:58 AM |
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"*101dbA. Only allowed 99dbA. So close. Are the plug in your pipe db killers worth a try in this instance?"
Two points:
*There are various app's on the mobile phones for measuring how good/bad you are is remarkably accurate, this should help with mods.
* The quieteners are used frequently, I used one to get me through. They need to get their probe up the exhaust to measure your emissions so you have
to put it back in the tail pipe some way otherwise they will complain.
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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Slimy38
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 09:21 AM |
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I know this might be a silly response, but for the fuel tank overflowing, could you simply not fill the tank right to the top? Alternatively standard
tintops usually vent back into the filler hose, can you do the same?
If the IVA inspector has failed the fog light because it doesn't come on with main beam, then I think that's enough confirmation that it
needs sorting.
The steering UJ is an interesting one, I had also planned on just relying on the collapsible element rather than going for an offset angle. I might
have to adjust my plans.
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loggyboy
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 09:28 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by luke2152
*101dbA. Only allowed 99dbA. So close. Are the plug in your pipe db killers worth a try in this instance?
This might me more than you realise, DB is logarythmic scale, meaning the difference between 99 and 100 is not the same as the difference between 100
and 101, the gap between eadh DB increases each time.
Mistral Motorsport
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Slimy38
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 09:40 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by luke2152
*101dbA. Only allowed 99dbA. So close. Are the plug in your pipe db killers worth a try in this instance?
This might me more than you realise, DB is logarythmic scale, meaning the difference between 99 and 100 is not the same as the difference between 100
and 101, the gap between eadh DB increases each time.
A 3dB step is double the volume I think?
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loggyboy
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 09:55 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by luke2152
*101dbA. Only allowed 99dbA. So close. Are the plug in your pipe db killers worth a try in this instance?
This might me more than you realise, DB is logarythmic scale, meaning the difference between 99 and 100 is not the same as the difference between 100
and 101, the gap between eadh DB increases each time.
A 3dB step is double the volume I think?
Rings a bel.....
bel... get it....
Mistral Motorsport
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turbodisplay
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 09:06 PM |
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6Db is aprox double.
20Db is 10 times exactly.
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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theprisioner
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 09:26 PM |
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Power 3dB is double
http://sylvabuild.blogspot.com/
http://austin7special.blogspot.co.uk/
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 09:38 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Stot
You can get the age letter from Mazda UK on 08457 484848. It costs £35 i think it was but they will sort it out. Make sure to tell them you would
like the engine number to be on the letter as I have seen letters that dont include it.
Cheers
Stot
This may sound simple but - do you always need to prove engine age, mine is 1999 and will require a CAT. Will they still expect age to be proved?
Ian
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luke2152
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 09:48 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
quote:
Originally posted by luke2152
*101dbA. Only allowed 99dbA. So close. Are the plug in your pipe db killers worth a try in this instance?
This might me more than you realise, DB is logarythmic scale, meaning the difference between 99 and 100 is not the same as the difference between 100
and 101, the gap between eadh DB increases each time.
Yes you're right. 10db increase will increase intensity by 10X. 2db is about 1.6X too loud
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luke2152
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 10:17 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
I know this might be a silly response, but for the fuel tank overflowing, could you simply not fill the tank right to the top? Alternatively standard
tintops usually vent back into the filler hose, can you do the same?
If the IVA inspector has failed the fog light because it doesn't come on with main beam, then I think that's enough confirmation that it
needs sorting.
The steering UJ is an interesting one, I had also planned on just relying on the collapsible element rather than going for an offset angle. I might
have to adjust my plans.
Tank does have to be completely full but I didn't see him have more then a glance in the filler neck when looking at the filler cap so probably
could have gotten away with 80% full. I can't vent back to the filler hose as I have a fully sealed filler cap. Anyway I'm going to use
the rollover valve someone mentioned and vent through a fuel filter to be doubly safe as it can catch any that gets past the valve and let it drain
back to tank when needed.
Point taken on the fog light. I guess I was just in a bad mood over that one because it seemed a bit silly.
Inspector didn't want to put a number on the offset angle but said it didn't have to be much but had to be obvious. Mine was near enough
to no offset.
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luke2152
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 10:41 PM |
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This may sound simple but - do you always need to prove engine age, mine is 1999 and will require a CAT. Will they still expect age to be proved?
Ian
I had the option to be tested at 2002 standards if I didn't provide the proof of age.
You can get the age letter from Mazda UK on 08457 484848. It costs £35 i think it was but they will sort it out. Make sure to tell them you would like
the engine number to be on the letter as I have seen letters that dont include it.
Thanks - letter is on its way
Why is your brake fluid test not on the handbrake?
I used a random handbrake from god knows what that didn't have a switch on it so I had a separate test button. They were fine with that apart
from the labelling.
Self Centring - front tyres pumped up as high as you dare and add plenty of toe out.
Thanks I'll give that a test. Any idea what a reasonable number is for this. 70psi and a few degrees toe out?
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adithorp
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 10:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ianhurley20
This may sound simple but - do you always need to prove engine age, mine is 1999 and will require a CAT. Will they still expect age to be proved?
Ian
No, if your engine is post the '95 cut off date then it will be tested to the full cat/BETS test limits and no proof will be required.
If you want to be tested to the earlier/easier limits you have to prove engine age. They don't except the v5 as proof because you can have the
engine changed to a later one and the v5 updated... In the past some might even have just done that or even just applied for an updated v5 without
ever fitting the engine, in order to get the easier test.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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theduck
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 10:53 PM |
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30psi is plenty!
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luke2152
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| posted on 5/2/15 at 11:31 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by theduck
30psi is plenty!
That's hardly 'as high as you dare' more like normal pressure for a tin top
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907
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| posted on 6/2/15 at 03:57 AM |
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You've got me worried now. I have IVA in 7 days.
I've always assumed that as the age of my engine is encoded in the engine number and I have the Garage Dealers Manual
that shows how the engine number is made up that this would be all the proof of age that I need.
I can tell the date within a margin of 31 days.
I suppose I'll find out next Friday.
Paul G
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Slimy38
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| posted on 6/2/15 at 07:49 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by 907
You've got me worried now. I have IVA in 7 days.
I've always assumed that as the age of my engine is encoded in the engine number and I have the Garage Dealers Manual
that shows how the engine number is made up that this would be all the proof of age that I need.
I can tell the date within a margin of 31 days.
I suppose I'll find out next Friday.
Paul G
I think you should be ok with that, its similar to some ford engines that have number ranges in particular years and there is a book that says which
numbers are which year. Mazda engines are just a series of numbers that have no date details in them.
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theduck
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| posted on 6/2/15 at 08:00 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by luke2152
quote:
Originally posted by theduck
30psi is plenty!
That's hardly 'as high as you dare' more like normal pressure for a tin top
But double normal pressure for a seven!
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 6/2/15 at 11:20 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by adithorp
quote:
Originally posted by ianhurley20
This may sound simple but - do you always need to prove engine age, mine is 1999 and will require a CAT. Will they still expect age to be proved?
Ian
No, if your engine is post the '95 cut off date then it will be tested to the full cat/BETS test limits and no proof will be required.
If you want to be tested to the earlier/easier limits you have to prove engine age. They don't except the v5 as proof because you can have the
engine changed to a later one and the v5 updated... In the past some might even have just done that or even just applied for an updated v5 without
ever fitting the engine, in order to get the easier test.
Thanks for that - £35 saved 
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