scudderfish
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| posted on 22/4/17 at 11:29 AM |
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"I know, I'll change the starter motor. That should be easy"
The V8 in my Fisher Fury is reluctant to start, the starter motor which originated on a 1984 Rover SD1 struggles to spin the engine with any true
vigour so I thought I'd treat it to a new geared hi-torque motor. After getting the front jacked up and on stands I remembered how much I hate
working under cars, verging on a phobia; but my shiny new motor isn't going to fit itself so I must crack on. Clutch slave cylinder is in the
way so I take that off and get filthy as my car isn't exactly oil tight. I like to think of it as an automatic corrosion inhibitor system. In
order to actually get to the bolts holding the motor in, I need three extensions on the socket to get past the exhaust headers. Of course the bolt
that is hardest to access is also a cap head bolt so I cut down a 5/16th allen key, fit that into a socket and then into the bolt.
The motor drops free and hits a chassis rail. In front of it is an engine mount. It is between the engine and the exhaust headers. It is caged.
Bugger. It's at this point that I remember that the last time I fiddled with the starter, the engine wasn't in the car. I think if I
drop the sump I may be able to wiggle it out, but I'm not looking forward to that or fighting with several kilos of filthy starter motor inches
above my face. I bet the new one isn't going to fit either. It's times like this that I envy people who fit bike engines to these cars
as the access must be insanely easy.
[Edited on 22/4/17 by scudderfish]
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Slimy38
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| posted on 22/4/17 at 04:01 PM |
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Many tintops have similar issues, often with much more trivial parts. Headlight bulbs on certain hatchbacks come to mind...
I looked into a random replacement for my Saab, just for the hell of it I had a look what is required to change a water pump. You basically remove
everything from the back of the engine (mainly the turbo and all the other bits), then everything from the right hand side too. And I think the manual
even says that the engine needs to be lifted an inch or two to get the clearance!
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scudderfish
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| posted on 22/4/17 at 05:14 PM |
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To change the starter motor, first remove the car from the starter motor 
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 23/4/17 at 06:45 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38
Many tintops have similar issues, often with much more trivial parts. Headlight bulbs on certain hatchbacks come to mind...
I looked into a random replacement for my Saab, just for the hell of it I had a look what is required to change a water pump. You basically remove
everything from the back of the engine (mainly the turbo and all the other bits), then everything from the right hand side too. And I think the manual
even says that the engine needs to be lifted an inch or two to get the clearance!
Yep a lot of modern cars you HAVE to remove the front bumper to change a front light bulb. Oh, and THEN remove headlamp to change bulb.
Some range rovers, to change the rear cambelt on the engine, first remove body from chassis. :O
[Edited on 23/4/17 by jollygreengiant]
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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ken555
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| posted on 24/4/17 at 11:04 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by scudderfish
To change the starter motor, first remove the car from the starter motor
I wanted the small alternator off a car in the scrapyard, think it was one of the small Daewoo, spend ages trying to figure out how to. Gave up and
took one off the Suzuki next to it instead.
Went online later to see how to do it as it was annoying me, to find you needed to remove the engine to get it out!
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