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Author: Subject: Reg/Rec cbr900 - HELP!!
Matt21

posted on 7/5/14 at 12:23 PM Reply With Quote
Reg/Rec cbr900 - HELP!!

after my swollen battery thread....

i have replaced the reg/rec with a 'new' one
i plug it in and tested it, got around 13.7v at 5000rpm

unplugged it, sorted out the conntections and bolted it in, now it doesnt work, 18v at 5000rpm
the warmer the reg gets, the higher the voltage gets, sits around 15v at 1300rpm after 5mins of running

im getting very annoyed with the car now and hoping someone can help

heres a bit of info about whats going on

stator, three yellow wires have 0.4ohms between each
im getting around 55vAC at 5000rpm

as i said above, the voltage at the battery is 18v at 5000rpm


how i have it wired up
the three stator wires go to the 3 yellow wires on the reg
the two green wires from the reg go to the chassis (earth) my negative battery terminal also goes to the chassis
the two reg wires from the reg go too the 30amp main fuse (the other side of which goes to the +ve of the battery

is there anything going on here that doesnt look right?

there are a few things that could be at fault

i have bought a duff reg/rec
something on my car is causing them to fail
wrong wiring?

hopefully someone can help soon

[Edited on 7/5/14 by Matt21]

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ReMan

posted on 7/5/14 at 12:51 PM Reply With Quote
Wiring sould correct, as does the alternator.
Sounds like a duff reg i'm afraid. To coin the old phrase , just make sure your earths are actually earthed





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Matt21

posted on 7/5/14 at 01:08 PM Reply With Quote
just been out and did a few tests after reading this
http://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-900rr-19/regulator-rectifier-testing-location-18726/

Battery voltage - 13.27volts
Continuity between each yellow and earth - 0.7, 0.8, 0.8 ohms
Continuity between each yellow to yellow - 0.4, 0.4, 0.4 ohm
Continuity between green wires and negetive battery - 0.4 ohms
Voltage from red wires to negetive battery - 13.27 volts

Voltage across battery at 1500rpm - 15.5volts
voltage acorss battery at 5000rpm - 17.5volts

As it says in that thread, the three yellows should not have continuity to earth, yet mine do. does this mean my stator is goosed too?

would a goosed stator cause the reg to go mental too or is that likely to be dead as well?

I have a spare stator in the garage so i guess I'll change it and see what happens

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SPYDER

posted on 7/5/14 at 01:54 PM Reply With Quote
Be sure also that the reg gets some cooling air across it. I fixed a 12v computer fan to mine.
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ReMan

posted on 7/5/14 at 02:24 PM Reply With Quote
I think you need to re-check as (I could be wrong) dont think this is possible.....

Continuity between each yellow and earth - 0.7, 0.8, 0.8 ohms
Continuity between each yellow to yellow - 0.4, 0.4, 0.4 ohm





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Matt21

posted on 7/5/14 at 03:24 PM Reply With Quote
definately continuity between the yellows and earth.

took the stator out (after lifting the whole bloody engine out!) and its black and looks fried!!!!
fitted my spare one and just in the process of getting it back together, gimme 30mins and ill tell you the results.... fingerscrossed it works!

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Matt21

posted on 7/5/14 at 03:25 PM Reply With Quote
also, it has a fan on it too

its only been running a max of 5 mins and the reg was mildly warm but the voltage was way up!

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mark chandler

posted on 7/5/14 at 04:21 PM Reply With Quote
The stator on a blade engine should not leak to earth = goosed.

It will also only support a small battery or you will pull to many amps and burn it out, this also means no jump leads unless you disconnect or you risk frying the parts.

Not sure how the survive will electric reverses, I guess if you just leave it idling then the risk is diminished.

Regards Mark

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Matt21

posted on 7/5/14 at 05:10 PM Reply With Quote
update, new stator in

at 1500rpm - 17.3volts.... even worse than it was!!!!

il have to try and get hold of yet another reg and see if that makes a difference


could it be possible that the knackered stator was destroying the regs?
seems odd that the new one worked ok when i tested it then it was buggered 5minutes later :S

[Edited on 7/5/14 by Matt21]

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avagolen

posted on 7/5/14 at 06:20 PM Reply With Quote
Overheating the unit will cook it.

When my son had an MK with a fire blade engine and electrics. The regulator got hot and fried very quickly.

It was not on any cooling structure at all.

We fitted a new reulator to a piece of angle ally - about 10mm thick and
mounted a PC processor cooling fan to that which was running all the time the ignition was on.

This was probably overkill but the regulator never got warm at all after that and lasted forever.

HTH

Len.







[Edited on 7/5/14 by avagolen]





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owelly

posted on 7/5/14 at 06:20 PM Reply With Quote
Can you check your meter by trying on another car? It's often simple things that chuck a spanner in the trifle.





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kingster996

posted on 7/5/14 at 07:12 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by avagolen
Overheating the unit will cook it.

I have had a lot of bikes in my day and a few Hondas - and, yep they often suffered from overheating and using a PC fan and cooler was a solution a few mates used in the past - great idea.






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Matt21

posted on 8/5/14 at 06:44 AM Reply With Quote
the original one may have died due to over heating.
the new one definately didnt, it was only plugged in for a matter of seconds
even after it was running for five minutes it was only mildly warm


could the stator have damaged it? it was shorting out to earth, would this do any harm to the reg?

im trying to get hold of another one today to double check that the new one is actually broke

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flanders

posted on 17/6/16 at 12:22 PM Reply With Quote
Hi Matt, sorry for digging up an old thread but did you ever get to the bottom of you voltage issues?

im having some myself on my zx9, only im losing voltage when i introduce load on the system, im awaiting a new RR coming from electrosport but i have a feeling it may be my stator - which doesn't look like its coming out with the engine in

cheers

dave

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Matt21

posted on 19/6/16 at 07:07 PM Reply With Quote
I'm struggling to remember now.

I believe my stator was fried and once I replaced that and the RR and remade the cable connectors it was ok.

You've just got to work through the whole lot and check each bit at a time.

Also, I think it was just starting the car from a big car battery that ruined the stator





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