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Author: Subject: Maintenance
swanny

posted on 14/11/18 at 11:44 AM Reply With Quote
Maintenance

Hello all,

this question will be really obvious to most of you but i'm a mechanical numpty, and the local garage looks after my car.

The car had not really been driven for a few years before i got it, and a few things were obviously not working which have now all been sorted. (stepper motor not working, overheating, gearbox mounts knackered, caliper seizing (only temporarily sorted)

its now great, powerfull, cool, and easy to get in gear!

I would like to get onto preventative stuff now as I'm doing le mans in it next year.

My thoughts would be :

oil changed/topped up (engine gearbox diff)

Leads replaced, filters

The brakes will need doing so I'll treat it and source new calipers disks and pads.

its rose jointed, and the garage did say that they weren't the best but that it wasnt an immediate problem.

the local garage are very good, but i'd like to give them a sensible list to work through of what is likely to need doing on a car of this type at 20 years old.

Thanks

paul

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davew823

posted on 14/11/18 at 12:12 PM Reply With Quote
Maintenance check list

Here is my 10,000 mile check list. It for a 4AGE engine and T-50 trans, so slight changes will be required for your power train.

10,000 mile Seven Maintenance Check List
Check Fasteners
Engine mounts, Alternator & Brackets
Front & Rear Suspension attachments pts
Lug nuts [rotate tires] & Caliper bolts
Exhaust, heat shield, & Hanger
Steering U-Joints, Rack Mounts, Rod ends, & Steering wheel
Front Fender Brackets & Mounting
Head Light Mounting Brackets & Stems
Trunk Access panel
Grease or lube
Drive shaft
Front Wheel Bearings & adjust [every 20K]
Trans & Diff top off
Brake & Clutch Linkage pivots
Throttle Cable & TB shaft & Heater valve control cable [Dry Lube]
E-brake Cable
Clutch push rod
Clean & re-lube Rod Ends [CVJ grease] (Replace seals as required)
Steering shaft fire wall bushing, & mid shaft support
Inspect the Follow Items
Fuel line, pressure & return, tank drain plug
Oil cooler & Lines Fittings
Brake Lines & Fittings
Clutch Line
Cam Belt + tension [clean W/ alcohol]
Coolant Hoses, Clamps, Hanger
Wiper Blades & Washer Fluid
All Switches & Bulbs
Front & Rear Brake pads plus sliding pins (record thickness)
Replace the Following Items
Spark Plugs (NGK BCPR5EY-11) [Every 10K]
Brake Fluid & bleed four corners, Clutch Fluid [every 20K]
Transmission only use GL-4 [every 20K]
Rear Diff GL-5 over fill by 6 oz if used in auto-x [every 20K]
Top-off coolant W/ 50-50 mix
Clean the Following Items
Under Side of Chassis [paint as reqd]
Seat Belts & Under seats
Air Filter & Cold Air Box
Battery & Box, Top off cells
Shock Adj Threads & re-tape
Radiator and Oil cooler

Davew823

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swanny

posted on 14/11/18 at 12:19 PM Reply With Quote
thats awesome thanks

paul

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cliftyhanger

posted on 14/11/18 at 01:08 PM Reply With Quote
Plug leads, if they are decent quality (ie Original or magnecor) I would leave well alone unless there is an issue. If you want to replace, I would use genuine original stuff (NOT stuff that claims to be equivelent!)

Oils. Choose the quality carefully. Garages will ften stick what they think should be in there, right or wrong. The GL4 or 5 rating IS important. Type 9 gearboxes like 75/90 semi synthetic GL4. Comma SX75 90, millers TRX are 2.

Generally, buy good quality parts, a small extra amount of cash is often money well spent.

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steve m

posted on 14/11/18 at 06:03 PM Reply With Quote
Dave's list above is a good start, and something along the lines , that I do every winter, and have done for pretty well every year since 1998 !!

The "other" list I would look at would be a major service regime, of any normal car of the same vintage, plus an MOT, and that would pretty well cover everything

steve





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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