britishtrident
|
| posted on 3/4/04 at 04:13 PM |
|
|
Cleaning parts
I picked up this way of cleaning the rust off of steel parts last year but didn't try it until recently.
What you need : Plastic bucket, bit of steel scrap, 12 volt battery, washing/caustic soda,, some wire, crocodile clips 12 volt bulb and holder.
I always do this outside ---- to prevent gas building up.
(1) Wire brush rust offf and degrease the rusted part as much as possible, clean a small area enough to get a good electrical connection.
(2) In a plastic bucket disovle washing/caustic soda crystals in to make a strong solution. (I use a plastic stacking crate)
(3) at one side of the bucket clip a bit of clean scrap steel/iron -- a spare bit of 25x25 rhs is ideal.
(4) At the other side of the bucket clip the part to be cleaned.
(5) Connect the part to be cleaned to the negative side of a battery making it the cathode.
(6) Connect the scrap iron to the + side of the battery through a 12 volt bulb (the bulb is to control the current) , the scrap iron then becomes the
anode.
(7) You should see bubbling action around the electrodes -- if the cathode is badly corroded and has a thick scale it may take a time to start.
After a time ( length of depends on the degree of corrosion of the part) remove the part and the rust will have been removed.
[Edited on 3/4/04 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 3/4/04 by britishtrident]
[Edited on 3/4/04 by britishtrident]
|
|
|
|
|
phelpsa
|
| posted on 3/4/04 at 04:22 PM |
|
|
Interesting
DANGEROUS
but interesting
|
|
|
Ian Pearson
|
| posted on 3/4/04 at 08:00 PM |
|
|
I think that this may have been covered here:
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=9158
|
|
|
Hellfire
|
| posted on 3/4/04 at 10:14 PM |
|
|
Be very careful with the gas produced, it's no odour and flammable. I believe the gas produced it pure hydrogen! Any source of ignition and
it'll go with a bang you won't witness again! 
|
|
|
craig1410
|
| posted on 3/4/04 at 11:07 PM |
|
|
Yes this caused a bit of excitement back at the end of last year but please read
this thread as there is a big safety issue surrounding the use of stainless steel
as the anode.
By the way the warning about hydrogen is valid but fortunately hydrogen disperses (rises) very quickly as long as you have adequate ventilation. Just
make sure you turn off the power before unclipping the crocodile clips to avoid a spark. Best to use a power supply rather than a battery as it is
easier to turn off. If using a battery then site the battery as far away from the bucket as possible and disconnect from the battery end first.
Cheers,
Craig.
|
|
|
fujioko
|
| posted on 5/4/04 at 09:23 AM |
|
|
Very interesting!
I use a bucket of “white vinegar” to clean the rust off my parts. This is especially handy for cleaning motorcycle petrol tanks. The vinegar takes
about 4 days to clean a heavily rusted tank .
Vinegar is also handy to remove galvanized coating on fasteners or other parts.
Hope that helps!
Jim
|
|
|
David Jenkins
|
| posted on 5/4/04 at 09:59 AM |
|
|
Vinegar works even better if you throw a quantity of salt into the tub - don't ask me what the chemistry is ('cos I don't know!) but
it's great for removing black mill scale from steel, as well as rust.
Downside is that it will rust very quickly if you don't rinse and dry it ASAP after you've finished.
David
|
|
|
craig1410
|
| posted on 5/4/04 at 07:00 PM |
|
|
I use the electrolysis method for heavy rust and paint removal as it is fast and avoids having to chip and scrape the rust off but I also use a
phosphoric acid cleaner called "Adamatic Descaler" for cleaning light rust on fasteners etc. You can also use this for cleaning
aluminium.
The electrolysis works really really well for heavy rust and I thoroughly recommend it as long as you stick to mild steel for the anode.
Cheers,
Craig.
|
|
|
