kit_car_kid06
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 01:08 PM |
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Robin Hood, Locost.....comparison
Hi,
its been a while since I last paid a visit - but circumstances have changed for the better and I'm looking at finally getting behind the wheel
of one of the many kit car varieties!
I've probably been looking in totally the wrong place, but I've noticed there are some gorgeous cars for sale on ebay.
I also noticed that the Robin Hoods seem to sell for less than locosts?? Why is this?
Also it appears that particularly the robin hoods with the longer front wheel arches sell for less than the ones with the "bike arches"
(not sure if thats the right name - I'm on about the ones that are more circular!).
From doing abit of research I found out you can buy the round wheel arches direct from robin hood, already painted?? - sorted!!
My question is - do Robin Hoods handle differently (or not as well as) to Locosts with respect to the chassis rigidity? (I understand suspension
fitted by the builder would play a big part)
I have no intention of track racing it, but would be a little disappointed if I bought a robin hood, expecting sporty chassis performance and its
purely a "posers" car.
So basically - what is the difference!?
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smart51
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 01:21 PM |
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Robin Hood made the cheapest seven lookalike you could buy. They have a certian reputation that may support the phrase "you get what you pay
for". The sale price of robin hoods probably reflects what people are prepared to pay for them.
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Keith Weiland
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 01:24 PM |
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I might be wrong but...
The robin hood uses a Monocoque chassis where the locost and most other sevenesque cars use a spaceframe. I understand the Robin hood is generally
considered to be not very desirable due to weight and size and build quality. I am not speaking from experience however. Please correct me if I am
wrong.
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marcjagman
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 01:27 PM |
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I have been looking at Robin Hoods (now GBS) and it would appear that there are good and bad ones around. It would appear that the kits weren't
always 100% and a lot of people didn't take the time and trouble to sort the problems out and basically just made things fit. If, like me, you
are considering a Robin Hood look carefully at the finish/build quality.
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BenB
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 01:38 PM |
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They are relatively quite large and heavy compared to most Se7ens (the largeness can be a good thing if you're large!! more room in the
cockpit).
Some of older 2Bs used slidding pillar front suspension which requires maintainance and isn't as popular as coil in shock (although many people
upgraded to the coil in shock option).
Some of the contruction bits are tricky. A lot of the parts are just sheets of metal that then need bending etc to shape. The rear wheel arch was
supplied, for example, as a flat sheet of metal for the fore/aft curve and a glass fibre piece for the outer rolled edge. You had to attach them
together and fill / work smooth... Tricky to do well....
There are some good RHs out there and, being big, they can take large capacity engines well.... But as a very cheap kit there are some cars out there
that haven't had money or time spent on them and consequently aren't that desirable... (ie large, heavy, poorly nailed together and with a
1.6L Pinto straight out of a doner in it)...
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kit_car_kid06
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 01:59 PM |
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So basically, I'd be disappointed if I bought a RH?
I know these arent the right words to be saying, but I'm looking for the cheapest but best build quality available for a £2.5k/3k budget.
Theres no way I can afford to pay for and run my everyday car (brand new Fiesta ZS) and afford a 5k kit car - I'm desperate to get behind the
wheel of my own RH/locost or the like!
What are your suggestions?
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graememk
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 02:05 PM |
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theres nothing to stop you buying one like i did then sell it when you have a few more pennies, there all only as good as you build them
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CAD Monkey
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 02:05 PM |
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For what it's worth, I've seen several sites (albeit a while ago now) and met several people who stated that the Robin Hoods -
particularly the 2B model which were shown looking great in the literature were extremely difficult to build due to poor accuracy during manufacture
such as chassis tubes significantly out of place, wishbones not fitting etc. etc. Having seen some very well finished examples at Stoneleigh a few
years ago in the owners' club area it is my opinion that the proportions of the car are completely wrong and that the styling is extremely
clumsy.
The chassis was a spaceframe unit but most of the tubes were bent rather than cut and then butt welded.
