craigdiver
|
| posted on 8/7/17 at 09:21 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by bigwill64
i have a z cars jig for top and bottom wishbones and mabye still got some tube for making them if your interested .
[Edited on 7/7/17 by bigwill64]
Have all the steel/parts to make them but just got the opportunity to buy some ready made. Much appreciated for the offer.
Cheers
Craig
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 9/7/17 at 06:38 PM |
|
|
Chassis almost finished
Another very productive day, fitted fuel tank mounting brackets, rear suspension brackets, diff cage braces, headlight brackets and got everything
else fully welded.
Had an idea for the headlight brackets. I welded a small bore hollow tube through the chassis rail and mounted the headlight bracket over it so the
headlight wires can enter the end of the headlight bracket and straight through to the inside of the chassis.
Still got the infill pieces to weld in for the rear arches but want to wait till I have the arches (which I will get when I have assembled the rear
suspension and know how wide to go).
Also still need to weld on a couple of brackets to take the ends of the roll hoop supports.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 10/7/17 at 04:58 PM |
|
|
Red rocket
Chassis now undercoated with red anti-corrosion primer. Feeling high as a kite after thoroughly cleaning chassis with solvent based degreaser then
painting with the solvent based paint!. Now have brush strokes & the odd bristle on my chassis to add a bit of character! :-)
[Edited on 10/7/17 by craigdiver]
[Edited on 10/7/17 by craigdiver]
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 13/7/17 at 03:43 PM |
|
|
Got the BMW diff shot blasted, was looking very sorry for itself with thick layers of rust but what a transformation after shot blasting &
painting....
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 14/7/17 at 03:22 PM |
|
|
Guess what I'm doing this weekend :-)
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 14/7/17 at 06:30 PM |
|
|
Car is going to be BMW Yas Marina Blue, tempted to paint the diff cover with the same colour, not sure why people paint the diff cover a different
colour but would look good.
Diff will be first to be mounted (after an oil change) once floor fitted this weekend.
[Edited on 14/7/17 by craigdiver]
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
jossey
|
| posted on 14/7/17 at 07:58 PM |
|
|
Nice car that was lol
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 14/7/17 at 08:04 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by jossey
Nice car that was lol
If you mean the BMW that I used as a donor, yes, drove it to workshop 60 miles and did have second thoughts of dismantling it. However, it was a bit
knackered, the previous owner had chavved it to within an inch of its life. It was overly lowered with everything rubbing on everything else and they
had attempted to fit angel eye head lights from a newer BMW and had destroyed the lighting wiring loom throughout the car. Because of this I managed
to pick it up for peanuts.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 15/7/17 at 09:21 AM |
|
|
127 done, half way there!
Measured out 4mm rivet holes (max 40mm spacing) and drilled the 127 holes. I had ordered 4.1mm drill bits but never turned up so drilled in 4.0mm,
rivets tight to get into hole so may wait till 4.1mm bits turn up to silkaflex and rivet floor 2mm aluminium on.
Anyway, here is progress so far (the 4 larger holes are so I can access the bolts for the seat subframe, I have plugs for the holes)
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 15/7/17 at 10:26 AM |
|
|
Drivers floor pan complete
When I'm upside down in a field I'm sure the first thing that the accident investigator will think is nice floor-pan ;-)
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 18/7/17 at 05:08 PM |
|
|
Certified idiot :-0
Made jig up for rear hubs, thought would be a good idea to pad out long M12 threaded by wrapping PVC tape round it to centralise the tube - worked
perfectly. However, after I welded it I realised the cock-up, how am I going to get it out! Think will apply heat with a gas mask on until the tape
melts sufficiently to pull the threaded bar out!
Just noticed the book Figs 5.23, 5.28 & photo 5.32 are clearly dimensionally different to the drawing 5.24.
