mcerd1
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| posted on 17/10/11 at 01:01 PM |
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New Garage (again) - update & blockwork/concrete questions
first off a wee update - I have a new shed to build my Dax in 
 
New_Shed
but first I need to sort out the floor.....
the plan is to break out the worst bits of whats there now, build a wall round the side about 1ft high (or 1 block high) and then pour concrete to
level it
but I've no idea which type of blocks will work out cheapest, what size(s) they are / how many I need to buy 
the perimiter thats needing blocks is about 22m long
similarly with the floor I think I'm looking at 12m x 6.4m about ~4" deep + a ramp out side (so say roughly 10 - 12m cube)
mixing it isn't an issue as we've got almost unlimited acsess to a couple of big mixers, but as to what kind of mix and how much cement,
etc.. I've not got a clue
any thoughts ?
cheers
-Robert
[Edited on 17/10/2011 by mcerd1]
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nick205
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| posted on 17/10/11 at 01:09 PM |
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First thoughts...
You'll need to backfill the site with crushed concrete or similar to arrive at a sensible depth of concrete floor.
ETA...just re-read 4" and not 4' which makes more sense 
You might need to consider reinforcing the floor with wire mesh (rebar?)
You might need to consider sections of floor with expansion joints between
You'll need to use a mix on-site or ready mix service to get it down in one go (or mix like bloody madmen with normal concrete mixers)
ETA2...Damp proof membrane!
[Edited on 17/10/11 by nick205]
[Edited on 17/10/11 by nick205]
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v8kid
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| posted on 17/10/11 at 01:17 PM |
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12 cube is a lot of concrete to shift - approx 300 barrowloads.
If you do it in 4 sections it will make it easier and as a bonus you will have 3 expansion joints.
At this stage it is worth a lot to make sure it is level and plane - sounds easy but it 'aint if you have not done it before. You will also need
shuttering and to make it really level metal shuttering is a must. I would recommend hiring power tools for laying the concrete
It is not going to be cheap 
Cheers!
You'd be surprised how quickly the sales people at B&Q try and assist you after ignoring you for the past 15 minutes when you try and start a
chainsaw
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mcerd1
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| posted on 17/10/11 at 02:38 PM |
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cheers guys
the concrete will be getting done in sections, but they'll just be inbetween the existing bits, so we're talking about 4 or 5 sections -
we probably should use some expansion joint stuff - any thoughts on the cheapest easiest way to do this ?
we've got loads of stuff to use as bottoming and a wacker to make sure its nice an compact
probably should put in a layer of mesh but it won't happen - cost is a bit issue here and the floor doesn't need to be perfect
a damp proof membrane would be nice but there isn't much point as about 1/3 of the floor is existig without it (seems fine despite the lack of
it and thats after 70+ years)
we've got a couple of mixers here already (big tractor driven things) so it'll all be getting mixed by us on site
quote:
Originally posted by nick205
ETA...just re-read 4" and not 4' which makes more sense
just relised I've mixed feet, inches, metres and mm - mybe I should throw in a few cubits and rods for good measure lol
[Edited on 17/10/2011 by mcerd1]
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fishywick
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| posted on 17/10/11 at 02:47 PM |
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The cheapest blocks are usually dense concrete 440mm x 215mm x 100mm, 70 - 80 in a full pallet pack. 70p each plus?
If the wall is only 300mm high it might be easier to build it off the concrete raft ie. make the floor a little deeper and thicker at the
perimeter.
As others have said, think carefully about mixing yourself, apart from being hard work the price difference is not as much as you may imagine. £80 per
cu m? If you're buying the gravel etc in bulk bags then it's not worth it, if you have a cheap quarry supply then maybe.
Expansion joints can be more or less any timber, the correct stuff is a sort of fibre board 12mm ish.
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