James
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| posted on 16/7/10 at 11:26 AM |
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Best way to paint varnished ali grab rail
Girlfriend just bought a 2nd hand Suzuki SV to replace her write-off Gixxer.
For some reason it's missing the rear grab rail (which may explain why both rear fairings are snapped nearly off- to be replaced!).
She's bought a replacement but it's the wrong colour so it needs painting and she's decided to go for black.
It's currently 'painted' blue and then varnished:
 
Grab rail
 
Grab rail 2
The bike isn't mint so doesn't deserve paying to have it properly plastic coated and she'll be getting the proper yellow paint for the
bodywork in a couple of months.
In the meantime, if we went for Plasticoat black paint (worked well on my wishbones and rollbar) what should be done to prepare the rail?
I'm assuming it's as simple as:
wet and dry (what grade?) to 'key' the varnish (or whatever the current top coat is).
Then plasticoat primer (couple of coats)
Then black plasticoat (couple of coats).
Should there then be a laquer on top of the plasticoat?
Thanks!
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 16/7/10 at 12:00 PM |
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Are you certain it's actually been "varnished"? Unless someone got carried away whilst slapping a bit of Sadolin on their woodwork
it should just be a standard clear coat on top.
Sand it down with a suitable grade of wet and dry, degrease and spray it.
Good bikes though, I just bought this:
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iank
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| posted on 16/7/10 at 12:10 PM |
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Looks anodized blue not painted, but I don't think you need etch primer for anodized ali, so your plan looks good.
Edit: Should have said anodized and then clear coated/laquered.
Edit2: Don't sand through the anodizing or you'll need etch primer (U-pol Acid #8 or similar)
[Edited on 16/7/10 by iank]
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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James
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| posted on 16/7/10 at 12:14 PM |
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What grade wet and dry? Never really used it before.
Thanks,
James
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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thunderace
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| posted on 16/7/10 at 12:18 PM |
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just sand it with a scotch pad and paint it with black satin plasti kote black satin ,hang it from a coat hanger to paint it and lots of thin coats
giving it 5 mins between coats .this will give it a factory finish look .
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James
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| posted on 16/7/10 at 12:22 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MikeRJ
Are you certain it's actually been "varnished"? Unless someone got carried away whilst slapping a bit of Sadolin on their woodwork
it should just be a standard clear coat on top.
Sand it down with a suitable grade of wet and dry, degrease and spray it.
Good bikes though, I just bought this:
Nice looking bike Mike!
You're probably right about the clear coat! 
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"The fight is won or lost far away from witnesses, behind the lines, in the gym and out there on the road, long before I dance under those lights."
- Muhammad Ali
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thunderace
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| posted on 16/7/10 at 12:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by James
What grade wet and dry? Never really used it before.
Thanks,
James
you just want to take the shine off it and paper wont get into all the bits you need to sand thats why you need to use a scotch pad rub it then wash
it dry it and if you see any shiney bits then scotch it again you can use water with scotch pads (there just kitchen scouring pads.)another tip is
to heat the paint in a jug of hot water it will give it a better finish .(i use boiling water but it can make the can exsplode but its never happened
to me lol yet)
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Daddylonglegs
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| posted on 16/7/10 at 01:35 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by James
For some reason it's missing the rear grab rail (which may explain why both rear fairings are snapped nearly off- to be replaced!).....
Sound like someone screwed up the wheelie attempt to me
It looks like the Midget is winning at the moment......
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