I am going with sierra drum brakes, am I ok to rotate the hub mounting plate a bit to give better access to the brake shoe cylinder connection? (Seen
this discussed elsewhere)
[Edited on 18/7/17 by craigdiver]
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 22/7/17 at 11:41 AM |
|
|
Diff mounted in chassis
Diff mounted in chassis with help from my son Matthew, going to remove and refit 2 x rear mounting bolts and insert from the front so they can be
removed in the future without having to remove the fuel tank.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 22/7/17 at 06:31 PM |
|
|
Wrote a letter this evening to K and R, DVLA requesting a VIN number. Letter will be posted Monday, let's see how long it takes.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 22/7/17 at 09:27 PM |
|
|
:-0
Just scared myself by making a quick to-do list, I'm sure there is probably loads of other bits and pieces but here goes;
Car todo
- Fit brackets to catch roll bar braces on rear upper tube.
- Fit rear arch infill brackets
- Buy roll hoop, cross member, support bars & seatbelt mounts £100
- Buy ECU £145
- Buy steering rack extensions
- Buy rear wheel arches
- Buy front wheel arches
- Measure up and buy sleeves to join BMW & sierra drive shafts
- Buy new shoes and fitting kits for rear hub brakes
- Buy custom handbrake cables
- Buy universal throttle cable
- Buy flexi clutch hydraulic hose
- Buy headlights
- Buy front indicators
- Buy rear lights & repeaters
- Buy battery
- Buy set of shocks
- Buy seatbelts
- Get seatbelt mounting bolts from scrappies
- Get wheelnuts for ford focus from scrappies
- Buy brake & clutch fluid reservoir including pipes to master cylinder & level sensor
- Cut nosecone and get grille
- Buy & fit oil cooler
- Buy water cooling pipework
- Buy oil cooler pipework
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
rodgling
|
| posted on 23/7/17 at 10:53 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
Diff mounted in chassis with help from my son Matthew, going to remove and refit 2 x rear mounting bolts and insert from the front so they can be
removed in the future without having to remove the fuel tank.
I suspect that will not be strong enough - on my car which originally had this diff mounted in the same way with just three mount points, the front
bolt snapped as the nose of the diff tries to lift up under acceleration (IIRC this happened while I still had the 328 engine).
There should be a couple of mount points directly under the output shafts - I would recommend running a chassis rail underneath these and mounting
vertically through these. I've done this and this appears to have solved the problem.
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 23/7/17 at 11:08 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
I suspect that will not be strong enough - on my car which originally had this diff mounted in the same way with just three mount points, the front
bolt snapped as the nose of the diff tries to lift up under acceleration (IIRC this happened while I still had the 328 engine).
There should be a couple of mount points directly under the output shafts - I would recommend running a chassis rail underneath these and mounting
vertically through these. I've done this and this appears to have solved the problem.
These are the original mounting points from the donor, don't see anymore mounting points on the diff. Ill keep an eye on the forward diff mount,
thanks for the heads up.
Cheers
Craig
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
rodgling
|
| posted on 23/7/17 at 11:40 AM |
|
|
My diff (medium case, which I think the 325 diff is) looks like the one here:
The mounts I used are to the right of the hand, underneath the driveshaft.
I'd definitely suggest beefing up the front mount as much as you can, I would drill out the hole and use as big a bolt as possible, also maybe
brace the tab on the chassis a bit.
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 23/7/17 at 11:46 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
My diff (medium case, which I think the 325 diff is) looks like the one here:
The mounts I used are to the right of the hand, underneath the driveshaft.
I'd definitely suggest beefing up the front mount as much as you can, I would drill out the hole and use as big a bolt as possible, also maybe
brace the tab on the chassis a bit.
My donor was a 5-series, the diff looks quite different, the mounts on mine look more substantial. The mounting bolt as standard is M14, how does that
compare to yours?
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
rodgling
|
| posted on 23/7/17 at 11:57 AM |
|
|
Ah, that explains the diff diff then. The front mount on mine is M12, so I guess the M14 bolt will help.
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 23/7/17 at 12:08 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
Ah, that explains the diff diff then. The front mount on mine is M12, so I guess the M14 bolt will help.
I see from your profile you have went with M3 power, was it reasonably straightforward to swap from 2.8 to M3 lump? I was hoping to do the power
upgrade in mine once finished, SVA'd, MOT'd and driven it around for a few months.
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
rodgling
|
| posted on 23/7/17 at 01:05 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
Ah, that explains the diff diff then. The front mount on mine is M12, so I guess the M14 bolt will help.
