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Author: Subject: Pipe freeze spray central heating
steve m

posted on 30/8/20 at 09:22 AM Reply With Quote
Pipe freeze spray central heating

Hi all

Does the Pipe freeze spray work ?
As this year ive flushed out all of the central heating system, several times, and dont want to do it again !!"

Problem is, that the main radiator in the lounge, one of the trv.s is leaking, and also i believe stuck in the closed position,

Just wondered if any one has successfully used the spray freeze spray, so that i could change the valve ?

steve





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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Deckman001

posted on 30/8/20 at 10:05 AM Reply With Quote
Hi Steve, I've done it twice, with a 50/50 result. preparation is the key, and it will work even better if done near a bend or joint to give the ice something to stick to.

Jason

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Mr Whippy

posted on 30/8/20 at 10:07 AM Reply With Quote
Yes it does work, I have used it in the past but is kinda expensive for what it is. Fitting a small ball valve below the thermostat and one on the other valve removes the need for it and costs very little. Funny enough I have just bleed my system this morning and have just fired up the stove to check it out. That time of year...

I flush the system by connecting a hose fitting to the furthest away radiator top blanking plug with a hose to the toilet and then opening the thermostat. Done in no time.

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Dingz

posted on 30/8/20 at 10:34 AM Reply With Quote
Yes I have done it a couple of times, just make sure you have a spare can of spray on standby in case something goes wrong!





Phoned the local ramblers club today, but the bloke who answered just
went on and on.

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perksy

posted on 30/8/20 at 11:54 AM Reply With Quote
Its does work and as said above its better on an elbow bend if you can
We use it at work for a quick repair to save getting the portable freezer kit out

Some folks also use bread stuffed into the pipe but I'd go with the freeze spray

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SteveWalker

posted on 30/8/20 at 12:53 PM Reply With Quote
In the past I've just gone for moving anything that might be damaged or stained out of the way; draining the radiator (should be possible if the valve is stuck closed); then having a new valve, short stub of pipe and straight coupling ready assembled; cutting the pipe and fitting the new assembly rapidly - compression fitting works, push-fit is even easier.

However, one method that I have not yet tried, but have heard good reports about is for sealed systems, release the pressure and for vented systems, put corks in the header tank outlet and vent pipes. Either should mean that breaking open a connection allows a little out, but then the rest is kept in due to a vacuum - probably good to bleed all the radiators before doing any of that though as the gas will expand otherwise.

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steve m

posted on 30/8/20 at 03:49 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for the response, i will give it some thought,

The reason for draining the system earlier in the year, was that this rad, a very big one !! and the furthest away from the boiler and pump,
over last winter was cold, no matter what, and the whole room really did need this rad,
any way, i drained the system down, and got sludge out, and thought that would be the end of my problems

Ive managed to free the valve off, a bit, with a hammer so water is flowing, and the rad is getting warm ish, at the top,
but cold at the bottom, so i am presuming its still got sludge in the rad, so i think i am back to draining the system AGAIN,
But now flushing in the other direction, something i should of done earlier !!

steve





Thats was probably spelt wrong, or had some grammer, that the "grammer police have to have a moan at




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MikeR
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posted on 30/8/20 at 04:49 PM Reply With Quote
One related words of caution. I had a radiator I could never get warm. Eventually I replaced the window it was under with patio doors. As part of taking the pipe work back and fitting a vertical radiator I removed pipe work. Doing that I found a pipe 90+% blocked. Quick blast of an air line fired some crud out of the removed pipework and into a bucket. Are you certain the pipes not blocked?
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perksy

posted on 30/8/20 at 07:47 PM Reply With Quote
Run with Sentinel XT400 in the system for a fortnight, then drain (and watch all the crap come out) and refill using Sentinel XT100 to protect the system going forward
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paulf

posted on 30/8/20 at 08:49 PM Reply With Quote
I fitted a ball valve in the vent pipe and another in the pipe from header tank to system, now i can turn them off and remove a rad and only lose the water in the rad,very little leaks from the pipework.

quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker

However, one method that I have not yet tried, but have heard good reports about is for sealed systems, release the pressure and for vented systems, put corks in the header tank outlet and vent pipes. Either should mean that breaking open a connection allows a little out, but then the rest is kept in due to a vacuum - probably good to bleed all the radiators before doing any of that though as the gas will expand otherwise.

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