Ian-B
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| posted on 27/3/09 at 06:51 PM |
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For more affordable CAD Alibre is worth a look, they have limited feature free version - Alibre xpress, still usable for modelling the majority of
parts, their full versions are much cheaper than solidworks. www.alibre.com
I have been using the full version for a few years now and have been able to design a complete car including body without any significant problems.
I have never used solidworks so cannot give a comparison, but I do use Catia V5 in comparison to this alibre is easier to use however, has a slightly
more bugs, but does not have any surfacing capability.
Ian
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CobaltFire
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| posted on 28/3/09 at 09:18 PM |
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How much tire is too much? I know that you want to match tire to car to generate proper tire temps. The issue here is that I have a set of
18x9.5" wheels with 265/35-18 GoodYear F1's on them sitting in my garage. Is this going to be way too much tire for a car this size? My
gut says "Yes, but it will GRIP". Inputs?
EDIT: According to my math, using the Pinto Spindles with these wheels will result in a scrub radius of 200.1246mm. A bit much, I suppose...
[Edited on 28/3/09 by CobaltFire]
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Tralfaz
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| posted on 29/3/09 at 01:24 PM |
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I would agree that they are likely too big to properly warm.
Also, an online chart suggests a weight of 30 lbs for the F1 tire, likely another 17 lbs or more (Guess) or more for the wheel.
Unsprung weight is getting a bit high for a small lightweight car.
For a Seven type car (or similar) a total weight of 30 lbs or less would be desirable. (My SSR wheels with AVON tires weigh about 27 lbs per corner)
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RK
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| posted on 30/3/09 at 01:10 PM |
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Last from me:
Using a Locost as a way to use up spare parts won't result in a good car. There will be too many compromises. The Se7en looks like a versatile
design, but as soon as you deviate, you introduce a lot of other problems (clearance, etc). I had put all my fuses, battery and ECU in the foot of the
passenger footwell, thinking that was a neat solution to wires all over. That left no room for the passenger's feet when I put the seat in! So I
moved the battery outside to the engine compartment, and the fuses to under the scuttle, behind the dash. Now there's lots of room. And
coincidentally, that's where everyone else puts them!
Also, I bought a rusted, non-roadworthy, 84 Celica to use as a donor. I thought: rear wheel drive, IRS, engine good, rims nice... I used 1/2 the seat
runner on the passenger side, and 1/2 from the drivers side, and made one for the drivers side for my car. That is ALL I used from $1000 donor. As
I've said, mistakes have been made...
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kb58
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| posted on 30/3/09 at 01:43 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by RK
I wish people were honest with me when I started. They were not. They all said "hey, no probs, anybody can do this", especially the
American "we can do anything" types. and not everybody can.
I run into this myself. There's a fellow on another forum who's decided to make his own V8 using two Honda cylinder heads. Okay,
everyone's egging him on, "it'll be awesome", and, "can't wait to hear it run", then there's me,
saying it isn't going to be easy, what with cooling, lubrication, and vibration issues a huge developmental program for someone who hasn't
done it before. Alas, all his "supporters" jump all over me for being negative. He knows CAD, which can be a very dangerous thing. Good
fabrication isn't the same as good engineering.
Oh well, guess I'll sit back and watch... oh dear, this seems to have turned into a rant. What were we talking about again?
Seriously, you bring up a good point, but a positive mental attitude is important for success. It all depends what you want to focus on. I mean, do
you choose to listen to people who say you can do it, or those who say you can't? What do you really want to hear? Neither advice set is
particularly useful without a huge explanation of your skillset, income, spare time, personality, tenaciousness, it doesn't really matter much
what's said.
Keep in mind it took me 10 years to build my scratch-built mid-engine Mini...
[Edited on 3/30/09 by kb58]
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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CobaltFire
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| posted on 30/3/09 at 04:19 PM |
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kb58
I've actually considered buying your book, and have followed your posts closely for 2 years, so I'm quite familiar with what you had to
do.
As far as the wheels, they are just spares I happened to have for my car and they happen to fit a bolt-pattern available on the Pinto Spindles, so it
was more of a talking out loud moment.
I'm taking a bit of time with my father to decide what I REALLY want out of this vehicle. I've already decided that it will not be a race
car, but more of a traditional roadster.
I have a positive attitude, and as I stated before the main purpose of this build is to expand my knowledge of the engineering/design/tuning of a
vehicle. In that respect, I have little desire to follow the well-worn path that a kit or the Locost/Haynes plans represent without at least some
modification.
Thanks to everyone again for the varied and honest responses! Once I figure out exactly what I am aiming for I'll post up some more details!
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kb58
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| posted on 30/3/09 at 05:21 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by CobaltFire
I'm taking a bit of time with my father to decide what I REALLY want out of this vehicle.
Hah, that's the first chapter, deciding what the goal is.
Mid-engine Locost - http://www.midlana.com
And the book - http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/midlana/paperback/product-21330662.html
Kimini - a tube-frame, carbon shell, Honda Prelude VTEC mid-engine Mini: http://www.kimini.com
And its book -
http://www.lulu.com/shop/kurt-bilinski/kimini-how-to-design-and-build-a-mid-engine-sports-car-from-scratch/paperback/product-4858803.html
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40inches
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| posted on 31/3/09 at 01:52 PM |
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As far as CAD is concerned, I have Solidworks but 90% of the time use DeltaCad, i'ts the easiest one to learn and very intuative and reads and
writes .DWG, .DXF, and .DXB files.
Oh! and did I say it is cheap at $40 http://www.deltacad.com/
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