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Author: Subject: Fibreglass advice
twybrow

posted on 18/7/12 at 11:47 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by maccmike
a few hundred!! I could do one in cf for that


Not with the tools you couldn't surely!?

I agree with Neville's (or is that Sid?!) costing - these are not cheap things to make. I too work in the trade, and my two piece airbox mould cost about £130 in materials (GF, CF, resin, gelcoat etc) - + a hell of a lot of time and skill.

You need a stiff structure for a mould. Nev's method uses Coremat to add thickness, adn hence stiffness, I used chopped strand matt (CSM) for the same, and built up a number of layers to achieve my required stiffness. Add to that the time and effort for making the original pattern (or buck at the are often known in the US).

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Neville Jones

posted on 18/7/12 at 11:53 AM Reply With Quote
The coremat will transmit any heat easily, where other core materials will insulate. It also is lighter than the traditional many layers of csm and quicker to laminate up to thickness, so means moving the moulds around is a bit easier for an old fart like me!

Cheers,
nev.

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maccmike

posted on 18/7/12 at 12:54 PM Reply With Quote
last time I checked a few hundred was not £200.
Whether Im right or wrong, at least I stick to my convictions, I dont change quotes and prices to suit my argument.

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ChrisLeary

posted on 18/7/12 at 04:04 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by owelly
If you want to make your own moulds just for the hell of it, then go for it. If you think you'll save some time and/or money, buy the mould in the link and add an infil to make it wider. You could widen it with wood if need be!


From my original post, ' making moulds for the hell of it,' was never what I had in mind, I asked for some advice as to the materials I'd need if I chose to make a nose cone mould. If you took the time to read my other posts in this thread, the problem is NOT the width, it is how the nose fits onto the top chassis rail, so even if I bought the mould you linked to I'd have to hack it about to make the final part fit anyway.

I wanted to learn a new skill, not do something for the hell of it.

Thanks everyone for the replies, if there's one thing I've learnt, its how much prices differ between suppliers! Oh, and that making grp parts really isn't worth the hassle.

Cheers again,

Chris

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owelly

posted on 18/7/12 at 04:15 PM Reply With Quote
I did read your post and still maintain that having seen the mould in question, which is in several parts, modifying it would be quicker, cheaper and easier than starting from scratch.





http://www.ppcmag.co.uk

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Mave

posted on 18/7/12 at 05:58 PM Reply With Quote
Go ahead, and just do it. I've done it as well, twice. Learned a lot along the way. Look in my archive for some pics of buck and final nose (before and after painting). It is a lot of work, and do invest much time in the buck. It will pay off. My mould was made in two pieces. For the mould I used three layers of 300 grams CSM, which is stiff enough for a mould that will only be used a few times. The nose itself is 200 woven cloth on inside and outside, and two layers of 300 gram CSM in between. It now light and strong, and unique!

Don't do it if you think you will save money, do it because you want to do it, and end up with something unique which fits your car. I have an MK Indy, and I could easily have bought the bodywork, but I decided I didn't like the styling, so made all panels myself. Very often I hit my head against the wall for being so stubborn, but now it's finished I'm over the moon.

New nose 5
New nose 5

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maccmike

posted on 18/7/12 at 07:46 PM Reply With Quote
looks wonderful that
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ChrisLeary

posted on 18/7/12 at 09:05 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mave
Go ahead, and just do it. I've done it as well, twice. Learned a lot along the way. Look in my archive for some pics of buck and final nose (before and after painting). It is a lot of work, and do invest much time in the buck. It will pay off. My mould was made in two pieces. For the mould I used three layers of 300 grams CSM, which is stiff enough for a mould that will only be used a few times. The nose itself is 200 woven cloth on inside and outside, and two layers of 300 gram CSM in between. It now light and strong, and unique!

Don't do it if you think you will save money, do it because you want to do it, and end up with something unique which fits your car. I have an MK Indy, and I could easily have bought the bodywork, but I decided I didn't like the styling, so made all panels myself. Very often I hit my head against the wall for being so stubborn, but now it's finished I'm over the moon.

New nose 5
New nose 5



Your nose cone looks fantastic. I'll be in touch for some advice if you don't mind.

Regards,
Chris

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Mave

posted on 19/7/12 at 05:03 PM Reply With Quote
No problem, just ask.

Cheers,
Marcel

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