Its that time of year again....
Putting the car ready to go testing, grabbed hold of the front prop and it wobbled.... loose prop adapter! If you haven't checked it for a while
it's easy to check and probably worth doing.
Il second that! Mine nearly came off recently
Is that a BEC?
Mine is on thread loco and lock tab fully torqued. Will check after testing
Ideally what you want if there is space, is a proper motorcycle washer that engages onto the spline and then the end gets hammered up onto the nut to
stop it spinning off, the same as would have been on the front sprocket when the engine was originally in a bike.
I think the reason most dont have these is because the prop adaptors are to deep to allow one to fit onto the spline.
quote:
Originally posted by chrism
Ideally what you want if there is space, is a proper motorcycle washer that engages onto the spline and then the end gets hammered up onto the nut to stop it spinning off, the same as would have been on the front sprocket when the engine was originally in a bike.
I think the reason most dont have these is because the prop adaptors are to deep to allow one to fit onto the spline.
So what exactly fails. The nut holding to the gearbox or the adapter to the drive shaft?
Mine is nyloc nut, Nyloc nuts are only meant to be used once for maximum security, alternatively, clean the thread so its grease free, and use Loctite, If it needs to come off again I would use threadloc, if its unlikely to need to be removed again use studloc.
Personally I'd use a better locking combination if you're finding it loosening, if it's a single nut I'd be using a pair and locking off against each other or drilling and wiring the outer edge of the nut depending on load conditions.
i read this thread a while back, and decided to give my prop a wobble the other day, all four bolts loose!
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Personally I'd use a better locking combination if you're finding it loosening, if it's a single nut I'd be using a pair and locking off against each other or drilling and wiring the outer edge of the nut depending on load conditions.
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Personally I'd use a better locking combination if you're finding it loosening, if it's a single nut I'd be using a pair and locking off against each other or drilling and wiring the outer edge of the nut depending on load conditions.
Unfortunately you can do neither with the nut on a bike engine output shaft. You can barely bend over the tabs on the locking washer, and the nut leaves no spare thread.
quote:
Originally posted by sdh2903
quote:
Originally posted by 40inches
quote:
Originally posted by coyoteboy
Personally I'd use a better locking combination if you're finding it loosening, if it's a single nut I'd be using a pair and locking off against each other or drilling and wiring the outer edge of the nut depending on load conditions.
Unfortunately you can do neither with the nut on a bike engine output shaft. You can barely bend over the tabs on the locking washer, and the nut leaves no spare thread.
Yes you can. Small hole drilled in nut, small hole in adapter, wirelock and voila fit and forget. I also wirelocked all my prop bolts and reverse box bolts. Mr IVA man was very impressed. Engine was a 98 R1.
why not drill a 3mm thread in the side and screw a grub screw with locktight to hold it
i just used thread lock on mine - never had issue - make sure you degrease the threads first tho with something like thinners or something that will evaporate. then threadlock
I've had my adapter come loose at 70 mph which did a lot of damage.
I'm paranoid now and check the bolts religiously.
I paint a small creep line across each bolt to help with a quick visual check for peace of mind along with the usual thread lock etc.