These are only things I have picked up from others and obviously my own opinion on the style.
I'm on a very tight budget and wouldn't entertain a RH. Try looking at Chris G's Roadster book, that's what I'm building
[Edited on 21/5/07 by CAD Monkey]
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BenB
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 02:12 PM |
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If I was trying to build something on a budget I'd buy an unfinished kit (usually for a lot less than the sum of its parts), take it all apart
and put it together properly.....
People who sell kits half-way through sometimes loose the skill or patience to finish the job so workmanship can be suspect...
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Pdlewis
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 02:28 PM |
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I do agree with some of the points but overall i am very happy with mine (after spending a long winter engine transplanting replacing pannels etc)
Have a look in my archive for some pics 
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Steve Lovelock
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 02:35 PM |
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I built a 2B and really enjoyed doing it. But it is heavy and so was slowish to drive. The biggest thing is the budget as mine cost £4,500 to build
and I was fairly careful. I agree with the earlier comment that to get the best value buy a half built kit and double check what has been done.
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worX
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 03:31 PM |
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I will second (or third/fouth!) what others have said re the budget you have and a part built.
I would also suggest that you look around at finished cars that might have undesirable engines (by modern choices) like standard pintos, standard 1300
kent engines etc, and then upgrade when you can afford it to bike/zetec/vauxhall etc.
that way you'll still get the driving experience - familiarise yourself with the car and handling etc and then just do it when you can!
hth
Steve
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britishtrident
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 06:27 PM |
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The long standing problem with Robin Hood is that while they knew how to drive production cost down they knew sweet F A about automotive engineering,
particularly the suspension. They used every suspension system known to automotive engineering over the years and never got any to work properly.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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jambo
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 08:02 PM |
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quote
They used every suspension system known to automotive engineering over the years and never got any to work properly.
2b wishbone is the one you want if you go the robin hood way
it uses the sierra back end (good enough for ford) and a usual wishbone front.
the cars are a little heavier due to there roomier size and much larger tubular chassis.the biggest issue they had was putting it together but if you
are buying one built then that wont effect you.
like everyone knows you get what you pay for and its all down to the builder of any kit especially rh's.
what i like about some of the hoods is the stainless steel chassis and pannels that give you a non rusting luxury and a very eye catching look.
if you have 3 grand to spend then i would advise you to look at a good number of cars before you buy and this will get you a car you are happy
with.
i am personally happy with the look and build of my car.
i have and built a 2b that i like for the mone
[Edited on 22/5/07 by jambo]
 
Rescued attachment gh.jpg
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kit_car_kid06
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 09:24 PM |
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Jambo, if I find a car that looks as good as yours I'd be over the moon! Very very nice!!
To be honest I was thinking about buying a built car rather than building - or perhaps finding an unfinished project that jsut needs finishing touches
(although they're hard to find!)
Think i'll take your advise and find a car with a smaller engine that wouldnt be so popular and go from there.
How about goin for something that looks unpopular - like a dutton phaeton or something? Are there any kits out there that I can change the panels to
make it look more like the car im after?
I know it seems im clutching at straws but im trying all avenues.
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worX
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| posted on 21/5/07 at 09:49 PM |
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It depends whether you want a car to drive immediately...
If you are willing to bide your time - take a loooong look through ebay and scavenge this site for all of peoples extra/spare bits and pieces and put
up with seconds for your F/G etc you might be better off getting a prt built and only finishing it when you have the funds to do so.
you could always stretch your budget a tiny bit by getting a small loan, but that is of course up to you (it's what I did - well - mine
wasn't a small loan!) and doesn't suit everyone etc!
all the best in whatever desicion you make!!
Steve
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flak monkey
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| posted on 22/5/07 at 11:44 AM |
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It depends what you want.
For 2.5-3k you could scratch build a car, and there are several people on here that have done it to that sort of budget.
The RH tubular frame is appalling from a technical point of view.
The sierra rear end is a heavy lump, and not really 'sports car' design.
