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Author: Subject: Ford Pinto alternative carburettor
xico_ze54

posted on 14/10/19 at 04:18 PM Reply With Quote
Ford Pinto alternative carburettor

hi all

I have a problem with my Pinto engine 2.0 or 1.8 (can't be sure) the car is a 1.8, the engine has a 205 block and is a NE code.

so the problem is a bad idle, though it starts good and runs very well, but at low RPM the idle is bad or in cold it just stals if no throttle is given.

with it hot, the idle stands and a strange thing occours: if I take off the ignition lead #4 it still running the in same way (I think in 3 cylinders), but no problem with lead or spark plug, because I have a device that shows the spark passes through and I put new spark plugs of recommended type.

I concluded that the engine in low RPM works in 3 cylinders, but when throttle is given it runs like everything is well. so can be something about gasoline distribution?

so I read about problems in the carburettor electronics (Weber 30-34 DFTH 3A1) and in fact I saw someone has took off the cover of that carb part who has the large socket to ECU.

in a way to not have many try and error checks and spend money for nothing, does it have some kind of carburettor that eliminates all the electronics and automatic choke?

thanks in advance
Amadeu





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chris

posted on 14/10/19 at 05:53 PM Reply With Quote
firstly if your block has 205 stamped on it i am quite sure its a 2ltr as for your carb problem i have similar probs with mine so the carb is going and bike carbs will be going on i have fitted bike carbs to another pinto engine and the difference was very obvious in a good way
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rusty nuts

posted on 14/10/19 at 05:55 PM Reply With Quote
If no 4 cylinder isnt firing and you have eliminated the spark plug and HT lead I would suggest checking and adjusting the valve clearances when the engine is cold followed by a compression check with the engine hot . If the compression is low then squirt some oil into the cylinder and recheck , if the compression is increased by more than about 20% the piston/rings and bore may be worn . If no increase on a low compression the valves are not sealing. If compressions are all OK check for air leaks on the inlet manifold with the engine running by spraying something like WD40 around any suspect areas, if the idle speed increases you have an air leak. Replacing the carb is unlikely to cure a misfire
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SteveWalker

posted on 14/10/19 at 09:07 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by chris
firstly if your block has 205 stamped on it i am quite sure its a 2ltr as for your carb problem i have similar probs with mine so the carb is going and bike carbs will be going on i have fitted bike carbs to another pinto engine and the difference was very obvious in a good way


The 1.8 was an underbored 2.0 block. When they were short of castings with 1.8 in, they simply used 2.0 ones. The Sierra I used to own had just such an engine - and it was definitely a 1.8, as I stripped and rebuilt it at a high mileage.

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xico_ze54

posted on 14/10/19 at 09:26 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by SteveWalker
quote:
Originally posted by chris
firstly if your block has 205 stamped on it i am quite sure its a 2ltr as for your carb problem i have similar probs with mine so the carb is going and bike carbs will be going on i have fitted bike carbs to another pinto engine and the difference was very obvious in a good way


The 1.8 was an underbored 2.0 block. When they were short of castings with 1.8 in, they simply used 2.0 ones. The Sierra I used to own had just such an engine - and it was definitely a 1.8, as I stripped and rebuilt it at a high mileage.


and the NE engraved mark on the block rear upper right (near one of the fastening screws to bellhousing) doesn't mean nothing? by a certain table, 2.0 engines had marked NA/NR/N4 among others N something. 1.8 engines had marked RE and R2. so, where is the true story about those 205 blocks in 1.8 cars? and my car has matching numbers.






[Edited on 14/10/19 by xico_ze54]

[Edited on 14/10/19 by xico_ze54]





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