Rob Allison
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| posted on 18/1/16 at 05:43 PM |
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I'm not on about an oil cooler. The zetec requires heated oil. It should have one of these fitted
 [/URL]
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big_wasa
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| posted on 18/1/16 at 07:16 PM |
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So that's the Modine style heat exchange as found on the st170.
It's job is to bring the oil up to temp quicker for emission purposes.
How would it help with the water rail ? Genuine question......
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 18/1/16 at 07:25 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Rob Allison
I'm not on about an oil cooler. The zetec requires heated oil. It should have one of these fitted
Well I can honestly say I have never seen one fitted or heard of one being fitted to a Seven before. Ford did not fit one to the Mondeo Zetec I used
in the car when I first converted so whats changed.
I suspect as Big Wasa suggests its fitted to the ST170 for emission purposes. Since those rules don't apply to sevens its an unnecessary
complication. Just keep the revs down until the oil warms up a bit and make sure you use a good quality oil of the correct viscosity.
There would be a huge problem for me if it was really required, there is no space to fit fit one.
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GRBBONGO
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| posted on 19/1/16 at 10:02 AM |
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<a href="http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/grbbongo/media/image_zpsswszuqab.jpeg.html" target="_blank"><img
src="http://i1379.photobucket.com/albums/ah128/grbbongo/image_zpsswszuqab.jpeg" border="0" alt=" photo
image_zpsswszuqab.jpeg"/></a>
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Rob Allison
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| posted on 26/1/16 at 01:32 AM |
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I have tried to find a good lay out of the zetecs cooling system and the way it works but cant find any.
So this is the basic explanation. The zetec is a tight tolerance modern engine which has to warm up quickly. This is done by allowing the cooling
water to only circulate around a small system. This is split in 2 parts. One is the engine, oil and heater matrix the other is the radiator. But the
oil and heater matrix part are split too.
If you look at a zetec thermostat you will see an extra disc on its base. This closes off the heater side until the oil side is warm. So from cold the
water will flow around the engine only. Once warm it will flow to the heater matrix. Then next to the radiator.
If you have a water rail which does not allow the water to flow around the engine it will get localised heating and can boil the water within the head
due to no cooling flow.
When the stat finally gets warm enough to open there is higher pressure boiled water that then passes through the rad and expansion tank. Thats when
you get it boiling over. Drilling holes in the stat doesnt help as it then has a bypass route and doesnt warm up quick as the hole cooling system is
being circulated.
Now with water rails you need the flow to pass near the stat or it will just stay closed until heat eventually gets to it and it opens. Again very hot
boiled water passes through to the rad.
The better water rails will have a water take off point near the stat base so the stat will always be in a good flow of the cooling water. That take
off need to flow around the engine how ever you pipe it is up to you. Either through an oil modine or car heater matrix. But you can just deadhead it,
it need to get pumped around somewhere.
I dont think it has anything to do with emmissions. The ST170 deals with emmissions by the VCT system
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Paul Turner
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| posted on 26/1/16 at 09:44 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Rob Allison
I have tried to find a good lay out of the zetecs cooling system and the way it works but cant find any.
This is how mine is plumbed in and has been since 2001.
 
It uses the standard Ford stat housing but I don't have a heater, the outlet in the stat housing is blanked off and when I made the bypass pipe
I did not put a heater union on the end. The layout of the pipework replicates exactly what the pipework in a Mondeo does. It works perfectly, no
overheating, no overcooling, no airlocks. Refilling is easy.
The stat is different to old fashioned stats in that it has the extra disc. When the engine is cold and the main stat is closed this disc effectively
is open and allows water to circulate around the engine preventing hot spots and helping the engine heat up quicker. As the main stat opens the disc
closes which allows water to circulate round the radiator. I normal use the engine temp is regulated to some extent by water circulating via both the
main and disc, the disc only closes the bypass circuit when the stat is fully open which is above normal engine operating temp.
In the Mondeo/Focus water flows via the heater and bypass during the initial warm up phase which helps heat the car up quicker.
In contrast if you use the Raceline Water Rail the stat used is the old fashioned type. When its closed there is no flow unless you have a heater and
even then there is the issue that the stat is at the end of a dead leg and relies on the conduction of heat through the water to start opening the
stat which eventually happens very suddenly. This is not good for the engine as it allows a sudden flow of cold water form the rad to circulate into a
very hot engine and can cause issues down the line if not immediately. The Raceline solution is to drill additional holes in the stat to allow flow
during warm up and whilst this no doubt helps it is not the way the old fashioned stats were designed to work. The same stat in a x-flow or Pinto is
virtually in the head, not at the end of a dead leg thus it received hot water progressively as the engine heated up.
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GRBBONGO
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| posted on 26/1/16 at 10:14 AM |
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GRBBONGO
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| posted on 26/1/16 at 10:15 AM |
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GRBBONGO
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| posted on 26/1/16 at 10:27 AM |
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Unable to copy and paste the instructions from the Westfield newsletter but pretty straight forward as shown above with no heater. Ignore the Stant
cap cover, this is a sealed type cap with no pressure release. This system relies on the pressure cap of the expansion tank which should be higher
than the thermostat if possible.
Temp comes up quite quickly from cold start and remains pretty stable between 85-95 degrees.
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Rena
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| posted on 15/2/16 at 10:10 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by GRBBONGO
Unable to copy and paste the instructions from the Westfield newsletter but pretty straight forward as shown above with no heater. Ignore the Stant
cap cover, this is a sealed type cap with no pressure release. This system relies on the pressure cap of the expansion tank which should be higher
than the thermostat if possible.
Temp comes up quite quickly from cold start and remains pretty stable between 85-95 degrees.
Which thermostat are you using? With or without bypass valve? Hole in the thermostat rim?
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