quote:Originally posted by jacko
Hi Mate long time .
I've only just started to come back on this forum after along time
It's good to see a build with a pinto just a little info the engine mounting stabiliser you have in your photo archives is the one I made and
it worked very well and stopped every thing rocking
Jacko
quote:Originally posted by bob
Nice to see another excellent build diary and photo log, Sera you never seem to disappoint.
Ive been away for a few years too and good to see old friends still putting the hours in, will be nice to see another car finished.
Thanks guys. It's good to have a another project, and something to get stuck into. I wanted to keep this one pretty old school, hence the pinto.
Something basic and fun.
Today I've been on the lathe lightening the flywheel and machining the crank pulley for the trigger wheel.
Flywheel was pretty straightforward. Skimmed 0.5mm off the front to clean it up. Then machined off all the outer weight on the back. Standard stuff
really. Overall thickness is 12mm. Also checked balance and all OK.
Inlet manifold for the R1 carbs arrived while I was away for work. So that gave me something else to do today. Fitting the filter backplate was fun
since the bolts which had to be removed from the carbs had been fitted with loctite. Nothing a gentle application of a blowtorch didn't fix, but
a pain nonetheless...
Also did a little more wiring and made some brackets for the radiator.
It'd be interesting to see if there are any differences between a bike carb set up like yours and one like mine where the carbs are respaced to
match the engine inlets.
Fitted the drivers seat - had to weld some bits of box section in to suit the mounts on the seats, since they are generic ones. Snug fit, but they go
in there....
New starter turned up, so fitted that. A smaller, modern, gear reduction unit which should help crank it over.
Made a pipe up for the water pump to head bypass hose. Need to get some clips, seem to have run out of the correct sized ones. Neater than a bit of
hose cable tied to the chassis I guess.
Tidied up the alternator wiring
Messing around with positioning for the header tank. Anyone know how much room there is under the back edge of the nose? Wondering if I can fit it at
the front out of the way. Its about 6" tall. If not I'll put it infront of the battery.
I'd be intertested to know the radiator plumbing layout you are using, i'm using a Pinto with polo rad. I know there are multiple posts
on here, but it seems there is more than one possible solution!
quote:Originally posted by jps
I'd be intertested to know the radiator plumbing layout you are using, i'm using a Pinto with polo rad. I know there are multiple posts
on here, but it seems there is more than one possible solution!
Pretty simple:
Water pump to bottom of rad
T'stat housing to top of rad
Header tank teed into bottom hose
T'stat breather to top of header tank
Small outlet on water pump connected to inlet side of head between cyl 2 and 3 - (this is the old heater circuit, flow helps keep the head cooler)
Some people block off the old heater circuit but I find it helps with cooling.
Faffed about and plumbed most of the rest of the cooling system, made up a throttle cable and some HT leads up since it's hardly a standard
layout....
Take off in the top hose is the highest point of the system so will be connected back to the top of the header tank. The connection in the bottom hose
will be the feed from the header tank.
Hopefully won't be far off firing it up this weekend.
Very nice. I love old school Pinto engines (and crossflows)
One piece of constructive critisism; that inlet manifold is truly awful. Air doesn't go around sharp corners, and the pattern of airflow through
those inlet runners will SEVERELY restrict your capacity to make power. You'll probably only get half the airflow in CFM that you would with
straight inlet runners and respaced carbs. I know the maker of these manifolds sells hundreds of these things, but that doesn't make them
right!
I've often wondered about how respaced bike carbs would compare with ones on a manifold like Sera's. Mine are respaced because I was too
tight to buy an expensive manifold and just fitted them in the same way as Mr Kawasaki did. I'm sure mine are far from optimal though as the
inlet tract is very short.
quote:Originally posted by Memphis
Very nice. I love old school Pinto engines (and crossflows)
One piece of constructive critisism; that inlet manifold is truly awful. Air doesn't go around sharp corners, and the pattern of airflow through
those inlet runners will SEVERELY restrict your capacity to make power. You'll probably only get half the airflow in CFM that you would with
straight inlet runners and respaced carbs. I know the maker of these manifolds sells hundreds of these things, but that doesn't make them
right!
