Boothy
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| posted on 28/10/17 at 05:53 PM |
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looking brilliant
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Tommes
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| posted on 29/10/17 at 02:43 PM |
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Thanks guys.
I did some planning and measuring today, due to family and work i don't have a lot of time to go to the garage these days.
But: i want to sort out the issues for the TÜV asap.
First thing:
couldn't find any loose cable in the engine bay. Have to ask the TÜV guy what he was talking about.
Second thing: there are 50mm flanges on each side of the car.
That makes the car 183cm wide (outside of the tires).
In the front the car is 175cm wide (without any distance flanges)
Actually i would like the car to be less wide in the rear. I wouldn't mind if it had the same width as in the front.
So i would have to go from 50mm to 10mm (even wouldnt mind 0) flanges to get to a width of 175cm (wich would also help me finding a trailer).
The rear arches are 39cm wide and they stick over the tires by 2cms.
Keeping in mind the 40mm i would take away and the 2cms, that could be reduced to 1cm, i would need smaller rear arches with a width of 34cm
I already thought about changing them, as they have had a rough life in bulgaria 
Do you guys know a supplier for rear arches? i dont mind if they are shaped a bit differently to the dax rush originals.
Getting back to the exhaust. I also measured the dimensions as i want to give it more internal flow. i will replace the internals of the r1 exhaust
with a straight 65mm pipe, as it seems to be restricitve. the downpipe from the turbo to the silencer will be cut and a (racing) catalytic converter
will be mounted to at least be able to get a minimum cleaning of the exhaust gasses and be allowed to enter downtonwn. Keeping in mind that this will
create some noise cancelling i am going to shorten the R1 damper by 5 to 10 cms.
Any Tips about the uneven brake balance of the handbrake? The lever is under the steering wheel and i have to pull it to the limit to make the car
stay in position when parked up- or downhill. The adjustment of the cable is on its limit....
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Tommes
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| posted on 29/10/17 at 03:27 PM |
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The rear arches wich come closest are these
http://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/mk-indy-rear-wheel-arches-grp-extra-wide-pair-13-5.html
345mm wide... now i have to know if they will fit the dax rush chassis.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 29/10/17 at 07:38 PM |
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The difference between dax rear wings and every other version is that the dax ones are not parallel, as the chassis tapers all the way to the back.
They used to make narrow rear arches, but last I heard no one knew what happened to those moulds 
The std wide ones can be cut down though, a few folk have done it.
I'd try getting in touch with M.A.N. Motorsport in Leeds - they bought the rights to the rush along with all the jigs and moulds
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Tommes
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 05:39 AM |
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OK, i will try to call Nigel. Had him on the phone some months ago for a windscreen assembly, but never got the price liste he wanted to send me
unfortunately. Will keep you up to date.
Cutting them down is surely possible, but not my favourite solution as they look quiet fucked up and i am not sure if thats worth it.... at least i
could train my cutting skills....:-)
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mcerd1
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| posted on 30/10/17 at 09:21 AM |
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Its also worth saying that the original dax rear wings were never exactly a perfect pair -
http://www.alfadax.com/content/during/12/suspension_arches.htm
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Tommes
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| posted on 31/10/17 at 04:46 PM |
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I talked to Nigel from M.A.N., he will see if somewhere in his stock there are some narrow wings left.
I also chatted with a guy from my neighborhood who is a painter. And he gave me a hint how to easily narrow the wheel arches by myself.
I only have to get me some material to start working. Will post pictures...
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twybrow
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| posted on 31/10/17 at 07:47 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Tommes
I talked to Nigel from M.A.N., he will see if somewhere in his stock there are some narrow wings left.
I also chatted with a guy from my neighborhood who is a painter. And he gave me a hint how to easily narrow the wheel arches by myself.
I only have to get me some material to start working. Will post pictures...
They are fibreglass so should be no problem to modify seamlessly, but you may need to repaint them or touch up the gelcoat depending upon what your
bodywork has.
Nice rebuild so far - fingers crossed for a good result with the TUV!
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Tommes
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| posted on 7/2/18 at 09:52 AM |
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TÜV is pending at the moment due to winter. Dont want to go 40 kms to the TÜV guy without winter tires.
I took the chance to ad some modifications to the car during the bad weather period:
The rear arches where rebuilt (and shortened by 2" on each side) with grp and painted. They are back on the car and look really nice.
the position of the lights was also modified.
I got a bluetooth dongle for the Megasquirt. I installed MSDroid on my Smartphone and now can use it as a dash, read all the infos i want and change
the tune while driving. That works really well.