I see from your profile you have went with M3 power, was it reasonably straightforward to swap from 2.8 to M3 lump? I was hoping to do the power
upgrade in mine once finished, SVA'd, MOT'd and driven it around for a few months.
Yeah, very easy. You may need to tweak the chassis for clearance around the vanos area, also the air box and maf are pretty big so may be a squeeze.
But otherwise it's straightforward. Hardest part is probably justifying the cost of the m3 engine, they're not cheap these days :-)
Everything is in the same place in terms of mounts, gearbox fitment etc.
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 23/7/17 at 01:09 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
Ah, that explains the diff diff then. The front mount on mine is M12, so I guess the M14 bolt will help.
I see from your profile you have went with M3 power, was it reasonably straightforward to swap from 2.8 to M3 lump? I was hoping to do the power
upgrade in mine once finished, SVA'd, MOT'd and driven it around for a few months.
Yeah, very easy. You may need to tweak the chassis for clearance around the vanos area, also the air box and maf are pretty big so may be a squeeze.
But otherwise it's straightforward. Hardest part is probably justifying the cost of the m3 engine, they're not cheap these days :-)
Everything is in the same place in terms of mounts, gearbox fitment etc.
That's great news, what sort of BHP do you have?
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
rodgling
|
| posted on 23/7/17 at 01:22 PM |
|
|
The s50b32 is supposed to be 321 bhp when new, so I guess a bit less than that. Some horses lost to age I expect, but some savings made by removing
fan, power steering, EGR, plus freer flowing exhaust, lightweight flywheel. Its fast though, I don't feel the need for any more power :-) It
will outdrag a 997 GT3 RS4, so I'm happy with the performance.
[Edited on 23/7/17 by rodgling]
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 23/7/17 at 01:45 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by rodgling
The s50b32 is supposed to be 321 bhp when new, so I guess a bit less than that. Some horses lost to age I expect, but some savings made by removing
fan, power steering, EGR, plus freer flowing exhaust, lightweight flywheel. Its fast though, I don't feel the need for any more power :-) It
will outdrag a 997 GT3 RS4, so I'm happy with the performance.
[Edited on 23/7/17 by rodgling]
Now that does sound fun ;-)
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
craigdiver
|
| posted on 4/8/17 at 02:16 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by craigdiver
Wrote a letter this evening to K and R, DVLA requesting a VIN number. Letter will be posted Monday, let's see how long it takes.
Got this reply by email today....
ALLOCATION OF A VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (VIN)
Thank you for your request for a DVLA VIN, the number has been allocated and can be found below.
There is a legal requirement under the Road Vehicle (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986 that the VIN of every vehicle to which this regulation
applies shall be marked on the bodywork and on a plate attached to the vehicle. The number should be stamped or permanently embossed on the off side
of the vehicle, in a clearly visible and accessible position, and by a method such as hammering or stamping, in a way that it cannot be obliterated or
deteriorate. It should also be stamped or embossed on a plate that is attached to the vehicle.
The DVLA has therefore allocated to your vehicle the VIN: DVLASWAxxxxxxxx
Please arrange through a franchised dealer or local garage for this number to be stamped or permanently embossed, on the chassis/frame/bodywork of the
vehicle.
It is in your own interest to ensure that you comply with this legal requirement. In order to obtain an MOT certificate the testing centre is required
to check that the VIN is displayed on the vehicle.
IMPORTANT
To facilitate registration it is necessary for the dealer/garage to confirm that the VIN has been stamped or permanently embossed on the vehicle.
Please ensure this letter is authorised below by the dealer/garage and returned to , DVLA, Swansea SA99 1ZZ. REGISTRATION WILL NOT TAKE EFFECT UNTIL
THE DVLA RECEIVES THIS CONFIRMATION.
I/We confirm that VIN............................................... has been stamped or permanently embossed on the chassis/frame/bodywork.
DEALER/GARAGE SIGNATURE
.. DEALER/GARAGE STAMP
A hard copy of this letter has been posted to you also.
Yours sincerely
Got to get a garage to confirm it is stamped correctly onto my chassis, they may be waiting a while!
If it ain't broken, fix it anyway (just because).
Building - BMW powered Haynes Roadster/442E hybrid.
Volvo C30 T5 Polestar
|
|
|
