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Author: Subject: CVH help - not starting
pekwah1

posted on 23/7/16 at 08:23 PM Reply With Quote
CVH help - not starting

Hi guys,

I will have to start by admitting I know pretty much nothing about the CVH engine, but my car came with one so figured I'd have a quick go of getting it running before going straight for a swap.

I believe it's a 1600, has a single twin carb setup, has a dizzy with the "ignition amplifier" bit attached to the dizzy body.
I've had a look for some kind of ECU but I don't have anything - not sure if I need one?

The engine turns over fine but won't start, I'm definitely getting no spark as have checked with the plug out and earthed on the battery.

Couple of things, I'm going to get a new dizzy rotor as the current one doesn't look great but assume I'd get something with it, should I be able to test continuity on a rotor arm?

The second thing is the ignition amplifier. I've wired the right hand pin to coil -, middle pin to earth, left pin to coil +

Any thoughts? Apologies for being a bit general but figure you guys on here are pretty clever st this stuff and probably already have a good idea of the answer!

Cheers
Andy

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AdrianH

posted on 23/7/16 at 08:36 PM Reply With Quote
Any pictures of the set-up I would assume it has the esc-hybrid system with a pick up coil off the front pulley, if the pick up not working no spark.

??

Adrian





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.

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pekwah1

posted on 23/7/16 at 08:40 PM Reply With Quote
I have a cylindrical type coil sat on the bulkhead.
Don't remember anything from the front pulley, can get photos but probably tomorrow now

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AdrianH

posted on 23/7/16 at 11:42 PM Reply With Quote
Mine is the 1.8 so I am just assuming the same as I have the pierburg twin choke carb on it also.

Cylindrical coil, going to distributor, no points on it as said pick-up on front pulley which has a 36 toothed ring.
The ignition unit also has a vacuum hose going to it from the inlet manifold to take care of ignition advance.

There were several different versions so you may well have different.

If it was a central fuel injected model then there would definitely be a different system with a complete engine management system or ECU.

And that is what is confusing me as you say it is a 1.6 litre CVH and that was brought in to replace the 1.6 Pinto engine in 1991 and I think was only done as this CFI type, according to my Haynes Sierra Manual. So if you say it has a twin carb I can only assume it is a 1.8 pre 1991 version.

Adrian

Sudden thought you never said Sierra engine so it could be an old Escort or Orion front wheel drive version. I would be stumped as I don't have the old Escort/Orion manuals.



[Edited on 23-7-16 by AdrianH]





Why do I have to make the tools to finish the job? More time then money.

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britishtrident

posted on 24/7/16 at 06:27 AM Reply With Quote
Ok it sounds like an Escort 3 CVH dizzie the ignition modules are prone to failure as are the rotor arms. The same module was used by BL on the 1.3 Metro
First stage is to check for a spark at the centre lead the distrubuter -- by unpluging the centre lead from the coil and holding it with insulated pliers close to the block you should be able to get a spark 20-25mm long or more as the engine is cranked. If you get a strong spark the coil and module are OK.

You can do a very rough and ready check on the module by connecting a 12v test lamp between coil - and battery + (or you can use coil +). If the lamp flickers when the engine is cranked the module and wiring are probaly OK --- but this is not 100 perecent proof for that you need a module tester or a an oscilloscope.


Your connections are correct -- on the three pin junior timer connector the left pin is power (shared with coil +) the centre pin can be either grounded or left unconnected, and the right pin goes to coil -





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
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rusty nuts

posted on 24/7/16 at 07:12 AM Reply With Quote
As BT points out you probably have an Escort engine the Sierra 1800 CVH is easily identified as it has the distributor in the timing cover whereas the Escort at the flywheel end . Ignition modules were a common Escort problem but before condemning it remove it he cap and check that the distributor is actually rotating as another CVH known problem is timing belt failure.
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britishtrident

posted on 24/7/16 at 08:20 AM Reply With Quote
The Escort 1600 cvh isn't that bad an engine definitely better than the 1800 Sierra version the only real weakness is camshaft wear. Because of the port design and having only 8 valves it can never have the ulimate power of the later Ford engines but it is simple and the bottom end is strong.





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]

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jwallbank

posted on 24/7/16 at 10:37 AM Reply With Quote
CVH Help - not starting

Have you checked the basics:

Do you have 12v at the coil positive when ignition switched on?

Is there a crack in the distributor cap?

Is the carbon spring-loaded thingy still in the top of the cap - they do fall out sometimes and are easy to miss?

Check You Tube for how to check your coil with a multi-meter.


Hope you get it sorted quickly.

John W

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gremlin1234

posted on 24/7/16 at 09:03 PM Reply With Quote
if I remember correctly, the escort cvh distributor had at least 2 different rotor arms available.
standard one,
and xr version, which had a spring in it to act as a rev limiter.
-ie fitting standard, removed the rev limit on the xr engines!

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pekwah1

posted on 24/7/16 at 09:28 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for all the replies guys.

I had another check tonight.
Now it's worth mentioning that the wiring isn't done yet, so I'm kind of hot wiring off the battery, so coil and amplifier direct to positive, amplifier to bat neg, and then neg from amplifier to the coil.

After messing around I was getting a spark from the coil, and also from spark plugs when cranking now so this is good news!

Engine didn't start, but not sure the fuel pump is working and need to check timing etc on the engine but definitely getting closer!

Cheers
Andy

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gremlin1234

posted on 24/7/16 at 09:37 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
Thanks for all the replies guys.

I had another check tonight.
Now it's worth mentioning that the wiring isn't done yet, so I'm kind of hot wiring off the battery, so coil and amplifier direct to positive, amplifier to bat neg, and then neg from amplifier to the coil.

After messing around I was getting a spark from the coil, and also from spark plugs when cranking now so this is good news!

Engine didn't start, but not sure the fuel pump is working and need to check timing etc on the engine but definitely getting closer!

Cheers
Andy
sounds like you are going in the right direction.
also very easy to get the timing out by 180 degrees

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pekwah1

posted on 24/7/16 at 09:51 PM Reply With Quote
Yeh I'll check the dizzy caps the right way on!
Also is the firing order 1 3 4 2 on a CVH?

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gremlin1234

posted on 24/7/16 at 09:55 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pekwah1
Yeh I'll check the dizzy caps the right way on!
Also is the firing order 1 3 4 2 on a CVH?
from memory, yep 1342, anticlockwise looking from the cap end of the distributor

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rusty nuts

posted on 25/7/16 at 07:00 PM Reply With Quote
Stale fuel doesn't help with cold starting, another fault I came across on a couple of CVH engines was worn fuel pump push rods but IIRC they caused hot starting problems
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