The old bulbs of my dashs where all different and mostly only glowing, not really well working in the dark. I got some LED replacements and that
changed the look completely. I am working on a RGB controller for the Speedo to make it change its colors when i get close to the limiter. It gets is
infos from the mega. But thats only a small side project with almost zero priority.
Last week, muffler spare parts arrived. I shortened the original can that came with the car by 6" (inxo trackday silencer), it had almost burned
all the damping material, so it will be rebuild and a v-band clamp will be welded on so i will be able to change silencers quickly.
The carbon version will also be shortened and gets a new interieur, i ordered a 2.5" meshed tube that will be welded in next week. The goal is
to have the same length for both mufflers so the can use the same fixing point. Should be an easy job.
I also made a new gear stick from a M10 INOX screw. Ordered a lot of parts in China some time ago for testing the quality and they arrived. Some nice
carbon fibre gear knobs, a lot of anodized aluminum parts and some black silicon hoses. Bargain... and the quality is actually surprisingly good.
 [
/url]
[url=https://picload.org/view/daggorli/img_20171202_150426_hht.jpg.html] [
/url]
Then i used a CAD software to do some designing. I always liked th 2 color classic sheme
[url=https://picload.org/view/daggorlw/img_20180106_113243.jpg.html]
The color from this one is stunning, should be a BMW M color, i unfortunately cant find the thread anymore. Maybe someone can help me with that.
And last, but not least: i am looking for a Donki or RMN style nose cone to modify and put it on my car. I already started a thread in the for sale
section, but cant be wrong to have it here also i think.
[url=https://picload.org/view/daggorow/img_20180109_064733_hdr.jpg.html] [
/url]
[Edited on 7/2/18 by Tommes]
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big_wasa
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| posted on 7/2/18 at 11:22 AM |
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It's "Dave666" locost
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Tommes
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| posted on 7/2/18 at 11:36 AM |
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Thank you.
One thing i forgot. Since yesterday, there is a new Sierra Cosworth Diff (3.62 LSD) sitting next to the car and waiting to replace the 4.12 Standard
Diff that is still installed. This should make the car more suitable for german roads.
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Mave
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| posted on 7/2/18 at 07:25 PM |
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Hi, you can buy a lot of very nice Rush parts in Germany, from Christof Rothe:
http://www.cr-modelltechnik.de/7zuframe.htm
Also a (carbon) nosecone. Prices are actually not too ridiculous, and I was very happy with the carbon cycles wings I bought from him.
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Tommes
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| posted on 15/2/18 at 09:30 AM |
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What rubber profile do you guys use between the windscreen frame and the scuttle?
I have a Westfield frame with supports wich will be fitted to the Dax. The fitting is quiet good. Only issue is a small gap between the bottom end of
the frame and the scuttle wich i would like to fill with this rubber part. Is there anything universal?
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40inches
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| posted on 15/2/18 at 10:05 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Tommes
What rubber profile do you guys use between the windscreen frame and the scuttle?
I have a Westfield frame with supports wich will be fitted to the Dax. The fitting is quiet good. Only issue is a small gap between the bottom end of
the frame and the scuttle wich i would like to fill with this rubber part. Is there anything universal?
I used a standard rubber profile, bonded on with Sikaflex. Will try to find who I got it from 
 
Description
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Tommes
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| posted on 15/2/18 at 10:14 AM |
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Actually, it was your picture that made me ask the question.
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40inches
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| posted on 15/2/18 at 10:50 AM |
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This is the seal I used https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1794/rubber-extrusion
I cut the bottom lip off to make a L section to bond on to the screen frame.
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Tommes
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| posted on 10/4/18 at 06:43 AM |
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Hey guys,
just a quick follow up about the current status.
Weather is becoming better in Germany and i could burn some fuel.
So far the car behaves great so i wanted to go to the TÜV yesterday.
Unfortunately, i found some drips under the car and checked further.
There was a corrupt brake line connection close to the rear left brake caliper.
The fluid had gone down the hole frame and sprayed everywhere, causing the paint on the frame to come off completely.
So, yesterday evening i repaired the connection, flushed the whole system and put new fluid in (thanks to a manual vacuum pump back from my motorcycle
days its an easy job) and the brakes feel much better now. No more leaks for the moment, so i will go to the TÜV today.
Only concern: i have to repaint the frame because it has really been stripped down to bare metal. What paint do you use for the frame (it is a glossy
black), i think i will just use a brush and some standard black paint as it is not really visible without taking a closer look.....