Cheers Chris
Yep, I know... I'm just getting lazy in my old age. I was going to make a manifold myself, but couldn't be arsed. They are actually well
smoothed off inside since they are made of really thick tube. Not ideal, but like I said, I'm lazy.
I was too tight to shell out on some 45 DCOEs, maybe one day.
Be interesting to see what it makes on a rolling road with the bike carbs and then again with sidedraughts.
Photo Archive
Building: MK -INDY 2 LT ON zx9r bike carbs Now sold
posted on 29/2/20 at 04:50 PM
Sera
Take it from me you will have no trouble with the manifold you have if you have a hunt around my archives you will find the carbs and manifold I made
for su carbs and bike carbs
You are doing a great job the only thing I have found different to my build is the water pipe work I had no tee,s in my rad pipes
Top rad to termastat
Bottom rad to water pump i
Inlet manifold to header tank
Small pipe from water pump to tank
Tank top had a blow off top
Again look at my photos
Graham
quote:Originally posted by jacko
Sera
Take it from me you will have no trouble with the manifold you have if you have a hunt around my archives you will find the carbs and manifold I made
for su carbs and bike carbs
You are doing a great job the only thing I have found different to my build is the water pipe work I had no tee,s in my rad pipes
Top rad to termastat
Bottom rad to water pump i
Inlet manifold to header tank
Small pipe from water pump to tank
Tank top had a blow off top
Again look at my photos
Graham
Cheers Graham - my original pinto was plumbed the same as yours. Was never an issue but it always ran a bit on the hot side, wanted to play around and
see if allowing more flow around the head will keep it cooler.
Done a fair bit of stuff this weekend, and eventually got the car fired up. It's running a base map in the megajolt and I haven't touched
the carb set up or checked the balance, but it's not running too bad.
Started off throwing fuel every where as the o-rings in the float seats had dried out and were allowing fuel past the seat inserts. Whipped the carbs
off and fitted new o-rings. Problem solved.
Ran it at 2-2.5k RPM for 20 mins to bed the cam in and had no over heating, no leaks or any issues, which was some kind of miracle.
Let it cool down a bit and then set the idle speed.
Need to verify the ignition timing and carb mixture and balance and also fit a choke cable. That will have to wait until next weekend now. But overall
pretty happy it's not making any horrible noises and didn't blow up
quote:Originally posted by jacko
Sera
Take it from me you will have no trouble with the manifold you have if you have a hunt around my archives you will find the carbs and manifold I made
for su carbs and bike carbs
You are doing a great job the only thing I have found different to my build is the water pipe work I had no tee,s in my rad pipes
Top rad to termastat
Bottom rad to water pump i
Inlet manifold to header tank
Small pipe from water pump to tank
Tank top had a blow off top
Again look at my photos
Graham
Yes you'll have no trouble with the manifold under normal conditions on the road, but if (when) you come to tune the engine for serious power,
it will be very restrictive.
Only thing I spotted and might be worth mentioning... for my JBA roadster I too used a "solid" column omitting the usual rubber shock
absorber disk next the the rack input and I can only assume due to slight chassis flex the column hammered the bejesus out my rack pinion bearing till
it all kind of fell apart after that escapade I refitted the disk and all was well, plus it kind of felt better too
Oh yeah one other thing, and I'm sure your not a stupid as me I replaced the alternator lower bolt (yours looks very shiny so I'm
assuming it's not the original one) with a bolt that was threaded all the way through not thinking very much of it until the thread fatigued,
bolt broke, alternator swung forward and hit the fan which then exploded and took out the radiator... oops
Have you finished the throttle pedal connection to the carbs? I've got a very nearly identical set up but having never done anything like this
before I'm not too sure whats the best connection method ?
Have you finished the throttle pedal connection to the carbs? I've got a very nearly identical set up but having never done anything like this
before I'm not too sure whats the best connection method ?
Jason
Hi Jason, yes I used a generic Venhill kit off eBay, about 18 quid I think. Comes with all the fittings you need.
