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| posted on 16/4/04 at 12:56 AM |
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Adaptor plate
Has anybody ever made an engine-to-gearbox adaptor plate and if so would you mind jotting down a list of what to do in what order. It doesnt have to
be a "get a scriber and ensure it is sharp, If not use a..... " sort of thing just a few points to give me an idea. I am trying to see how
difficult it will be to join a Citroen 16v engine to an MT75 gearbox. My current idea was to strip the fwd gearbox from the Citroen to leave me with
an empty casting (done already), cut the mounting flange off the front of the casing and attach it to the MT75, either by welding or bolting (if this
is an option). If I can't do it this way the I'd use the gearbox casing as a template and scribe the pattern onto a sheet of ali and then
get this welded onto the gearbox casing. My main concern is getting the adaptor accurately fitted onto the gearbox so that everything is nice
and concentric. The main advantage to using the old casing (if I do) is that the crank angle sensor bolts into it and will be corrctly positioned. My
thinking at the moment is to remove the flywheel from the engine, make up an adaptor to fit the centre of the flywheel to replicate the crank centre,
set the gearbox upright, pop the cut-off mounting flange over the top of the tranny and then drop the flywheel onto the 'box input shaft.
Carefully ensure that the flange is equdistant from the flywheel and at the correct angle of dangle and then carefully mark where it aligns with the
gearbox casing, or just clamp it in position. Once this is done and assuming no metal needs to be removed from the existing casing to make the gearbox
input shaft engage properly with the crankshaft, tote this combo round to my local friendly chapies who are skilled in these arts and get them to
stick it together. Please feel free to shoot htis plan full of holes if you can see that it is utter shyte, or offer constructive criticism/ an
alternative method if not. Final alternative, if you know of a company near-ish to Peterborough who woul dundertake this work and not charge a kings
ransom for it can you let me know please? 
P.S.I could always just stick with the Zetec the chassis came with which is already bolted to the MT75 but I like making my life difficult and being
bloody-minded when I hear the words 'it can't be done'!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 16/4/04 at 07:01 AM |
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Just to add another complication to your dilemma!! You can buy an off the shelf bellhousing to attach the Citroen/Peugeot 16v to the type 9 ford
'box, and obviously gearkits etc are easier to get for the type 9, just a thought!
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NS Dev
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| posted on 16/4/04 at 07:02 AM |
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PS nice engine to put in a seven by the way!
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Browser
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| posted on 16/4/04 at 07:06 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by NS Dev
Just to add another complication to your dilemma!! You can buy an off the shelf bellhousing to attach the Citroen/Peugeot 16v to the type 9 ford
'box, and obviously gearkits etc are easier to get for the type 9, just a thought!
If you can tell me where Nev I'd be a happy man! Flowtech used to do them but they ceased trading about 2 years ago and I have singularly failed
to locate another supplier. Do you know of one?
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 16/4/04 at 08:10 AM |
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IIRC someone posted a contact a while back for a bloke who will make up any adaptor you want... may be worth a search of the archives......
Dave
"In Support of Help the Heroes" - Always
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ned
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| posted on 16/4/04 at 08:55 AM |
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timf posted up that contact iirc..
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
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WIMMERA
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| posted on 16/4/04 at 12:31 PM |
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I joined a Pug 504 engine to a T50 Toyota box by cutting both bell housings in half, squared up the cut ends of the Pug front and Toy rear in the
lathe, bolted front half to spare block with crank fitted, clamped a test indicator to crank, clamped the Toy rear half to the Pug front half with a
large 6mm ali washer in between ,trued the back half up with the test indicator running on the machined register for the clutch throw out bearing
guide then welded both halves to the washer, then back into the lathe for a light lick to clean up the ends , then back onto the block to check, thats
a very quick description, obviously a lot of measuring required before starting, I think a Cit/MI16 engine would be well worth the trouble, hope this
helps I have a couple of pics but don't know how to post them.
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