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CTLeeds
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| posted on 10/4/18 at 10:44 AM |
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Hi Tommes, good to see the build progressing. I've just touched up some areas on my Rush chassis in places that I had to modify it to fit the
BMW engine and gearbox i'm using. I opted for acid etch primer and then black gloss metal paint both applied with a brush. As you say,
it's in places that can't be seen and actually doesn't look too bad next to the powdercoat.
Regards,
Chris
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Angel Acevedo
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| posted on 10/4/18 at 02:45 PM |
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Here in my area, preferred primer is High Solids Zinc rich Primer... Then topcoat to match the rest..
Beware of what you wish.. for it may come true....
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Tommes
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 posted on 10/4/18 at 07:16 PM |
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So i failed to pass german TÜV today. Reasons:
- missing emark on the flexible brake lines
- i have to put the frame number to another position. On the Dax chassis it is on the left, german regulations say on the right side.
- some fuel lines have to be rerouted a bit
- the cable connectors on the fuel pumps have to be redone
- i ripped of the hand brake cable during brake testing
- i have to make sure that the solid brake lines are not only copper, but chopper with nickel or steel. Not sure at the moment. He wants steel. They
are either copper or chopper nickel. Maybe i have to redo them completely. That would suck. Have never done that.
- last but not least: he measured the exhaust gases. The car runs very rich in idle and he only measures in idle for cars of this age. The level of
carbonic oxide gas is too high. Must make adjustments to the map to reduce this or install a catalytic converter. Adjustments should do the job i
think. it only has to pass the test and can be reset to a richer value afterwards...
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CTLeeds
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| posted on 10/4/18 at 07:38 PM |
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Bad luck but at least you now know what needs to be done. Questioning the composition of the brake lines is harsh. I think copper nickel pipe is
called "cunifer" in the UK. I think remaking the lines in steel would be near to impossible for an amateur builder.
My Dax chassis number is stamped on the right, I guess they stamped yours on the left as its a LHD chassis?
Chris
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mcerd1
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| posted on 11/4/18 at 08:01 AM |
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Dax used to sell brake lines from Automec with the kits: https://www.automec.co.uk/
I thats what was used on your one then it would have had the specification printed on it along the length of the pipe (maybe some of that writing
survived / isn't too badly corroded)
otherwise you've not got much to go on except the colour of the pipe (once you clean off any corrosion) - Cupro Nickel looks more like gun metal
than pure copper: https://www.automec.co.uk/collections/brake-pipe-coils
Cupro Nickel is better, but slightly harder to work with
I'll check the part numbers on the handbrake cable - I think at least part of it is a standard ford part
[Edited on 11/4/2018 by mcerd1]
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Tommes
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| posted on 11/4/18 at 08:26 AM |
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Hey,
thank you. Dont bother with the hand brake cable, i think i didn't fit it good enough on the hand brake lever and it didn't brake, the
connection has just gone loose.
For the brake lines: it is really hard to tell follwoing the colours. I know that the pipes in my car where not supplied by Dax but bought seperately.
The previous owner is checking, but i will also look for any printing on them.
Do you know more about the flexible brake lines that i have to order? Brake calipers front and rear are Ford, so i guess it is M10x1, the other side
is something different.
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Tommes
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| posted on 11/4/18 at 08:28 AM |
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But if i check the colors, it looks way more like copper than cupro.....
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mcerd1
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| posted on 11/4/18 at 03:52 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Tommes
Do you know more about the flexible brake lines that i have to order? Brake calipers front and rear are Ford, so i guess it is M10x1, the other side
is something different.
the flexi pipes will depend on if they were the dax supplied ones or not
DJ's (dax) supplied flexi with a bulkhead M10x1.0 female end for the car / chassis - with an M10x1.0 bango bolt for the caliper (helps with
clearance and pipe routing compared to the stock ford ones)
dax seem to have supplied these with female unions on the hard lines too, and then use a male to male adaptor / inline connector to join them (like
this: linky )
not sure what the logic was here, best I can guess is that it mean you don't have disturb the hard line to change a flexi, either that or the
specification of the flexi's changed at some point and they added the adaptor rather than change the specification of the pipe kit.
but it you have to change the hard lines at all then I guess you can do what you like - within the TUV rules at least....
also if the master cylinders were supplied by dax then they will most likely have 3/8" fittings (24 tpi) rather than metric ones they used for
the rest of the system...
[Edited on 11/4/2018 by mcerd1]
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[
/url] 