Its all about saving money where you can, take my car as an example, because I know it inside out:
Its cost me £5.5k in the spec you see on my site, which is a touch under the average build cost I would say. I know this is well over your budget. But
considering I spent extra money in some areas, like £500 on tuning/rebuilding the engine, £350 on a new set of wheels, £325 on a s/s exhaust and £600+
on full fibreglass. Where in reality i could have stuck the engine straight in, at a cost of £30, bought a s/h set of wheels for £50 made an exhaust
for £60 and made do with seconds and ali sheet for the body at a cost of £150 or so. Already this has brought the budget down to around £4k. If I had
also bought a part finished kit, rather than buying new I recon I could have easily saved another £500-800. So you are looking at £3.5k for a decent
car.
The point I am trying to make is that you can save money in lots of areas, as long as you dont want the best of everything straight away. Remember you
can always upgrade at a later date, and its part of the ongoing development of your car.
David
[Edited on 22/5/07 by flak monkey]
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 22/5/07 at 06:45 PM |
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youll have a much better engineered car if you buy a locost or a derivative . 2Bs are slow even with a 2 litre pinto .
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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kit_car_kid06
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| posted on 22/5/07 at 09:49 PM |
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slow in comparison?
it'd still feel quick to me though wont it? i've never driven one before?
im not gonna compete in it so it wouldnt need to be grease lightening straight away - as someone else suggested - i could work my way up?
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Volvorsport
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| posted on 22/5/07 at 10:21 PM |
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in comparison to my road car !!
thats not the point , none of the stuff was ever done properly , buy a locost derivative .
www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus
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PaulBuz
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| posted on 23/5/07 at 11:17 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
It depends what you want.
For 2.5-3k you could scratch build a car, and there are several people on here that have done it to that sort of budget.
The RH tubular frame is appalling from a technical point of view.
The sierra rear end is a heavy lump, and not really 'sports car' design.
Its all about saving money where you can, take my car as an example, because I know it inside out:
Its cost me £5.5k in the spec you see on my site, which is a touch under the average build cost I would say. I know this is well over your budget. But
considering I spent extra money in some areas, like £500 on tuning/rebuilding the engine, £350 on a new set of wheels, £325 on a s/s exhaust and £600+
on full fibreglass. Where in reality i could have stuck the engine straight in, at a cost of £30, bought a s/h set of wheels for £50 made an exhaust
for £60 and made do with seconds and ali sheet for the body at a cost of £150 or so. Already this has brought the budget down to around £4k. If I had
also bought a part finished kit, rather than buying new I recon I could have easily saved another £500-800. So you are looking at £3.5k for a decent
car.
The point I am trying to make is that you can save money in lots of areas, as long as you dont want the best of everything straight away. Remember you
can always upgrade at a later date, and its part of the ongoing development of your car.
David
[Edited on 22/5/07 by flak monkey]
Well said David!
You echo my sentiments exactly.
If this path is followed you will have a unique car that YOU built, to YOUR specification...Go for it ..you know you want to!!
ATB
Paul
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kit_car_kid06
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| posted on 23/5/07 at 01:01 PM |
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You mean its possible to find and buy a part built locost for £2-2.5k and then only need to spend £1-1.5k on finishing it and getting it decent?
Is that possible?!
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flak monkey
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| posted on 23/5/07 at 01:10 PM |
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You can pick up a part built one for less than that. Probably more like £1.5-2k. With all the major parts you need.
Its all about knowing where to look for parts and being patient enough to wait for some at the right price.
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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akumabito
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| posted on 23/5/07 at 01:58 PM |
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You can have it perfect
You can have it quick
You can have it cheap
Although you have to make your choices wisely, because you can only have two out of three..
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kit_car_kid06
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 posted on 23/5/07 at 02:19 PM |
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Where would you suggest to look?
I've kept my eye on local papers, looked through ebay countless times (although from experience, some items seem to be more expensive on ebay) -
even bought a kit car magazine some time ago but no joy.....
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